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  #1  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:12 PM
defender1844
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Amit Likhyani
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opinions on kevlar paint

If you aren't familiar with the finish it's basically colored bedliner that isn't as thick. Google "starwood Jeep wrangler" and you will have plenty of examples.

I'm dropping my white Defender off next week for a galvanized frame swap. I'm having it painted yellow since the frame off process makes it fairly easy to change color. This is a 1995 soft top that was formerly grego's in Oklahoma. It has some title issues in it's past(although my Texas title is clean) and it's been repaired in the past.

For the above reason I'm not too worried about resale value as I am not selling this one. I sold my 1997 and got furious every time I saw one driving with no top.

The shop I'm working with will paint my truck with the infused kevlar in the paint for the same price as a conventional base/clear AA yellow. I guess I should be comparing to a single stage like from the factory.

I'm leaning towards taking them up on it as I think it will be unique and I'm off roading this thing fairly often.

My question or request: talk me out of it. Is it douchey? Am I violating an unwritten Defender or Land Rover rule.

I'm also getting Recaro seats and a momo wheel and using an iPad Mini in a mud console for my car stereo. This thing is not a frame up 100% restore. It's my modern incarnation of what I want my D90 to be. And I'm changing color and if you research the VIN you will find stuff. Thoughts everyone?

Mit
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  #2  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:16 PM
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Marc
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My only concern would be touch up/blending in later on. Don't know anything about the kevlar infused paint.
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  #3  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:19 PM
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I think of Defender's as kids erector sets. There is a instruction manual on how to do a project, but every kid out there puts their own twist on it. Making it right to them.

It's your truck if it makes you happy and enjoy your Defender more, than why not do it?



This is to be taken with a grain of salt since I'm the guy that put mini-van seats in my ROW 110 and plasti-dipped my MGB.
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  #4  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:24 PM
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As you mentioned you're not worried on resale so it's no holds barred...you could have a few rattle cans made up from the same batch of paint. Where are you getting the frame done? What part of Austin do you frequent?
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  #5  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:27 PM
defender1844
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Amit Likhyani
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I live in downtown Austin. Ken Parker at Texas Defender Imports is doing the frame.
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  #6  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:34 PM
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Haven't heard of him before...http://www.texasdefenderimports.com/home.html. Would be nice to see more of his work on his site! Good luck with the frame off! Would like to know how the paint works out!!
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  #7  
Old December 23rd, 2013, 10:52 PM
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Amit Likhyani
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My build should be on their site.
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  #8  
Old December 24th, 2013, 11:46 AM
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The starwood jeeps look pretty rough in person. Bed liner, plastidip etc are good ways of hiding poor prep, lack of paint skills, and being too cheap for real paint. You can buff decades old paint, but oxidized plastic has no way of being rejuvinatede.

It may be flammable too. I almost had a fully rhino lined yellow jeep burn up while welding an o2 sensor for efi conversion. Once the uniqueness wears off I think you'd have serious buyers remorse.
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  #9  
Old December 24th, 2013, 11:55 AM
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Firstly why would you want to make your defender look like a jeep?

I'd hope the shop's attention to detail is better that their spelling ability.
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  #10  
Old December 24th, 2013, 12:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robertf View Post
The starwood jeeps look pretty rough in person. Bed liner, plastidip etc are good ways of hiding poor prep, lack of paint skills, and being too cheap for real paint.

Plasti-dip does not hide poor prep work, trust me. Plasti-dip is also a good way to try out other colors on a car before you commit to it. It's also a nice way to work on your painting skills in a cheap non-permanent way before doing real paint that is not as easily corrected.
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  #11  
Old December 24th, 2013, 12:44 PM
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Just speaking from a materials perspective - any kind of kevlar fiber in paint is going to have inferior mechanical properties. This is not the same thing as short-chain fiber-reinforced polymer, which has fiber lengths from a few millimeters to a centimeter long. Paint is just a few mils thick and therefore benefits very little mechanically from kevlar reinforcement.

I would be suspicious especially if they say they can provide the finish at the same cost as a normal paint job.
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  #12  
Old December 24th, 2013, 01:05 PM
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What about kevlar in paint is at all appealing?

Why would you do this again? To stand out? A D90 always stands out. keep it classy, no textured bedliner BS paint. Unless its to line the bed.
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  #13  
Old December 24th, 2013, 01:07 PM
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Bad idea. Paint type and color are like clothing: unless you're choosing something traditional, you're probably going to regret it in a few years. That "Kevlar" jeep yellow is the paint equivalent of a Spuds Mckenzie tshirt and a pair of stonewashed Bugle Boy jeans. The Momo steering wheel is the equivalent of the rat tail. At least you can cut the rat tail and put the original steering wheel on but it's still poor taste.

You have an awesome Defender that so few people have; why make it into a jeep that every swinging dick has?
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  #14  
Old December 24th, 2013, 01:17 PM
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Amit Likhyani
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you guys have talked me out of it. Thanks. Now for a conventional AA yellow should I get base coat/clear like most body shops are familiar with or should I do a one stage which is what the truck originally came with? This is a complete paint job with color change.
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  #15  
Old December 24th, 2013, 01:30 PM
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Base clear. Who said it was single stage from the factory? I find it hard to believe rover would use different formulas of beluga black for different models.
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  #16  
Old December 24th, 2013, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by defender1844 View Post
you guys have talked me out of it. Thanks. Now for a conventional AA yellow should I get base coat/clear like most body shops are familiar with or should I do a one stage which is what the truck originally came with? This is a complete paint job with color change.
This is where the shop can totally run you for a sucker and use some terrible paint.

If you're going with a non-metallic color paint job, such as AA Yellow, then you want single stage only. Make sure the paint is two-part urethane and properly primed and primer sealed.

If you're going with a metallic paint job (there are factory Defender metallics), then go with a base/clear coat, but you MUST make sure the clearcoat is a two-part urethane. Some people go for cheap resprays where the shops use a single-part acrylic clear and the stuff lasts a year at the most.

Believe it or not, there are now metallic single-stage two-part urethanes. Great for dark colors, ok for light colors, but not great for blending of panels.

The problem here is that most people who have their cars painted only know a distinction between "two part" and "single stage" and must understand that the composition of the paint, primer, and clearcoat (if applicable) are much more important.
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  #17  
Old December 24th, 2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Black was the only solid color to get clear. Willow and BR green got clear too, but they were metalic. Arles, Coniston, Alpine, AA, and the 2 reds were single stage.

-Jeff
That would explain the extra cost
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  #18  
Old December 24th, 2013, 02:23 PM
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I have this terrible feeling that the OP is being played by this shop and going to be taken to the cleaners. Or at least his bank account will and that will trigger a real case of remorse.
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  #19  
Old December 24th, 2013, 02:28 PM
robertf
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocky View Post
I have this terrible feeling that the OP is being played by this shop and going to be taken to the cleaners. Or at least his bank account will and that will trigger a real case of remorse.
They do seem to prefer the bedliner.

http://texasrovers.com/e107_plugins/...opic.php?35630
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  #20  
Old December 24th, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Douchey. Nothing says attention whore like AA yellow. Keep it white. It's a truck, not a lifestyle accessory. If you do paint it, go single stage, especially in a hot sunny climate.

-Jeff

oh I don't know about that...
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