opinion needed: repairing tub corners - Defender Source
Defender Source  

Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions


Reply
 
Thread Tools
  #1  
Old February 26th, 2013, 03:31 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
opinion needed: repairing tub corners

Hi there folks, as you know, I am currently in the middle of rebuilding my truck.

I am sending my tub and roof off to the ASCO on thursday to have them blasted to accelerate my rebuild.

The problem I have is what to do with the corners of my tub.

Description of the problem:

About 8-10" of both the left and rear corners of the tub (outer wing) are in various states of disrepair. There are wrinkles and bends which I believe cannot be fixed by bending/hammering.

As I see it, there are several options:

1. Buy completely new left and right side outer wings and completely replace these parts of the tub. I will not pursue this method due to the enormous cost, time, and the need to spot-weld the wings to the rest of the tub.

2. Cut out the affected areas and weld in new metal. This could be done but requires very precise cuts and very difficult butt-welds across at least 18-24" of thin sheet aluminum. I would need to find a way to bend replacement sheet metal.

3. Cut out the affected areas and rivet (cosmetically appealing) new metal on top of the affected areas. This seems like the quickest and most cost effective method.

I am planning to go with option 3, but I was wondering if anyone had suggestions, opinions, and/or other options to consider.
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old February 26th, 2013, 04:18 PM
Mybluett's Avatar
Mybluett
Status: Offline
Defenders Northwest
110SW
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Gig Harbor, WA
Posts: 2,014
Registry
Post up a picture or two of the areas in question.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old February 26th, 2013, 04:20 PM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Get some new skins and PanelBond them to the tub. Dunny dun.
This is far less annoying than any other course of action. You need to carefully drill out the welds from the outside so as to preserve the flanges on the inside portions of the tub. When it's all glued together you won't see any evidence that it has been repaired. It is a better way to attach as it is stronger than the original spot welds.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #4  
Old February 26th, 2013, 04:46 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
will post some pics up tonight, thanks
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old February 26th, 2013, 04:57 PM
Uncle Douglas's Avatar
Uncle Douglas
Status: Online
Doug Crowther
A defender in every driveway-motto
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gods Country- Central Virginia
Posts: 11,839
Registry
replacemnt panels aren't expensive and modern adhesives are as strong as spotwelds.
__________________
Good judgement comes from experience,experience comes from bad judgement.

Dividing Creek Imports
Worldwide Vehicle Shipment and Importation Service
Restoration & Modification work


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

410.693.1391


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old February 26th, 2013, 05:27 PM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
are you guys sure that replacement panels are not expensive? Where is the best place to buy both a left and a right side?
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old February 27th, 2013, 08:29 AM
jefhuf's Avatar
jefhuf
Status: Offline
Jeff Huff
'94 D90 ST #655
D-90 Source Vendor
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Haymarket, VA
Posts: 1,660
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSBriggs View Post
Another thought is that if you plan to offroad it, does it need to be strait? Or will strait-enough do?

-Jeff
That's big IF! We all assume that Kang's truck will never see dirt again!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old February 27th, 2013, 08:32 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Hu

Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20130227_083220.png
Views:	65
Size:	416.2 KB
ID:	67108



Click image for larger version

Name:	ForumRunner_20130227_083202.png
Views:	64
Size:	487.6 KB
ID:	67107
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old February 27th, 2013, 08:45 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Not worth messing with replacing panels. A little heat, a little hammer and dolly work, and leave it at that. Part of the history of the vehicle. You'll never get all the kinks out of all the stuff on the truck and besides you have a bunch of galvy shmatz on there, so clearly a smooth finish is not high on your list. Live with it. After it is painted and you have the capping on you won't even be bothered by it.
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:27 AM
down_shift's Avatar
down_shift
Status: Offline
Russell
94' D90 ST & 06' LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,118
Registry
Ed, call Josh Rowe at 703-342-7094. For ~ $250 you those panels will look new.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:35 AM
o2batsea's Avatar
o2batsea
Status: Offline
Bill Adams
66 109 sw 94 lwb
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: kensington md
Posts: 6,503
Registry
Even a cheapo harbor freight body hammer and dolly will give you pretty good results. You work in the reverse of the damage. Start at the end of the wrinkle and work towards the start of it. Work high to low. That is, if the wrinkle pushed the panel in, you use the hammer on the inside of the panel to push the "high" spot outward. keep the dolly under the hammer as an "anvil". As you do this the metal will flatten, but due to the fact that the wrinkle has stretched the metal, you need to "shrink" it so that the panel won't be warped.
Use the toothed side of the body hammer and the dolly. I would recommend that you perform this on the non showing side of the panel, as it will chew up the surface quite a lot. I use a little bit of pull on the hammer strike when I do this, working the edges toward the crease. Don't hit it hard, use lots of gentle taps. It will eventually work itself pretty flat.
If you find you must do some additional shrinking work on the side that shows, you can always sand it down after and use some filler to bring the surface back smooth.
You can get other hammer and dolly shapes beyond the basic ones for specific problems, but you are OK for now
__________________
Bill Adams

1966 109 5 door wagon 300Tdi "spermaceti fueled"
1994 RRC LeWiB "ruining the air behind me"
1968 2A 88

All my troubles are Rover
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:37 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Thanks guys.

Bill I have the HF hammer/dolly kit and it has been very useful on the rest of the build. I will give it a try on the tub corners.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:40 AM
cgalpin's Avatar
cgalpin
Status: Offline
Charles Galpin
'94 D90 ST, '63 SeriesIIA
Site Team
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: South Riding, VA
Posts: 11,625
Registry
I can't believe you are even worried about those! I have some damaged door skins as well as roof tops and mangled sills that you could use for practice if you feel you need it, bit I say give it a shot with the hammer and dolly and move on.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by pendy
I'm here for the D's
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:52 AM
down_shift's Avatar
down_shift
Status: Offline
Russell
94' D90 ST & 06' LR3
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Leesburg, VA
Posts: 4,118
Registry
Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Use the toothed side of the body hammer and the dolly.
The aluminum is too soft and thin for that. Tap on polypropylene sticks (about 1" dia) with various sized dull points and the dolly on the backside.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old February 27th, 2013, 09:57 AM
sonoronos's Avatar
sonoronos
Status: Offline
Ed
None
Member
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Arlington, VA
Posts: 5,537
Registry
Thanks Russ, will give that a try
Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Defender Source > Defender & Series Technical Discussions > Defender Technical Discussions

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
95 ST-price opinion needed LandWorks For Sale - Vehicles 28 June 18th, 2010 10:04 AM
B Pillar to tub diagonals needed CDeWan Wanted 1 April 11th, 2010 06:46 PM
?? tub anchor point - needed?? paulb Defender Technical Discussions 3 June 23rd, 2005 01:02 PM
D-90 Rear Tub Needed ember Wanted 12 March 10th, 2005 05:08 PM
tub width on a '94 D90 is tapered "natural"? paulb Defender Technical Discussions 3 August 18th, 2004 07:07 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:50 PM.


Copyright