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  #41  
Old June 22nd, 2009, 09:41 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Bump, again for a source for this damn little resistor. Trying to get ahold of ECR, but their number seems to be busy all the time.
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  #42  
Old June 22nd, 2009, 10:03 AM
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call Will

www.roverguy.com
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  #43  
Old June 22nd, 2009, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texmoto
Bump, again for a source for this damn little resistor. Trying to get ahold of ECR, but their number seems to be busy all the time.
It is not a part we have. If I recall correctly it is considered part of the EFI harness and is not available from Rover as just that piece. We source them from various scrap yards when we need them.
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  #44  
Old June 22nd, 2009, 07:04 PM
texmoto
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david summers
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Okay, the problem is not fixed and has gotten worse. The vehicle will not start hot or cold. There is NO spark coming out of the coil. Here's whats been done:
- Coil changed. Coil tested and retested.
- Ignition control module changed. Grounds checked and cleaned.
- Inline 6.8k ohm resistor (inline to the MAF plug) replaced with a new one.
- MAF cleaned with MAF cleaner.
- All wires and plugs between checked with ohm meter. All show 0 resistance
- Old ICM swapped in, tried and new ignition control module put back in. No changes.
- Checked resistance on lead between coil and distributor; was about 10 k ohms. (Is that normal?)

At wits end. What to do next? What exactly triggers the ICM/ coil to fire? DO I need a new distributor? New ECM? New MAF?
When it was still running, I did try disconnecting the 6.8k ohm resistor, and the engine immediately died; no spark. Thanks in advance.
David
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  #45  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 07:32 PM
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David;

I haven't given up on you here, I'm just swamped at work right now. I'm trying to find the test sequence again for the hall sensor in the distributor, to see if the ignition module is getting a signal.

I highly suspect you won't need a new ECU or MAF, if there is no spark at all. My suspicion is something in the ignition circuit, not the EFI system.

-Hans
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  #46  
Old June 23rd, 2009, 11:13 PM
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Definitely make sure you check the connector and wires from the ICM to the coil. The ICM may be working, but not actually controlling the current to the coil.

I have had that fail and be finicky on two trucks so far. They were range rover classics with fairly high mileage, but they're identical to the defender.
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  #47  
Old June 24th, 2009, 10:26 PM
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david summers
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Unhappy

Update: I replaced the ICM again, found that I was not getting good contact with the red & blue wires from the distributor and fixed those. Good news: I now have spark, from the coil and to the plugs! Bad news: the vehicle will NOT start. So I do not know if the "stalling when hot" problem is fixed.
My fuel pump runs for a couple of seconds when I first turn on the key. Disconnected the fuel line after the filter, and good flow when I turn the key on. "Rented" a fuel pressure test kit from AutoZone. But, when I try to connect it, NONE of the fitting connect to the fuel line. Well, I was able to connect to the return line, but since the engine will not start, I had no pressure from the return line.
I need some kind of adapter fitting or another fuel pressure test kit.
Of course the fuel pressure is probably fine, I'm just trying to trouble shoot this no start situation. I even bought a battery charger to ensure proper voltage.
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  #48  
Old June 24th, 2009, 11:45 PM
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Hmmm.

I know how maddening this can be (I spent a day and finally called in the rover saviour, frank) and it turned out to be an intermittant short by one of the starter wires to the exhaust heat shield.

Here is how Frank trouble shot my truck.

1. You have spark so that is good.

2. Now, what you need to do is figure out is if your fuel injectors are firing. Pull a plug for one of them and put a multimeter on it and see if it is firing. (frank has a neat test light for this). If not firing then that limits it down. Have you swapped ECUs? (everyone should have a spare of everything for a 14CUX truck give how cheap used parts are).
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  #49  
Old June 25th, 2009, 08:09 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Thanks Ron. I up to about two weeks screwing with this thing. I read your thread no start thread. I will try checking the fuel injectors. Do you know if he was checking volts, or something else (milivolts, ohms, ect.)? Unfortunately, I do not have a spare ECU. BTW, I did check the big honking 30 amp fuse in the box by the firewall. It was fine. I will try checking for voltage there, as well.
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  #50  
Old June 25th, 2009, 08:56 AM
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have you tried it with your old 6.8k Ω resistor? There could be something screwed up with your new one. Make sure it's seated properly and making a good connection. That could cause the truck to not start.
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  #51  
Old June 25th, 2009, 09:00 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Yeah, actually found a new one, and changed it as well. Anyone know any way to test a MAF, other than swapping it out?
Also, what years of Discos and RRCs can I use MAFs and ECUs from? Any pre 96, or do they have to be from 94 or earlier?
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  #52  
Old June 25th, 2009, 09:39 AM
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All RRC's after '88 (with the 3.9 not the 3.5) and I believe "95 and '96 discos (Was there a '94 disco?) Any truck that has the 3.9 stamped on the plenum just like yours.

You can test what voltage the MAF is putting out to the computer. pull the rubber boot back on the MAF and connect your meter to the two outside wires. Check it with the ignition switched on.
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  #53  
Old June 25th, 2009, 10:10 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Chris, is that for the MAFs, ECUs or both? And big thanks on the MAF test, especially the pic. Any idea on voltage the plug for the fuel injectors?
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  #54  
Old June 25th, 2009, 10:14 AM
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Yes it is for both the ECU and MAF. I don't know about the voltage for the injectors. But I would think as long as there's something you'll be ok. Assuming your voltmeter is quick enough to detect it. I'm not sure how quick the pulses are.

If I were you, I'd read through this page: http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Rover-14CUX-EFI.htm

It should help you in understanding how this thing works as it's really very simple. It should help you quite a bit in your diagnosis.
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  #55  
Old June 25th, 2009, 10:27 AM
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You can just unplug the MAF. If that is the issue it will run.
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  #56  
Old June 25th, 2009, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
You can just unplug the MAF. If that is the issue it will run.

I had done ignition parts replacement on my Classic back when I bought it, i put everything back together but forgot to plug the MAF in and it would not start?
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  #57  
Old June 25th, 2009, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I had done ignition parts replacement on my Classic back when I bought it, i put everything back together but forgot to plug the MAF in and it would not start?
Out of curiosity I just went out and tried it on both my trucks and both started without the MAF. They both blew codes right away, obviously.
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  #58  
Old June 25th, 2009, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I had done ignition parts replacement on my Classic back when I bought it, i put everything back together but forgot to plug the MAF in and it would not start?

It heard you were saying bad things about it on the internet.
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  #59  
Old June 26th, 2009, 08:31 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Now a fuel pump question. What & where is the "thing" that tells the fuel pump to stop pumping after it has started pumping?
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  #60  
Old June 26th, 2009, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by texmoto
Now a fuel pump question. What & where is the "thing" that tells the fuel pump to stop pumping after it has started pumping?
There are a couple things that make the fuel pump turn on.

One is the priming sequence, when the pump automatically turns on for a few seconds once the computer receives power. If you don't start the engine, it will run about 2-3 seconds then shut off, pretty easy to hear this.

The other is a running engine. If the computer is receiving ignition pulses from the engine, it turns the pump on. And the pump stays on 100% of the time while the engine is running. Excess fuel pressure is bled off via a return line going back to the tank, controlled by a pressure regulator on the fuel rail.

I've come up with one quick and easy way to test the whole thing, not very scientific. (Ok, I read about it somewhere else, maybe a TVR forum?) The pressure regulator is behind the intake on top of the engine. It has a hard line going into it, which is the fuel supply. Then there is a soft line coming out of it, the return. First listen to how the fuel pump sounds during a priming sequence. Then clamp down on the return line with a vice grip or something, to restrict the flow though there. Then listen to a priming sequence again, it should be noticeably louder due to the higher pressure it's now generating. This will tell you if the pump is working. Also try to start the engine. If it starts with the line clamped, but shuts off when the clamp is removed, the pressure regulator is bad.


-Hans
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