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  #1  
Old August 9th, 2009, 02:08 AM
imeek
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Isaac
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Overheating and oil issues

I'm the new owner of Grendel's 94 D90, and could use some help from the experts here. I have two issues, which may or may not be related.

The first is overheating. I drove the truck from NC to Texas, and it did fine. The truck ran a little hot at times during the trip (just a little left of center) and used about a quart during the 1400 miles. I attributed the heat to the extended time at 70-75 mph and the grill possibly not providing enough airflow (currently has a louvered home-made grill, but I'm looking to replace with an OEM one). There is a pic attached below to show what I'm talking about. I've checked the fan clutch, and it seems ok. At idle now the truck gets hot very quickly. Any thoughts on other things to look at? The temp sensor is next on my list to change, but I don't have experience with Land Rovers and don't want to throw parts at it if I'm missing something obvious.

The second issue I'm having is an oil leak coupled with a burning oil smell. From the moment I started the truck I could smell exhaust or burning oil (looked underneath and saw where a little oil had collected on the exhaust). I was crawling under the truck again this evening and noticed a far amount of oil on the PTC cover and the drain plug just next to it. It's possible the oil is coming from must above the tranfer case. It smells and feels like engine oil, not gear oil. Is this prototypical for a rear main seal? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. I'm going to degrease the area tomorrow morning and see what I can find, as I was having trouble finding the source.


A few things to note:
There isn't any cloudyness or milkyness to the oil. No smoke out of the tail pipe. T-case seems to have the normal slop, but engages fine. The transmission tunnel gets quite warm, but I figured that was normal.

Thank you in advance.

Ike
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  #2  
Old August 9th, 2009, 02:47 AM
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Cudos on the great deal. It seems you are starting the bonding process. Spending time under the truck is good for both of you.

Rip that grill off of it. I meant to PM you to say to do that before the trip. Bad, bad idea in the texas heat. New grills are like $40 aftermarket or ~$100 genuine. I have a slightly distorted one on the wall I could send you if no one has one in your price range. See if it still gets warm. Other easy test is to grab the upper hose and make sure it is pressurized. I would look to see if the water pump is leaking out the weep hole or if the bearing on it is starting to go (grab the fan and if there is any play other than in the rotational direction water pump is bad and should be changed asap).

As far as the oil leak, it is probably cross seals not the rear main (which almost never is bad, it is almost always the cross seals), but you have to figure out what is leaking onto the exhaust. Could be t-case, could be lots of things. My test is usually to see what is low on oil to ascertain what is leaking first and then pin down what part of that component is leaking.

Buy three quarts of redline MTL and drain and fill the transmission.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 03:05 AM
imeek
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Thank you, Ron. I'm pretty pleased with the truck and appreciate the bonding process.

I'll be taking the grill off asap. I've had a bit of trouble finding one and PM'd a few folks on the board, but have not heard back. If you're willing to part with the one on the wall, I'd be happy to take it off your hands. PM me and I'll send funds your way.

I'll check the upper hose tomorrow and the water pump. The fan has absolutely no play in it at all. I thought the clutch was the obvious culprit, but it is rock solid when the engine is off, and can not be slowed down with a newspaper when on.

I'll take a look at the cross seal area and flush the transmission. That redline MTL is good stuff.

Again, thank you for the help. I'm pretty excited about the truck and look forward to some good bonding and bloody knuckles.
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  #4  
Old August 9th, 2009, 03:12 AM
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Well my grill has a bit of distortion (the slats sagged a little bit) so you are better off with a perfect one, but you can have it if you send me something for my wall. New they are cheap. I would try George at RDS or safari rover.

My guess as far as the leak on the exhaust would be the back of the heads or the valve covers, but oil gets blown all over with leaks.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 09:03 AM
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Could the crank case be getting pressurized (?) from a bad flame trap valve cover breathers etc?
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Old August 9th, 2009, 10:29 AM
imeek
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Thanks Ron, I see they have them at RN for $55, I may just pick pick one up from them. I called George last week, but he is completely out and on't have more for a few weeks. I'll have a better idea when I check it out today.

Thanks Phillip, it could be. My Dad suggested to replace the PCV, to rule it out. Any way to check the flame trap?

Also, is there a recommended service/parts manual? I searched, but there seems to be a lot of opinions. CD's are fine, but I really prefer a hard copy.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 11:10 AM
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The following assumes the radiator is full, radiator has been flushed, radiator has been washed to remove mud and bugs from the fins, hoses are full and thermostat is working - best to try the simply cheap things first, but be prepared for more expensive solutions.

It is possible the airflow was blocked with that grill, but most of the time it is the radiator. Most of us have had them recored or switched to aluminum. That normally cures the overheating at 70 mph - the overheating while stopped is normally the fan clutch. I recently replaced the fan clutch on my 110 doublecab - it seemed to be working great, but vehicle was overheating while stopped - looked at everything else - changed the clutch and problem was cured.

I use a VDO temp guage with numbers and you can actually see when the thermostat opens and have some security in the accuracy.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 11:10 AM
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You can take that flame trap off and douche it out with brake parts cleaner (the only way to a clean rover) also the hoses could be clogged up from lack of maintenance. The flame trap just has a wire mesh in it I am not sure what it does to be honest. There is also a little foam breather on the rear of the DS valve cover. Probably worth while to replace all of these things. I think the RAVE CD's are pretty nice, you can print the information you need and not bother thumbing through hundreds of pages.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 01:55 PM
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The PCV would cause oil leaks, not the overheating. You should clean it out and if the hoses are hard replace them and if not make sure they are clear.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 06:38 PM
imeek
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Cleaned out the PCV and it was black and nasty. I started to remove the rubber tubes from it and around the tee, but they fell apart and were clearly clogged. Just ordered a set from RN.

I noticed that there was a fair amount of black, gritty build-up in the valve cover. Is that normal for a 3.9 with 105k? I also picked up a set of valve cover gaskets and will be changing transmission fluid and oil this next weekend.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 06:48 PM
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With a clogged PCV build up is fairly normal. Stick a quart of ATF in it and let it run for a while and then change the oil or use any commercial oil flush.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 07:05 PM
imeek
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Thanks Ron. I'll try the ATF trick and clean things out. I'm hoping the PCV was the cause of my oil leak. I took off the restrictive grill and should have a new one heading my way shortly. Can't wait to get back on the road.

What oil flush have you used?
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Old August 16th, 2009, 07:47 PM
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Rotella or Mobil One. Ive run some Rislone through my Classic. I did change my filter every 200 for the first few thousand.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 08:10 PM
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I just used ATF, but I only did it on two trucks I owned.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 08:19 PM
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regardless I think its just a good idea to leave it in and change the filter. ive been leaving a speaker magnet close to the drain plug on my Classic, its scary.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 09:29 PM
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With the ATF trick, should I drain a quart and add a quart?

I have been told by some techs at the dealer that they put ATF in the fuel tank to clean out the fuel system. Anyone tried this?
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Old August 16th, 2009, 10:43 PM
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Normally if it is that clogged/leaking, it is a quart low.
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Old August 17th, 2009, 06:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woldd90
With the ATF trick, should I drain a quart and add a quart?

I have been told by some techs at the dealer that they put ATF in the fuel tank to clean out the fuel system. Anyone tried this?
ive done this on diesels.
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  #19  
Old September 6th, 2009, 11:54 AM
imeek
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Received a "box-o-parts" this week from RN and sorted out the PCV tubing. Had the grill removed and took the truck out for a spin. The needle is just above center on the temp gauge. I'm going to flush the radiator after I finish swapping out all the lubricants first (one job at a time).

Ordered some Redline MTL for the trans, and will do it next weekend. I attempted to change the t-case fluid this weekend, but couldn't remove the filler. Is it reverse threaded? It's soaking in PB blaster right now and I'm going to get the breaker bar out for the next go around.

I have an oil leak that is causing oil to accumulate ON the oil pan. It looks like a straight forward job and will tackle it tomorrow (before I change the oil). Looks like removing the sway bar will make this a lot easier.

Any thoughts or suggestions for removing the t-case filler? I put my foot on it, but it wouldn't budge. I'd rather take my time than shear it and be hosed.

I also picked up some ATF and will try that over the next week. Thank you for the suggestion on the Rave CD's, I've looked them over and they seem to have some info. I really like more detail and will look for a more complete manual.
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  #20  
Old September 6th, 2009, 01:30 PM
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Readline MTL - you should notice smoother shifting

Oilpan - dropping the front sway bar is a must. Also , let the oil drain from the block for as long as you can.

Xfer case fill plug - it's a right-handed thread. Take you time with this, you definately don't want to bugger the threads, the case is aluminum. Try Liquid Wrench.

Good luck...


Cheers...
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