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  #21  
Old January 30th, 2016, 05:08 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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Vegetable oil is the raw, unprocessed oil that turns into biodiesel once it has been refined.
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  #22  
Old January 30th, 2016, 05:09 PM
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3 years? Anyone, I just got my truck to stop leaking from the rear main, and now I gotta take the front apart?
4 years 18k
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  #23  
Old January 30th, 2016, 05:11 PM
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Carl Jonsson
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I run B99 in the summer, B50 in the winter. B20 if I'm going up into snow and regular diesel if it's going to be Arctic freezing temperatures. Never had an issue with gelling.

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Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
Looks like for winter, I'd want B20, in the summer a B50 blend?
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  #24  
Old January 30th, 2016, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RBBailey View Post
...but a manufacturer saying this, is different than it actually being the cause... The fact that they certify for B20 means that they have faith in biodiesel as well. I doubt any manufacturer would certify B99, a simple temperature change can really change the viscosity of that stuff, even if the engine "runs fine" on it under normal circumstances.
When I did the conversion, my plans were to get a veggie system from Craig Reece when he was still at Plantdrive. I was excited about burning free fuel.
But in the mean time while saving up for the costly kit, I ran biodiesel.

The project cost twice what it should have and filled me with regrets for taking out the V8 that I had never had a serious issue with.
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  #25  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:07 PM
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There is a shell station at 16? & Powell that has consistently low prices on B20. (1.86 the last time i went) Lately the Shell on 182 & division as been the same price. The one on powell doesn't gouge you for using your credit card not sure about the one on division.
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  #26  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:46 PM
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Yeah, I found the one on 182nd with a search. That will probably be where I go when I want to do the blend.
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  #27  
Old January 30th, 2016, 09:54 PM
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[*]What type of oil do you all recommend?
Any good xW40 diesel engine oil will be fine. The "x" based on how cold the cold starts will be.

[*]What type of oil change interval?
10000 miles should be no problem, but as mentioned, oil analysis is a good idea for the first while to make sure everything is good.

[*]Warm up on a cold start, or no?
No

[*]Common symptoms to look for?
Symptoms of what? The best test is top speed. You should be able to pull up to 70 mph fairly easily and hopefully get up into the 80s, flat with no head wind.

[*]Common maintenance items that should be looked at on a regular basis?
See the manual. Nothing special, just follow the factory guidelines.
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  #28  
Old January 30th, 2016, 11:25 PM
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I used B100 exclusively in my 300 Tdi for the couple years I owned it and never had an issue. (Including fuel from Eco-Wise in Austin). Before I purchased it, that engine used WVO on a dual-tank system. No issues.
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  #29  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:28 AM
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Tim Barker
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlander View Post
forget all those questions. STEP ONE: FIND A LOCAL OR NEARBY MECHANIC THAT KNOWS ROVER TDI'S AND KNOWS WTF HE'S DOING.

Do not wait for something to go wrong. If you are not located near a Rover knowledge center (aka Indy Rover shop with TDI experience), this would be my biggest concern.

In Africa, every corner mechanic knows Rover TDI's. In the US, if it doesn't have an OBD port, they don't want to touch it.

I'm giving you chapter 3 of my life memoirs pre-publication.
Sorry to hijak
I've searched the rover mechanic thread without much help -
Do you have someone in Charlotte area that would fit this description?
Currently in process of bringing in a ROW D90 with 200 TDI

Thanks -
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  #30  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:32 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammyadams View Post
Sorry to hijak
I've searched the rover mechanic thread without much help -
Do you have someone in Charlotte area that would fit this description?
Currently in process of bringing in a ROW D90 with 200 TDI

Thanks -
nope. The guys down at Performance Rovers are friends of mine, and a great business, but they are Rover petrol guys. They are looking to get up to speed on rover diesels, but it will take a while.
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  #31  
Old February 1st, 2016, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tomaco1 View Post
3 years? Anyone, I just got my truck to stop leaking from the rear main, and now I gotta take the front apart? 4 years 18k
yes. I read that in the Haynes manual, I can post a pic of the page. A friend of mines belt blew up and he only had a couple Thousand miles on the engine in 4 years....
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  #32  
Old February 1st, 2016, 02:51 PM
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Also of great importance, but not mentioned, is to watch your coolant level, AND engine temperature. Get a guage with the actual readout in real numbers and keep an eye on it. The head is aluminum and the block cast iron, and those metals do not behave the same under high temperatures. The headgasket being the intermediary!
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  #33  
Old February 1st, 2016, 03:05 PM
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Actually Zach did touch on it!
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  #34  
Old February 1st, 2016, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenbull View Post
Also of great importance, but not mentioned, is to watch your coolant level, AND engine temperature. Get a guage with the actual readout in real numbers and keep an eye on it. The head is aluminum and the block cast iron, and those metals do not behave the same under high temperatures. The headgasket being the intermediary!
When you change to a VDO gauges, like everyone should, get a sender with a high temperature switch in it. Hook the switch to a buzzer. Makes overheating nearly impossible.
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  #35  
Old February 1st, 2016, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
When you change to a VDO gauges, like everyone should, get a sender with a high temperature switch in it. Hook the switch to a buzzer. Makes overheating nearly impossible.
What gauges (temp, oil pressure, Ect..) do you run on your TDI?
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  #36  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:39 PM
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I'm about to order a Madman EMS-2 and use it to monitor (with programmable alarms, IIRC) EGT, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, transmission oil temp, coolant level, and probably a couple other things I'm forgetting at the moment. The strong dollar (and the weak Rand) is making this way cheaper than it used to be,$360ish shipped last time I checked.
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  #37  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:43 PM
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Coolant temperature
Tachometer
Boost
EGT
Voltage

Coolant and EGT have audible alarms.

If I was to start again, I would get a Madman EMS2. Oil pressure and low coolant alarm would be good additions.
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  #38  
Old February 1st, 2016, 09:43 PM
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I'm going VDO, and I was wondering if there was some kind of temp alarm. I'll look for the one mentioned.
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  #39  
Old February 2nd, 2016, 06:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Coolant temperature
Tachometer
Boost
EGT
Voltage

Coolant and EGT have audible alarms.

If I was to start again, I would get a Madman EMS2. Oil pressure and low coolant alarm would be good additions.

Glad to hear that you'd do that if you had it to do over.
I believe the EMS2 can accommodate one pressure sender which can be used for oil pressure or boost. If that turns out to be the case I'll use the EMS for oil pressure (audible alarm is key) and just buy a separate VDO boost gauge.
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  #40  
Old February 2nd, 2016, 07:05 AM
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mark kellgren
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mdcoa View Post
I'm about to order a Madman EMS-2 and use it to monitor (with programmable alarms, IIRC) EGT, coolant temp, oil temp, oil pressure, transmission oil temp, coolant level, and probably a couple other things I'm forgetting at the moment. The strong dollar (and the weak Rand) is making this way cheaper than it used to be,$360ish shipped last time I checked.
me too. Im going to be switching soon
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