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  #81  
Old December 28th, 2014, 09:51 PM
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Jason England
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Tis-solved. Bow down and worship the Boost deity and ye shall know the truth you seek.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #82  
Old December 29th, 2014, 05:55 PM
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Oh so this is why Josh is giving out advice on how to route spark plug wires? I'd wait until it runs for longer than a few days before taking any advice from him.

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Tis-solved. Bow down and worship the Boost deity and ye shall know the truth you seek.
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  #83  
Old December 29th, 2014, 06:27 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Oh so this is why Josh is giving out advice on how to route spark plug wires? I'd wait until it runs for longer than a few days before taking any advice from him.
His truck is fixed.

It was fixed using actual diagnosis, measurement, research and analysis not voodoo or random swapping of parts.

We know exactly why it didn't run and exactly why it runs now.

Now if I could only get that level of skill on my truck I could fix the damn mis-fire.

Anyone have an oscilloscope?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #84  
Old December 29th, 2014, 06:38 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Blah blah blah. Did you try leaning on your left cheek?
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  #85  
Old December 29th, 2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Blah blah blah. Did you try leaning on your left cheek?
I didn't ... do you think it would help?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #86  
Old December 30th, 2014, 08:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Solved a mis-match between coil and ECU.
Can you elaborate please?
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  #87  
Old December 30th, 2014, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC View Post
Can you elaborate please?
Mallory coil outputs 12v. ECU requires 9v. Excess current flowing caused cut out. Installed current limiting resistor.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #88  
Old December 30th, 2014, 09:59 AM
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This is how I understood it from Jason.

Basically, V=I*R whereby Voltage (V) = Current (I) * Resistance (R). Also, Watts (W) = Volt(age) (V) * Ampere (A). The Mallory coil that I have (Mallory 30450 Promaster E Series) has an output of 12 volts instead of the stock coil which has 9.5 volts + or - 1 Volt coming from the negative side of the coil (which goes to the ECU). So, checking along that Engine Speed Signal Cable and resistor, we noticed that the signal was dropping out post resistor and we all knew it had to do with heat since it would run for a bit and then wouldn't. Jason figured that due to the additional wattage, that the resistor / chicklet may have been heating up faster than one would have been with a stock coil. Adding an additional resistor inline at the chicklet meant dissipating the heat faster than creating it. Resistance went to roughly 13.6k Ohms with the additional resistor. What I'm confused by is that the Mallory 30450 Promaster E Series coil has a built in primary resistance of 1.4k Ohms, and a secondary resistance of 8.9k ohms, which I thought would get us down to within a stock range that the vehicle could tolerate without requiring an additional ballast resistor. Further confusing the point was that the vehicle ran just fine for about 1,700 miles with this system installed over the past year.

I'm just happy it's running!
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  #89  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:07 AM
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Photo. The test.
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  #90  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:09 AM
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Photo 2. The given.
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  #91  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:09 AM
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Photo 3. The fix.
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  #92  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:16 AM
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Photo 4. Pink shoes. Not me.

So the result was that we ran it for about 4 hours total on Sunday, it had plenty of time to build up heat and did not die. It pulled nicely up the hills, it wouldn't die when I'd take my foot off of the gas suddenly in traffic, etc. Time (and many miles) will tell if it's fixed but I hope it is. Jason brought some great ideas to the table and it was awesome to fix it for "free" with parts I had on the shelf, rather than just throwing additional parts at it. Systematically going through each component helped to clarify my understanding of the vehicle, and how to test this stuff in the future when it happens to someone else.
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  #93  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:29 AM
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The Mallory is designed to use a resistor… http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8832RES Isn't your resistance still high…. 13.6 vs 6.8

I was just looking through the WSM at the 87-88 yrs which shows the reading for coil - ecu should be 'battery volts'. I've never noticed the change to 9.5 with the 14CU. Both of my RRC are/were running with a 14CUX and an MSD coil. I'll have to take a look to see what my ECU is seeing.

Glad y'all got it sorted.
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  #94  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:34 AM
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Mallory had said the cylindrical coil version was designed to use that resistor, but that this 30450 had built in resistor, making that add-on void.

We discussed it a bit more over here;

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=29056
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  #95  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:36 AM
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ECU wants 7v.

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The ECM determines engine speed from data received through the negative coil lead. A
dropper resistor (6800 ohms) reduces the voltage at the ECM to approximately 7 volts. The
ECM requires a pulse from the ignition system before energizing injectors.
Josh why is your brake fluid black? What's the thinking behind a Mallory coil vs the Bosch?
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  #96  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:45 AM
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ECU wants 7v.
Is that a change between the 14CU & CUX?
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  #97  
Old December 30th, 2014, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
ECU wants 7v.



Josh why is your brake fluid black? What's the thinking behind a Mallory coil vs the Bosch?
Which is what it gets knocked down to post-resistor.

I don't know why the brake fluid appears black. I flushed it with all new fluid before Guy Fawkes about 13 months ago back when I was driving it weekly.

The thinking behind the Mallory coil (before I understood the direction of communication) was that the mallory coil would pair perfectly with the new mallory distributor.
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  #98  
Old December 30th, 2014, 03:05 PM
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I've been running the Mallory distributor for years, always with stock coil and ballast resistor. I finally broke down and got the pro aster e-series coil (30451) so I could get rid of the resistor. I could never get it to run well, stumbled, stalled, no power... I double checked everything was OK, triple checked I did everything right. Ran it with and without ballast resistor. Finally said fuck it and went back to stock coil with ballast resistor. Been reliable ever sense.
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  #99  
Old January 2nd, 2015, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Davis View Post
I've been running the Mallory distributor for years, always with stock coil and ballast resistor. I finally broke down and got the pro aster e-series coil (30451) so I could get rid of the resistor. I could never get it to run well, stumbled, stalled, no power... I double checked everything was OK, triple checked I did everything right. Ran it with and without ballast resistor. Finally said fuck it and went back to stock coil with ballast resistor. Been reliable ever sense.
The irony is it needs 2 resistors.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #100  
Old June 26th, 2015, 08:56 AM
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Interesting thread, have been having startup issues with the same part. Could you tell me what exactly you replaced the resistor with, I have been looking for a while and have not found a exact part or replacement for this.

Thanks in advance
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