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  #1  
Old January 30th, 2016, 03:18 PM
RBBailey
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Owning a Tdi

OK, so now that I actually have a running 300Tdi that may be coming home in the next 2-3 weeks. (Won't actually be driving for a bit, but I will be running it/getting to know it.)
  1. What type of oil do you all recommend?
  2. What type of oil change interval?
  3. Warm up on a cold start, or no?
  4. Common symptoms to look for?
  5. Bio fuel? What blend? And for any of the east Portland area plebs, where do you get yours?
  6. Anyone using a vegi oil blend of their own? As in filtering, storing, and using?
  7. Common maintenance items that should be looked at on a regular basis?
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  #2  
Old January 30th, 2016, 03:24 PM
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Timing belt needs changing every Three years of 36k! Don't wait past 3 years for the 36k!!!!
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Old January 30th, 2016, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
OK, so now that I actually have a running 300Tdi that may be coming home in the next 2-3 weeks. (Won't actually be driving for a bit, but I will be running it/getting to know it.)
  1. What type of oil do you all recommend?
  2. What type of oil change interval?
  3. Warm up on a cold start, or no?
  4. Common symptoms to look for?
  5. Bio fuel? What blend? And for any of the east Portland area plebs, where do you get yours?
  6. Anyone using a vegi oil blend of their own? As in filtering, storing, and using?
  7. Common maintenance items that should be looked at on a regular basis?

forget all those questions. STEP ONE: FIND A LOCAL OR NEARBY MECHANIC THAT KNOWS ROVER TDI'S AND KNOWS WTF HE'S DOING.

Do not wait for something to go wrong. If you are not located near a Rover knowledge center (aka Indy Rover shop with TDI experience), this would be my biggest concern.

In Africa, every corner mechanic knows Rover TDI's. In the US, if it doesn't have an OBD port, they don't want to touch it.

I'm giving you chapter 3 of my life memoirs pre-publication.
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  #4  
Old January 30th, 2016, 03:30 PM
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forget all those questions. STEP ONE: FIND A LOCAL OR NEARBY MECHANIC THAT KNOWS ROVER TDI'S AND KNOWS WTF HE'S DOING.
Yes, that is done. Which is why I am not doing the actual install myself. I want it to be done, set, running right from day one. If I need the pro, I know where to go.
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  #5  
Old January 30th, 2016, 03:40 PM
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What type of oil do you all recommend? - I use Amsoil diesel oil, 15w-40
What type of oil change interval? 5k miles
Warm up on a cold start, or no? If it's really cold I'll run the glow plugs twice, I don't let it idle because it won't get warm under 30
Common symptoms to look for? oil consumption, coolant consumption
Bio fuel? What blend? And for any of the east Portland area plebs, where do you get yours? I don't
Anyone using a vegi oil blend of their own? As in filtering, storing, and using? I don't
Common maintenance items that should be looked at on a regular basis? P gasket, doing valves, timing, oil changes
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:03 PM
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Run a search for Oil Analysis and Blackstone Labs on the forum. I recommend you do an oil analysis on the old oil the 2nd time you change the oil. Great way to get to know the engine. I went 7300 miles between oil changes last time. Mostly because Blackstone labs report recommended it. According my old report, my engine is very happy and loving the lubricating & solvent effect of the biodiesel. I use Mobil 1 Diesel Truck oil.

Running a cold engine to warm it up is a no-no according to recent articles and a discussion here on the forum. It's bad for the engine and it'll take forever to warm up by idle. If you're looking to warm it up get a Webasto Thermotop C, a block heater or an oil pan heater.

Jays Garage in SE has Biodiesel. B99 in the summer and B50 in the winter. Personally I don't think veggie oil is worth the effort. Lots of mods required to make it work properly. No mods required for biodiesel if you already have synthetic hoses. Lots of good threads on the forum related to 300tdi maintenance and performance improvements as well.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:24 PM
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Just say no to biodiesel. A bad batch of bio is what International claims made my first HS2.8 a boat anchor. I will never touch the stuff. I still believe it was the front crank seal as Johan at Prins in Norway believed as well.

It won't warm up idling. But I idle 30 seconds to a minute to make sure oil has filled all the oil galleys and reached all moving parts especially the turbo.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
  1. What type of oil do you all recommend?
    Good quality oil, viscosity depending of where you live (I use 10W40)
  2. What type of oil change interval?
    As recommended, I change mine every 10K kilometers.
  3. Warm up on a cold start, or no?
    A minute or two until it stops shaking itself, then slowly drive away.
Keep the timing belt in check.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:46 PM
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Well, that's just bad advice. What do you know about the bio fuel quality in Oregon? We have one of the best bio refineries in the country here; Sequential Fuels. No bad batches. As I said, I've run B99 and B50 for the past 8 years with zero issues. I even ran it with Biodiesel that my father-in-law made, with no issues. Frankly, It's not rocket science to make so I wonder how bad you have to be at it in order to make a bad batch. Did you even confirm that the issues you had were caused by biodiesel? What blend were you using? Are you suggesting it destroyed the crank seal? I must be missing something because I don't see how biodiesel could be the primary cause of catastrophic engine failure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
Just say no to biodiesel. A bad batch of bio is what International claims made my first HS2.8 a boat anchor. I will never touch the stuff. I still believe it was the front crank seal as Johan at Prins in Norway believed as well. It won't warm up idling. But I idle 30 seconds to a minute to make sure oil has filled all the oil galleys and reached all moving parts especially the turbo.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:55 PM
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All diesel sold in Oregon has a minimum of 5% biodiesel in it.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:56 PM
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Just say no to biodiesel. A bad batch of bio is what International claims made my first HS2.8 a boat anchor.
Wow. Somebody scammed you badly.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:57 PM
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Am I wrong, or is "veg oil" different from B99 basically because of the filtering/purifying process?

Fuel -- wish one of these was near me

I'm going with an electric fan for cooling, but I am assuming it will only be used in the summer around here.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 04:58 PM
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3 years on the timing belt?
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:00 PM
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Biodiesel and vegetable oil are completely different things.

To run veg oil you need dual tanks, fuel heaters and a purging system. It is quite complicated to do.

Biodiesel can replace diesel directly. It's only downside is it can damage certain types of seals and fuel lines.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:01 PM
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Looks like for winter, I'd want B20, in the summer a B50 blend?
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Manimal View Post
Well, that's just bad advice. What do you know about the bio fuel quality in Oregon? We have one of the best bio refineries in the country here; Sequential Fuels. No bad batches. As I said, I've run B99 and B50 for the past 8 years with zero issues. I even ran it with Biodiesel that my father-in-law made, with no issues. Frankly, It's not rocket science to make so I wonder how bad you have to be at it in order to make a bad batch. Did you even confirm that the issues you had were caused by biodiesel? What blend were you using? Are you suggesting it destroyed the crank seal? I must be missing something because I don't see how biodiesel could be the primary cause of catastrophic engine failure.
I was abstaining B99 from a place called Ecowise here in Austin. International stated the biodiesel had destroyed the IP causing the bio to leak into the timing belt area deteriorating the belt. The engine grenaded less than a year old and just over 10k miles.

Tear down revealed a misaligned front crank seal causing oil loss as well. That explained my oil consumption.

Anyway, because the manufacturer never certified the engine for more than B20, they used the B99 as valid excuse to successfully void the warranty. Thus I had to eat the entire bill.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Biodiesel and vegetable oil are completely different things.

To run veg oil you need dual tanks, fuel heaters and a purging system. It is quite complicated to do.

Biodiesel can replace diesel directly. It's only downside is it can damage certain types of seals and fuel lines.
Yeah, I get that, I was referring to what they say on that web site I linked about where their B99 comes from: Made from local reclamation of waste cooking oil

I have no plans to install the special equipment to run pure vegi oil in this thing.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:05 PM
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John, out of curiosity, which seals are at risk on a 300tdi?

Ben, any vehicle prior to 1995 will need synthetic fuel lines. Any vehicle after should already have it.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Ouch. Sorry to hear. I can certainly understand your concern based on that experience.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
I was abstaining B99 from a place called Ecowise here in Austin. International stated the biodiesel had destroyed the IP causing the bio to leak into the timing belt area deteriorating the belt. The engine grenaded less than a year old and just over 10k miles. Tear down revealed a misaligned front crank seal causing oil loss as well. That explained my oil consumption. Anyway, because the manufacturer never certified the engine for more than B20, they used the B99 as valid excuse to successfully void the warranty. Thus I had to eat the entire bill.
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Old January 30th, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LuisC View Post
I was abstaining B99 from a place called Ecowise here in Austin. International stated the biodiesel had destroyed the IP causing the bio to leak into the timing belt area deteriorating the belt. The engine grenaded less than a year old and just over 10k miles.

Tear down revealed a misaligned front crank seal causing oil loss as well. That explained my oil consumption.

Anyway, because the manufacturer never certified the engine for more than B20, they used the B99 as valid excuse to successfully void the warranty. Thus I had to eat the entire bill.
...but a manufacturer saying this, is different than it actually being the cause... The fact that they certify for B20 means that they have faith in biodiesel as well. I doubt any manufacturer would certify B99, a simple temperature change can really change the viscosity of that stuff, even if the engine "runs fine" on it under normal circumstances.
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