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  #61  
Old February 4th, 2016, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
Ok, lemme ask madman if we can get a discount for a group buy from d-source members without having it all wrapped up as one shipment--if they say yes, I'll start a new thread called "EMS-2 group buy"
Thanks! I am in for an EMS2 plus Tdi kit.
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  #62  
Old February 4th, 2016, 06:56 PM
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The madman might just the answer for getting outputs due to the lack of dash space (read no dash) on the 101
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  #63  
Old February 5th, 2016, 05:12 PM
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Has a new thread on this been started? It looks like they are out of stock.
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  #64  
Old February 6th, 2016, 12:57 PM
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I didn't write madman too last night, which is of course sometime early Saturday morning in South Africa, so I probably won't hear anything before Monday....
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  #65  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:31 PM
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OK, so madman is figuring out how to give us a discount code for defender source members and make it work with their website. I'm going to start a separate thread in misc chit-chat and will publish discount code info there as soon as I get it.
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  #66  
Old February 11th, 2016, 01:55 PM
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perfect. I'm in
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  #67  
Old February 11th, 2016, 02:05 PM
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Gerad Davis
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Yeah, I guess I'm in too. The Madman seems like a better option than adapting all my old Series gauges to work with the Tdi.
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  #68  
Old February 11th, 2016, 02:31 PM
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Yeah I'm also interested
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  #69  
Old February 14th, 2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjfslaughter View Post
Timing belt needs changing every Three years of 36k! Don't wait past 3 years for the 36k!!!!

Timing belt is 72,000 Imperial miles (116,000kms) or every 6 six years,which ever comes first.





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200tdi Ex British Army 110 Hardtop 139142kms
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  #70  
Old February 14th, 2016, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
OK, so now that I actually have a running 300Tdi that may be coming home in the next 2-3 weeks. (Won't actually be driving for a bit, but I will be running it/getting to know it.)
  1. What type of oil do you all recommend?
  2. What type of oil change interval?
  3. Warm up on a cold start, or no?
  4. Common symptoms to look for?
  5. Bio fuel? What blend? And for any of the east Portland area plebs, where do you get yours?
  6. Anyone using a vegi oil blend of their own? As in filtering, storing, and using?
  7. Common maintenance items that should be looked at on a regular basis?
For me...

Any good quality 10W40 or 5O that is within spec(found on the label on the oil container)

I change every 5000kms with 3 filters.....pattern filters except oil filter.

I let mine tick over whilst I get my things in order...never need glow plugs....the 200tdi and 300tdi will start without same,where I live.

I just use normal diesel with a bottle of cheap 2 stroke oil dumped in with every fuel fill.


Common servicing....and the odd wee thing to check and to know too....

Valves according to interval as they seldom will be far out. 0.2mm hot or cold.

P gasket will start to weep slowly so when it does order and spend a morning.You'll see a trace of coolant starting on the engine block.

Replace the plastic filler plugs on the thermostat and radiator with brass ones.They can get brittle with heat,age and leak..if not caught can lead to a head gasket fail.

Replace,every now and then,the plastic expansion bottle cap......they can block and cause the expansion bottle to split at the plastic welded seam of same....resulting in head gasket failure.

Disconnect EGR if fitted ...make a blanking plate or buy one.

Disconnect the crankcase to air turbo intake hose as the engine will continue to suck in engine vapour/oil residue to the turbo. I have mine vented into the chassis or one could use a 'catch can'

The plastic engine breather on the middle LHS of the rocker cover....this will weep oil...take off and after rinsing in e.g. petrol replace with a smear of silicon around the O ring on the fitting. This will stop it leaking.

Rinse intercooler out to clean out oil residue,usually annually.

If changing clutch use a reinforced clutch fork or weld a plate onto a new standard one.

Check lower intercooler hose for delaminating inside or turning to jelly...you'll loose power and this is a standard easy cause and fix.

Depending on where you live...you can extent battery life by not using the glow plugs..,as previously stated it'll start without these on a quarter turn. You'll always have a black puff of exhaust upon starting..this is normal.

Check that the top water hose to thermostat is clear of pulley..if touching slightly it can obviously wear through.

Serpentine (alternator belt) tensioner bearing needs checked when dipping for oil each week..if there's play order a new bearing,standard size and easy to find. You can replace same without buying the whole tensioner unit as Land Rover dictates.

Keep an eye on the timing cover pulley bearing for play also..you can find a bearing to replace same instead of buying the whole timing cover as Land Rover,again dictates . It's a John Deere tractor water pump bearing. The mount that the pulley bolts to can break at the bolt holes so check this every now and then.

Don't use Britpart for seals either Corteco (who make the seals for Land Rover)or Bearmach.

If having a sluggish start...bear in mind a lift pump..order same with olives as they don't come with the lift pump.

If anything else springs to mind I'll post.

All the best





.
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200tdi Ex British Army 110 Hardtop 139142kms
2.286 Petrol Series 3 Lightweight 75,043kms
3.2DiD Pajero 266,000kms
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Gas Gas 300EC Ohlins Enduro Moto.
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  #71  
Old February 16th, 2016, 01:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlins View Post
Check that the top water hose to thermostat is clear of pulley..if touching slightly it can obviously wear through.



.
A good way to keep this water hose clear of the pulley is the part that's made for that purpose: RN part RNQ86 (I don't have the LR part no. handy), which is a little plastic clip that affixes to the 90 degree bracket (RNN303) atop at 10 o'clock on the water pump pulley housing and holds the hose up and away. I ran mine for a couple thousand miles without one and almost rubbed through the hose. You can route/twist the hose to keep it out of the way, but this really, really keeps it out of the way.
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  #72  
Old February 20th, 2016, 06:25 AM
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Only used EGT in the air.

So explain to me the relationship between the 300Tdi, RPM, EGT, and Boost. What is normal range for these when tuned to approximate stock settings?
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  #73  
Old February 21st, 2016, 03:41 PM
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Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlins View Post
For me...

Disconnect the crankcase to air turbo intake hose as the engine will continue to suck in engine vapour/oil residue to the turbo. I have mine vented into the chassis or one could use a 'catch can'

.
Ohlins,
I went out today and began poking around to make this change on mine--I could probably figure something out, but figured I might just plagiarize--what did you use to blank off the hole in the turbo intake hose, and how did you route the hose to the chassis? Did you step it down to a smaller OD and just tuck it in a hole in the chassis on the right?

Thanks in advance...
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  #74  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:11 AM
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Bill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
OK, so madman is figuring out how to give us a discount code for defender source members and make it work with their website. I'm going to start a separate thread in misc chit-chat and will publish discount code info there as soon as I get it.
Since the madman EMS discount idea was germinated in this thread, I wanted to provide an update here--the discount is set up and will be effective for the entire month of March.

If interested, please see details here: http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...unt-68422.html
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  #75  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:33 AM
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Doug Crowther
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlins View Post
For me...

Any good quality 10W40 or 5O that is within spec(found on the label on the oil container)

I change every 5000kms with 3 filters.....pattern filters except oil filter.

I let mine tick over whilst I get my things in order...never need glow plugs....the 200tdi and 300tdi will start without same,where I live.

I just use normal diesel with a bottle of cheap 2 stroke oil dumped in with every fuel fill.


Common servicing....and the odd wee thing to check and to know too....

Valves according to interval as they seldom will be far out. 0.2mm hot or cold.

P gasket will start to weep slowly so when it does order and spend a morning.You'll see a trace of coolant starting on the engine block.

Replace the plastic filler plugs on the thermostat and radiator with brass ones.They can get brittle with heat,age and leak..if not caught can lead to a head gasket fail.

Replace,every now and then,the plastic expansion bottle cap......they can block and cause the expansion bottle to split at the plastic welded seam of same....resulting in head gasket failure.

Disconnect EGR if fitted ...make a blanking plate or buy one.

Disconnect the crankcase to air turbo intake hose as the engine will continue to suck in engine vapour/oil residue to the turbo. I have mine vented into the chassis or one could use a 'catch can'

The plastic engine breather on the middle LHS of the rocker cover....this will weep oil...take off and after rinsing in e.g. petrol replace with a smear of silicon around the O ring on the fitting. This will stop it leaking.

Rinse intercooler out to clean out oil residue,usually annually.

If changing clutch use a reinforced clutch fork or weld a plate onto a new standard one.

Check lower intercooler hose for delaminating inside or turning to jelly...you'll loose power and this is a standard easy cause and fix.

Depending on where you live...you can extent battery life by not using the glow plugs..,as previously stated it'll start without these on a quarter turn. You'll always have a black puff of exhaust upon starting..this is normal.

Check that the top water hose to thermostat is clear of pulley..if touching slightly it can obviously wear through.

Serpentine (alternator belt) tensioner bearing needs checked when dipping for oil each week..if there's play order a new bearing,standard size and easy to find. You can replace same without buying the whole tensioner unit as Land Rover dictates.

Keep an eye on the timing cover pulley bearing for play also..you can find a bearing to replace same instead of buying the whole timing cover as Land Rover,again dictates . It's a John Deere tractor water pump bearing. The mount that the pulley bolts to can break at the bolt holes so check this every now and then.

Don't use Britpart for seals either Corteco (who make the seals for Land Rover)or Bearmach.

If having a sluggish start...bear in mind a lift pump..order same with olives as they don't come with the lift pump.

If anything else springs to mind I'll post.

All the best





.

do you by chance have that John Deere water pump bearing part # ?
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  #76  
Old February 24th, 2016, 10:46 PM
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thomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ohlins View Post
Timing belt is 72,000 Imperial miles (116,000kms) or every 6 six years,which ever comes first. .
this is a snapshot from the Haynes manual, it can be interpreted either way.

Click image for larger version

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  #77  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:02 PM
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Crap that's a short interval if it's actually driven.

Edit.. Hayes recommends 36k!!!
Even shorter
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  #78  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:23 PM
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Good info and such. Keep it coming.

I was wondering about the relationship between the EGT, boost, and RPM's in a real world situation.

Also, I'm not at all worried about the intercooler and temps during normal operation in most of the weather we have here. But I do travel to 4000-5000 feet on a regular basis, 80-85 degrees.... does the fuel pump compensate for density altitudes? Should I expect to be running richer if I'm at higher alts during the summer? And what does this do to EGT/turbo temps?
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  #79  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:28 PM
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I'm wondering the same exact thing.
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  #80  
Old February 24th, 2016, 11:53 PM
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There is no altitude compensation. The effect is small with a turbo.

Other things tend to make more impact. Winds directions affecting intercooler air flow is a big impact. Peak EGTs also change with engine speed and how the pump is setup.
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