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  #21  
Old October 28th, 2011, 09:03 PM
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I have used the Susquehanna conventional version and the painless wiring one on other vehicles in the past. this time I did not want to wait for shipping so I went to the parts local store and made one myself for around $40 the wiring diagram , supplies needed and and proper lengths of wire for the Defender.
DIY Heavy Duty Headlight wiring loom for the LR Defender

List of goods needed
Two 30 amp relays
8 yellow (to accept 12 gauge wire) plastic coated (to the ends no metal exposed) female connectors
2 yellow plastic coated battery terminal eye connectors
2 straight male spade connectors (ends exposed)
one 4 way connector to split the 12 gauge ground wire to 4 locations
2 heavy duty in line fuse holder with 30 amp blade fuses
10 feet or so of split black plastic wire covering conduit
20' of red 12 gauge wire
20 ' of black 12 gage wire
10' of yellow 12 gauge wire
2 new HD H4 (9003) headlamp connectors (this leaves the stock wiring harness and connectors intact for future owners)
1 roll of good 3M electrical tape
heat shrink tubing (if you want a real nice professional touch)
15 or so small zip ties.
To send full power to the headlamps (or any other lights you might want to add) start from the battery or alternator Positive (+) terminal with the shortest length of wire you can (and still leave enough to be able to install uninstall unlike the stock Land Rover wiring where you have to reach into the light sockets to see if they are plugged in to the wiring harness) with a decent gauge wire, I like using 12 gauge one black (-) I like going from the battery ground directly because I don’t trust any of the Land Rover Grounds and one red (+) and brought it right up to the left hand fender lip (my Rover is a right hand drive so my battery is under the left seat) and located two 30amp relays from there, to the left head lamp you need 5 wires cut to 24" long. I used 1 black (ground) one to the new Left head light connector; 2 red (High beam left) one to the new connector and one to the old head lamp harness; 2 yellow (Left Low beam) one to the new headlamp connector and one to the old head lamp low beam.
Then you will need 3 wires cut to 72" long ( this will take you from the relays behind the left head light under the radiator and into the right hand head lamp fender cavity), one red right headlight high , one yellow right hand head light low beam; one black right hand head light ground ( you can run these in the split plastic wire harness cover or hand tape so they run as one group, zip tie in place.
Now you are simply use the existing headlamp wires to switch the relays on and off, and the relays send or interrupting current to the headlamps. This way, you can bring full current to the headlamps, with virtually no voltage drop, avoiding melting the expensive Land Rover head lamp switch (and getting much brighter lights to boot)
I like to mark the relays with some yellow electrical tape and mark{ with a fine point permanent pen} one "High beam", one "Low Beam" on top and the sides of each one gets marked pin 30= power in; pin 85 = Ground; pin 86= Old low on one and Old High on the other ( I used the left hand old head lamp wiring harness plug for these because it was the shortest distance); 87= to new high and to new low beams.
Now I joined and soldered and heat shrunk the main wire from the battery into 2 separate 30 amp inline fuse holders and from there the line coming out of the other side crimped the female fully covered connectors and put them on the pin 30 on each relay; now I soldered one red 72 " wire and one short 24" red wire together and left one good lead to crimp on a fully covered female connector and put it on the pin 87 on the High Beam relay; Then do the same for a 24" and 72" yellow lengths of wire and join them to the #87 pin on the low Beam relay. At this point I took two 24" pieces of wire soldered male un-protected spade end heat shrank the solder one will go to the old high and one to the old low beam spades in the old headlamp wiring harness and they go back up to the corresponding high and low beam relay pins #86. Now I tool a 72"and 24" black wire , and two 3" pieces of black wire and joined them all to the 4 way female wire connector (so your battery ground to each relay and out to each new headlamp socket (I soldered and joined two 3" relay grounds together so they only took up one spot on the 4way female connector (not sure if they make a 5 way connector but my auto part store did not carry one. At this point I was able to group all the wires by length and location and join them together with either tape or black plastic conduit . I soldered on the new headlamp sockets in place so I did not become an obstruction when feeding the wires to the headlamp locations. I also always use dielectric grease on all slip on fittings (relay, batteries and headlamp sockets) pictures to follow. What a difference, great lights and no fear of melting the stock switch.
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  #22  
Old November 4th, 2011, 07:48 PM
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mark kellgren
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i have parts to do this now. question. what length of wire is needed to run from left headlight to right headlight following stock routing?
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  #23  
Old November 4th, 2011, 08:19 PM
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72 " (sorry re-read "stock" routing) . Have no idea the stock route is or it's length, but the longer you run the wire the greater the resistance and voltage loss before it gets to the headlight. For optimal results the shortest length wire should be used .
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  #24  
Old November 4th, 2011, 09:14 PM
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I can contact rallylights.com for what lengths they used, I ordered with them over the phone while we ballparked the lengths and they all lined up perfectly. They honestly might have even saved it. Let me know if you'd like me to.
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  #25  
Old November 4th, 2011, 09:29 PM
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yes please!
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  #26  
Old March 23rd, 2012, 09:44 AM
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I'm working with rallylights.com to make up a single harness that will act as the headlight harness, a harness for the front hella 3Ks and a harness for the rear worklight. Danny very kindly remeasured the lengths that he used in case they are needed:
Relay to right headlight -- 7'
relay to left headlight -- 3.5'
relay to battery -- 8'

From that same relay position it would be another 3.5' from the left headlight to the hellas and about 20' to the rear worklamp. I need to sort out where I"m mounting switches and I may put the relays under a wing, undecided yet. I'll post up when it's eventually ordered and arrives.
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  #27  
Old March 23rd, 2012, 10:33 AM
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As Tony said, those lengths are based on the relay(s) being mounted on the firewall, to the left of the heater blower (RHD truck), if you mounted the relays in another location, just subtract or add the wire length from that location.

relay(s) location is where that light grey wire goes into the firewall -> http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...9&d=1319751193
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  #28  
Old March 23rd, 2012, 11:49 AM
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I have a friend with a Land Cruiser that ordered a wiring harness and fuse block kit from wiredwagon.com. It was extremely nice, I had contacted the guy about building one for a Defender. I am sure it is simple to recreate but I am pretty impatient and ADD always takes over on my wiring projects. The guy I spoke with at wiredwagon.com said he would be happy to put something together for a Defender. It is similar to the 40 series TLC's the differences being the wiring runs.
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  #29  
Old March 23rd, 2012, 01:27 PM
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http://wagongear.com/WiredWagon.html

I was just admiring one of those on a friend's FJ80 last week. Beautiful setup.
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  #30  
Old March 23rd, 2012, 10:05 PM
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So supertrooper has some interest in having wiredwagon make a harness for the Defender. As I mentioned earlier I had contacted him about making me one for my truck. Other more pressing projects have taken precedence over headlight wiring. If we could get a few people interested I am sure it would help bring the cost down. His harness is truly a work of art, beats the made in China ARB bullshit.
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  #31  
Old March 25th, 2012, 09:33 PM
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The fuse box and mounting bracket they use measures 5" tall with a base of 7" x 3.5". After hunting around under the hood of my truck (RHD 200tdi), there really isn't a good place to mount it, especially if it needs to be upright. The easiest option appears to be to mount itin the battery box. This would be easy to install but would necessitate long runs to the lights and switches. It could likely fiton top of the footwell on the right hand side of the bulkhead essentially under the brake booster, which would be a pain to access later, not to mention install. Last option would be to figure out a smaller air filter housing arrangement to try to get it in the cavity under the top of the left fender. Anyone have luck with a smaller housing?
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  #32  
Old March 25th, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Why not just rivet it to the fender/wheel well? It would be fine to mount it in the seat box you maybe have to increase the gauge of the wire. I am sure his standard wiring will out perform the current configuration even with the long runs.
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  #33  
Old March 25th, 2012, 10:49 PM
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Not enough space on either wheel well. Especially withtheheight it's just too tall to both fit and be able to remove the cover for access.
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  #34  
Old March 28th, 2012, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks View Post
The fuse box and mounting bracket they use measures 5" tall with a base of 7" x 3.5". After hunting around under the hood of my truck (RHD 200tdi), there really isn't a good place to mount it, especially if it needs to be upright. The easiest option appears to be to mount itin the battery box. This would be easy to install but would necessitate long runs to the lights and switches. It could likely fiton top of the footwell on the right hand side of the bulkhead essentially under the brake booster, which would be a pain to access later, not to mention install. Last option would be to figure out a smaller air filter housing arrangement to try to get it in the cavity under the top of the left fender. Anyone have luck with a smaller housing?
post a pic of it? Where I mounted mine there seemed to be room for a larger relay box (Mine didn't have provisions for the rear light or the fog lights). What about tucked around on the other side of the blower box enclosure thing? There might be enough room to wedge it in there at the edge of where the wing meets the firewall.
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  #35  
Old March 28th, 2012, 06:34 PM
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Ill take a look. Seems like it would be fine in the seat box
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  #36  
Old March 29th, 2012, 09:29 AM
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Does anyone have the part numbers for the front headlight and rear light harness for the items listed in the above threads? Also do they plug directly into the in the dash coming out of the firewall? Sorry I am new to wiring so any help would be great. Thank you.
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  #37  
Old March 29th, 2012, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by usadventureracing View Post
Does anyone have the part numbers for the front headlight and rear light harness for the items listed in the above threads? Also do they plug directly into the in the dash coming out of the firewall? Sorry I am new to wiring so any help would be great. Thank you.
The ones we were talking about only plug into the existing headlight plug if that makes sense. When you turn on the headlights, the voltage that would normally "power" the actual light instead tells the relay to power the light. You unplug the existing socket (?), plug it into the harness' which goes to the relay, then from the relay comes a new powered plug which goes to the actual light.

Another cable (powered by the relay) goes to the other headlight too, its "factory" plug just dangles there as its not needed with the new harness.

Yes somehow that made sense in my head.
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  #38  
Old March 29th, 2012, 12:13 PM
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I think you can get the pigtails for the H4 lights on ebay or amazon, this is the first one I pulled up: http://www.amazon.com/3A-Racing-46-9.../dp/B000CFUPKS
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  #39  
Old March 29th, 2012, 03:50 PM
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If we were able to convince Wagon Wire to make up a defender-specific harness, where would be a suitable position for that relay box that would fit the largest majority of trucks bearing in mind NAS vs. ROW, engine configuration, etc?
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  #40  
Old March 29th, 2012, 04:22 PM
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This is what you need for the relays. best bang for the buck

relays and harnesses 10 Pack and the harnesses also mount to each other to make a single block

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details


I also bought some marine heatshrink from Harbor freight and marine terminals from harbor freight

Marine wire from west marine and a blue sea fuse box
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