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  #61  
Old June 26th, 2009, 10:38 PM
texmoto
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david summers
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Damn Hans, I wish you were not so far away, because I definately owe you a round or two. Or three. I will try that in the AM. Thanks for the info and the support. BTW, I checked the voltage on the MAF (thanks again Chris) and it was fine. Big 30 amp fuse that says "Fuel Inject" on the lid is okay and and has voltage.
However, pullled a couple of fuel injector plugs but got no voltage when the engine cranked. Any ideas or ther ways to test fuel lines?
David
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  #62  
Old June 26th, 2009, 11:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texmoto
Damn Hans, I wish you were not so far away, because I definately owe you a round or two. Or three. I will try that in the AM. Thanks for the info and the support. BTW, I checked the voltage on the MAF (thanks again Chris) and it was fine. Big 30 amp fuse that says "Fuel Inject" on the lid is okay and and has voltage.
However, pullled a couple of fuel injector plugs but got no voltage when the engine cranked. Any ideas or ther ways to test fuel lines?
David
Voltage tests aren't the most accurate for injector, as they are constantly switching. I prefer using test lights made for the use. They make commerical versions you might be able to get from Autozone on their lending program. I've made up a quickie solenoid light in the past with just an LED and resistor. Not the prettiest thing, but effective. I'd just have to look up again what size resistor to use, I want to say 220ohm.

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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  #63  
Old June 27th, 2009, 08:32 AM
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Chris Snyder
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I don't know how fast or advanced your meter is, but do you have a min/max function? The voltage fluctuates so quickly it might be too fast for your meter to deflect at all.
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  #64  
Old June 27th, 2009, 12:03 PM
texmoto
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david summers
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Well, I have voltage to the fuel injectors, that IS within spec, according to another guy.
Still don't have a proper fuel pressure tester that fits, however, the pump has FAILED Han's quick test. When the return line is clamped and the ignition is turned on, the pump runs, but is MUCH quieter than when the clamp is off. And, the engine will not start even when the return line is clamped.
So, is this sounding like the fuel pump needs replacing?
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  #65  
Old June 27th, 2009, 03:24 PM
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You're saying that it's quieter when the clamp is off? That's actually a sign of a good fuel pump most likely. As the pressure builds due to the blocked return line, the pump motor is straining against the resistance. Can't build up pressure unless the pump is pushing fuel. If the noise didn't change at all, that would mean no fuel was flowing.

-Hans
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  #66  
Old June 27th, 2009, 03:35 PM
texmoto
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david summers
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No, its quieter when the clamp is ON the return line. Also, borrowed a Bosch tester from a Rover shop and the fuel injector leads are NOT firing. Bad ECU? I have also been checking all the wires around the starter. No sign of arcing or missing insulation. So what would be causing the fuel injectors not to fire? Tested both sides with the test light; both a no go.


Also has throw code 20, throttle position sensor. Going to clear the code and see if it reappears.
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  #67  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 04:59 PM
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Joshua
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I'm getting some similar results here and have put out a few feelers for the 6.8k Ohm resistor aka chicklet (including out to Will Tillery referenced earlier). My truck will start right up after a long rest but after a couple of minutes the truck will just cut out without any real (audible) warning. Jason really helped to systematically work around point-to-point to get various readings, and I believe we've potentially tracked it down to this chicklet (hopefully). When we had it running, and had placed probes into the ECU for the white wire aka engine speed sensor cable - we were getting readings starting at ~7 volts when initially cranked/started which is normal operating, but as the vehicle began to warm up we observed that the voltage continued to decrease through the 6's then into the high 5s and then just dumped out. Upon cranking the next time the reading was essentially 0 at the ECU. We tried rigging together our own chicklet using some standard resistors we'd picked up but still were unable to get the vehicle running. I then found some (likely) old resistors from an ignition relocation kit I wasn't using, and that didn't work either when we tried each of those. So, I'm looking for this resistor, but at the same time I'm not too confident it's going to do anything as the likelihood that all 3 I've tried are bad is likely very low.

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  #68  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 05:04 PM
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It says LUCAS RD 953066 on it.
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  #69  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 05:26 PM
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My 89 RRC would quit on my while driving some times. 1/2 second, then start again. Everything dead -- EVERYTHING. Not good on the freeway.

Anyway, it was the main ignition wires on the steering column as they pass through the firewall there is a large plug there that had basically melted. Every time it shorted out the entire car would shut down. Engine, all electrics, everything.
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  #70  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 05:42 PM
Psychosys
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I had a Vauxhall Astra 1.8 petrol with exactly that problem. After a garage and and RAC man scratched thier heads and eventually washed thier hands of it (after relieving me of 400). I eventually traced the fault to a dry solder joint in the ECU which was mounted in the engine bay. When it got up to temp the electric fan would kick in and the rush of hot air through the engine bay would heat the ECU enough to widen the dry joint and cause everything to cut out. No fault codes no nothing until it cooled down. I found a company online which refurbed it for me. I had it back in less than five days and put it back together myself. Not being an expert on your engine I can't be any more assistance but the mysterious cut out reminded me of that particular fault.
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  #71  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 06:18 PM
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Jason England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psychosys View Post
I had a Vauxhall Astra 1.8 petrol with exactly that problem. After a garage and and RAC man scratched thier heads and eventually washed thier hands of it (after relieving me of 400). I eventually traced the fault to a dry solder joint in the ECU which was mounted in the engine bay. When it got up to temp the electric fan would kick in and the rush of hot air through the engine bay would heat the ECU enough to widen the dry joint and cause everything to cut out. No fault codes no nothing until it cooled down. I found a company online which refurbed it for me. I had it back in less than five days and put it back together myself. Not being an expert on your engine I can't be any more assistance but the mysterious cut out reminded me of that particular fault.
This is what I think is wrong with Josh's truck. I sent him on a wild goose chase to find a chicklet ... I have a spare ecu to try and if it works will attempt to relive the ECU soder by baking it in the oven!
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  #72  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
It says LUCAS RD 953066 on it.
you should have that made into jewelry for the wife ... ;-)
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #73  
Old December 22nd, 2014, 07:16 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Try another ECU, but I'd be looking at the ignition switch and wiring at this point. I had a similar "just cut out and then fix itself after a few minutes" and I think it boiled down to a bad connection at the ignition wiring.
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  #74  
Old December 23rd, 2014, 04:34 AM
Psychosys
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Sam
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Oh and if you have an engine immobiliser you need the key and key reader and ECU alltogether. Im not sure if you can dro another unit in if they are coded together.
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  #75  
Old December 23rd, 2014, 09:22 AM
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Chris Davis
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If the white/black stripe wire that comes from the harness at the rear of the engine doesn't have a good connection you won't start-- it connects at the coil. Sometimes cold connections work fine until hot which is very frustrating. I had an intermittent stall/start that turned out to be ignition switch-- I diagnosed it by noticing that when ignition was switched on I have coil voltage but when trying to start (and truck not starting) the coil was not getting voltage. That "intermittent" condition makes me feel that it is a bad connection (wire, switch or plug) or broken insulation on a wire as a possibility.

If you suspect fuel delivery, just shoot sone start fluid/choke cleaner directly into air take and you can start it off that (and keep it sort of running by shooting occasional blasts for a short test). That can at least tell you to look further into that system if it does indeed run. If it starts, then you need to check fuel system pressure (I used the inline checker from harbor freight) and if that is fine, then your fuel injectors. You said your injectors checked out fine already, but I am not sure about your fuel pressure. The checker goes in line where your filter is, so if you haven't already changed your filter, you might as well then. If pressure is fine, then it is either your filter or pressure regulator. If it was the filter, it will start fine with the inline checker in place. Sounds like it might not be fuel from what you said about spark, though.

Assuming it doesn't start with fuel spray, check for spark, first at your plug, and if doesn't have a start, check it at the coil (might be lead from distributor to coil). You have checked your coil, so doubtful it is coil. If no spark, then it leads me to think it is either from ignition switch or from one of the control systems or sensors.

Pm me your email and I'll shoot you the ecu trouble shoot/diagnosic guide (you can find it online or I have it saved.

One strange problem that took me forever to find, although one of the symptoms was loss of power, was there is a plastic bushing in the stock distributor that was broken-- I found the pieces inside the distributor under the guts. It did have the stalling issue that I could delay with throttle...

DEFINITELY CHECK THE THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR, sine you threw that code. Super simple check with an ohm meter-- you want to check for consistent ohm escalation with twisting the shaft without any dead spots. There are write ups on this test.

If you need to rule out MAF/ECU and can send you spares and you can shoot them back when your done, just let me know. I don't really suspect them, though, and with MAF disconnected, you should be able to start as it converts signal to "limp mode"
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  #76  
Old December 23rd, 2014, 09:38 AM
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thomas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
It says LUCAS RD 953066 on it.


http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm


Looks like they have used various ones.

------ Follow up post added December 23rd, 2014 09:43 AM ------

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-DRC1752L was available here.
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  #77  
Old December 23rd, 2014, 02:30 PM
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Chris Davis
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Here is a direct download link for the 13CU/14CUX manual I talked about: http://landroverforums.com/forum/att...stems-info.pdf
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  #78  
Old December 24th, 2014, 09:29 AM
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Check the resistance on the wires, my lwb had something similar turned out to be a bad corrosion in one of the power wires thus a break occurred and once heat arose it would create resistance and shut me down....
Old vw bugs had something similar to this issue, to verify it was the coil we would heat them to the failure point then cool the coil with a wet rag, to regain spark.
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  #79  
Old December 28th, 2014, 04:47 PM
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Hey Josh…
What's the latest thoughts?
I have a 'chicklet' and an ECU if you need for troubleshooting.
You ran tests on the ignition amplifier right?
If you suspect either ECU or chicklet getting hot & shutting it down… can't you test those with an ice pack when it happens?
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  #80  
Old December 28th, 2014, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC View Post
Hey Josh… What's the latest thoughts? I have a 'chicklet' and an ECU if you need for troubleshooting. You ran tests on the ignition amplifier right? If you suspect either ECU or chicklet getting hot & shutting it down… can't you test those with an ice pack when it happens?
Solved a mis-match between coil and ECU.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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