Outrigger bolts - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 31st, 2004, 10:22 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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Outrigger bolts

In my zeal to fit running boards on my 110 I damaged the threads on this. Are these the same for a Series and Defender? I show it as part # MRC9420.

Anyone know the size and a generic replacement?
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  #2  
Old November 1st, 2004, 01:24 AM
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Michael Elliott
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I have replaced these bolts on my Series 3 and 97 Defender. The Series 3 used a 1/2-13 (course) SAE bolt, 7 inches long. The 97 Defender, in contrast, utilized a slightly smaller metric equivalent with fine threads. It was about 7 1/8" long. I checked it with the gauge and it was not 7/16". But who knows on these damn things. One thing is for certain--if you want it to be a good tight fit (say, for a rock slider that you do not want to move), simply take a 1/2 inch drill bit to the hole. It will take all of 10 seconds because you are only opening the whole a fraction of an inch. You will then be able to 1/2 bolts which are very common and easy to obtain, even in grade 8.

Hope that helps.

Michael
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  #3  
Old November 1st, 2004, 09:12 AM
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Arthur Maravelis
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Well, I planned on drifting out the exisint one with the new one and then drifting that out with another new one wihtout disturbing anything. If I simply take it out will things shift?
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  #4  
Old November 1st, 2004, 10:10 AM
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Dave Lucas
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The stock bolt size on the Defender is 12mm but a 1/2" will fit without drilling. I always replace them with hardware when I install a set of sliders for a customer.
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  #5  
Old November 1st, 2004, 10:19 AM
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Arthur Maravelis
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Good news, Dave.

So, can I simply remove one without shifting things to the point of swearing? Can you be more specific with the replacement? How much thread? If you got a couple you want to sell it would make things easier for me.
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  #6  
Old November 1st, 2004, 02:18 PM
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Hi Art,

"So, can I simply remove one without shifting things to the point of swearing?"
When I install a set of sliders I just tap the old bolt out uning a hammer and an extra bolt, then tap the new bolt in place with a hammer. I have never had the bulkhead or other parts move enough from just taking out the bolt that I noticed a difference. The only thing that you will want to make note of is the amount and placement of washers between the bulkhead and the frame mount as they all vary on each Defender I have seen.

"How much thread? If you got a couple you want to sell it would make things easier for me."

I am in Las Vegas at SEMA this week so I can not measure them right now, but if you measure the length of the bolt it should be easy to match up at your local fastener store. Or if you have a second means of transportation just remove the bolt and drive the other car down and ask for 1/2" bolt in the same length.

Typically I purchase grade 8 bolts from the following store but I think even ACE hardware stocks grade 8 bolts in the length you will need.

http://www.fastenal.com/web/locations.ex
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  #7  
Old November 2nd, 2004, 12:52 AM
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Michael Elliott
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Dave,

Interesting--I could not get the 1/2 inch bolt through mine without drilling, but I guess there could have been any combination of factors causing this, such as rust, welding slag, drunk English installer, etc.........

I would definetely agree on using the 1/2 bolt size. Grade 8 bolts in this size, 7 to 8 inches long, are easy to obtain at Ace, Lowe's, Home Depot, OSH, etc. Again, I used these on both my Series 3 and Defender when fabricating and installing my rock sliders on both vehicles and they have held up very well.

Michael
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  #8  
Old December 23rd, 2012, 09:58 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Nothing like bumping an 8-year-old thread!

Can anyone confirm that 1/2" bolts will work over 7/16" for the bulkhead main bolts? Thinking of ordering up some 7 1/2" x 1/2" from McMaster to replace mine....
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  #9  
Old December 23rd, 2012, 10:21 PM
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Jeff A
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The 1/2 inch will work. I used them. And I have some if you need them!
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  #10  
Old December 23rd, 2012, 10:37 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefferson View Post
The 1/2 inch will work. I used them. And I have some if you need them!
Did you go with longer than 7"? I'm thinking 7 1/2"...mine look a little short as-is with the sliders (nut could use a few more threads).

Also did you use nylocs with them or just regular nuts?

How many do you have in what length?
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  #11  
Old December 23rd, 2012, 10:59 PM
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I'm an aircraft mechanic and I always use new self-locking nuts with a minimum of 2 threads exposed thru the nut.
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  #12  
Old December 23rd, 2012, 11:18 PM
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My truck was built with a threaded stud and nuts on both ends.

Makes it easier to make it the right length.
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  #13  
Old December 24th, 2012, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
My truck was built with a threaded stud and nuts on both ends.

Makes it easier to make it the right length.
Good candidate for the cheapfuck thread. Best to swap out with a shoulder bolt with the requisite strength over a threaded rod.
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  #14  
Old December 24th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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I think I used 8" because of the sliders. They are grade 8 with nylocs. I have about half an inch of exposed thread past the nut. I should have two left over if you want them once I am back in town. Have you taken yours out yet? They can be a bear.
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  #15  
Old December 24th, 2012, 09:42 AM
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Jason Lavender
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Perfect, yes I will take them off your hands.

Haven't taken mine out yet...was planning to remove and repaint the sliders and brackets....but need to wrap up my heater box mod first.

No rush we'll connect when you get back. Thanks!
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  #16  
Old December 24th, 2012, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by down_shift View Post
Good candidate for the cheapfuck thread. Best to swap out with a shoulder bolt with the requisite strength over a threaded rod.
Is a grade 8 threaded rod worse in this application than a grade 8 shoulder bolt?
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  #17  
Old December 24th, 2012, 10:24 AM
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Yes, the threaded rod will not be as strong and the threads present less contact area on the tube and will wear grooves into the bulkhead.

The shoulder is there for a reason.
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  #18  
Old December 24th, 2012, 10:28 AM
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About 20% worse. The dia of a shoulder bolt is .50" where the minor dia of a 1/2-13 threaded rod (the thread valley) is 0.404" and the threads will compromise the contact area.
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  #19  
Old December 24th, 2012, 11:02 AM
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love it, thanks guys
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