Anticipating doing suspension and brake work on a NAS 110. Here is the setup:
Previous owner installed OME shocks and Springs at approx 47K. Truck has 99K now. PO installed "18N-N46" and "18N-45F" and the front Steering SD-32. Springs on Front are OME 757 (Medium) and Rear are OME 752 (Light)
reference http://members.shaw.ca/jbarge/springinfo.html#OEM
Truck has ARB Bull Bar w Ramsey 10K winch.
I dont notice any sagging (must be the self-leveling unit at work) and w/o the basket, the truck just sneeks into the garage.
So my three questions are...
1. Are the OME's a 50K mile shock, and if so, I should be changeing them out...righ?
2. If I am planning on adding a tent to the back, engle, extra gas, stuff to go truck camping, should I upgrade the springs, and if yes, what to?
3. Should I be installing a rear shock drop kit ? and if so where do you get them?
4. Spring Retainers from EE for rear springs regardless, correct?
What do you want to do with the truck? What is your budgit?
If there is no oil on your shocks there fine.
I am redoing the susp on my 110 right now & I am using Scorpion springs. I do not have shocks yet.
When my rig hits the trail I will let you know how I like the springs. & shocks what ever they are
Steve, I think a 110 rear springs are bigger and wider than a regular 90 springs with that I don't think EE retainers will work on a 110 since they are designed for 90's, but I could be wrong.
I would add the drop brackets as they increase droop and doesn't hurt the on road performance. SG sells the kit.
However, you can custom build the brackets and retainers and you'll save yourself a lot of $$ or you can always have someone here local build you a set. I have a SG drop bracket that I'm saving for my girlfriends D90 and you can borrow them to have a similar ones built. I can also show you how to build a spring retainers and you don't even need a welder for that. Let me know if you need to borrow anything
Is removeing the rear sway bar a reguirement to installing the rear sway bar?
Safari Gard emailed me back asking if I wanted a "droop kit"
That looks interesting, but I think a little more extreme than want I want to do right now....
COSteve
Follow-up Post:
Regarding above message, should be installing the shock drop kit require removal of the rear sway
No, you don't have to remove the sway bar to install the drop brackets but if you intend to keep the sway bar on there is no point of adding the drop kit. The kit only works when you remove the sway bars. You even gain more travel on OME suspension when sway bars are removed.
You won't need the droop kit unless you are running long travel shocks.
I removed my r sway bar long ago! You have many options. what are you going to do with the truck?
First thing you should do is opn up your dash & remove the signal stabilizer. It is a small board wrapped in electrical tape. right behind the speedo.
Plans for the truck is non extreme access to places to camp with the family, Rooftop Tent, Engle, camping gear, etc. Would like to get out in the desert in the spring and fall when its mud season (May and October) The truck is still by daily driver, so pavement driveability is important.
By the "signal Stabilizer" you mean to stabilize the temp guage.... did it, good tip.
Keep it the way it is for now. drive it figure out what you like & don't like & modify that way. Make a plan as far as upgrades for reliablity! Theree are MANY!!!! $$$$$$ If your truck is like mine you should look at some areas of potential rust & have them taken care of before you do anything! Between the cross member & frame, at the bottom of the bulkhead where the floor meets[by the inner fender well] Just to name a few.
1. As Peter mentioned, I wouldn't just arbitrarily replace the shocks. Remove them and check for damping action and any oil leakage. If they're Ok, stick them back in.
2. The rear 110 springs are definitely larger than the 90's. Since it sounds like you're looking at using your truck as more of an expedition truck, I'd recommend going to the OME medium springs (755). I went from the lights to mediums, and didn't notice much of a difference in ride quality. Load carrying seems to be improved although I can feel it sway when the truck is fully loaded. I have removed my sway bar, but I didn't notice any difference with or without it.
3. It seems like for your stated use there's no reason to add a droop kit. You can always add it later if you start going more extreme.
4. I like the idea of retained springs for stability, and I'm running that configuration all the way around. I have the EE retainers in the front (external shocks), and I made similar retainers in a larger size for the rear.
Thanks to all, good to get a couple of prospectives. I guess I am leary of the ft stabilizer as I had an OEM one go out at 50K in a rangie a while back. I am wondering if I went to the mediums OME on the back if I will see the truck sit overall higher, as right now I have about 1 inch clearance when driving in the garage. No problems with rust seen yet (origionally a CA desert truck) Pete, looking forward to what your impression of the Scorpions are. Thanks to all! Great Input.
LOL
Mike, I mentioned that exact same thing to the better half when I was selling her on getting the truck in the first place, and I got the "blank look from hell" ..... brings back memories.....
Steve - According to EE's website on OME springs, the 755's are actually 0.20" shorter than the 752's.
I also started off with the objective of keeping the 110 such that it would fit in my garage. But that evaporated with the roof rack, Thule box, and 35's. Now I'm just going to build a garage that the 110 will fit in
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