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  #21  
Old June 8th, 2014, 01:39 PM
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Danny V
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before n after cleaning the icv

Sprayed clean w Gumout Carb n Choke Cleaner(not the green version but it does say it's 50 state VOC compliant-yay me!) It looked pretty carbon-fouled but don't know if that's how its supposed to be. Looking at the new one at Autozone, course it looked nice n shiny. The spring/plunger thermostat-like set up made me think there might be a little give but if it was supposed to move, it didn't move much. The housing looked pretty blackened up too. Cleaned up ok after. Gonna put a few miles on it & see how it does. Thanx guys for the pointers.
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  #22  
Old June 8th, 2014, 01:47 PM
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Ooh, I may need a mani- when I'm done
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  #23  
Old June 15th, 2014, 06:51 PM
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Update Bump. Again

After cleaning the idle valve & putting a couple hundred miles on it the idling improved really nice. Clutching to a stop, the mild backfire all but disappeared but the idling down to dying didn't go away. Next up is installing a new valve & a few hundred miles we'll see how it goes.
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  #24  
Old June 30th, 2014, 02:56 PM
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Bump Update with a new Development

Replaced the idle control valve with a new BorgWarner icv & within 25 miles the 90 acted up with a new twist. I'd been driving around stop n go, all seemed well, then stopped for about 30-45 minutes, headed out again & going about 30mph it started cutting out, backfiring & had to pull over. This is a new development. The last time it did something like this was from starting at a stop light, misfiring, pulled over & corrected itself without re-starting. This time I stopped it cuz it was running so rough at idle, restarted & ran ok the 5 miles or so back to the house. I took out the new icv, put the "original" icv back in & it has continued to run just fine for the last 100 or so miles after. Did the electronics need to learn there was a new icv or something or is it a track down the electrical gremlins like y'all've said, (Ignition amplifier failure-?). Jason you'd mention vss_?
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  #25  
Old June 30th, 2014, 03:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UTRPh View Post
Replaced the idle control valve with a new BorgWarner icv & within 25 miles the 90 acted up with a new twist. I'd been driving around stop n go, all seemed well, then stopped for about 30-45 minutes, headed out again & going about 30mph it started cutting out, backfiring & had to pull over. This is a new development. The last time it did something like this was from starting at a stop light, misfiring, pulled over & corrected itself without re-starting. This time I stopped it cuz it was running so rough at idle, restarted & ran ok the 5 miles or so back to the house. I took out the new icv, put the "original" icv back in & it has continued to run just fine for the last 100 or so miles after. Did the electronics need to learn there was a new icv or something or is it a track down the electrical gremlins like y'all've said, (Ignition amplifier failure-?). Jason you'd mention vss_?
reset the ECU - basically remove the power ... i never figured out why that had to be done ... but it helped when i changed mine.

The VSS indicates the truck is moving or slowing to a stop and gets the ECU ready to control the IACV and hence the idle.

also check that no hoses are loose ... especially the big one that can cause bucking.
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  #26  
Old July 1st, 2014, 09:00 AM
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Maybe incorrect but my Volvo did this when the fuel pump relay was going bad, not sure if v8 trucks even have a relay for the fuel pump but worth a shot
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  #27  
Old July 1st, 2014, 02:32 PM
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Did you notice if the ambient weather conditions had anything to do with it? I used to have a 95 ST when I was in Austin. Ran like a top during a 5 month spell of dry and scorching hot weather. But on days the weather turned a little damp and cool in the fall (with slight drizzling) the rig would have the intermittent stalling problem. A Land Rover specialist I won't name in Austin (they also have a shop in another big TX city) charged me for a couple diagnostics tests such as checking the fuel pump relays but never really got to the root of the problem. One theory they had was maybe I had water in my gas tank and I should add some sort of gas additive. Sounded more like a shot in the dark to me. Anyway, sometimes unplugging and cleaning up old corroded connections (Dremel hand tool with abrasive drum at medium speed is good) leading to the ignition coil, ignition module, etc, makes everything run that much better. Solved a rough idle condition for me on my current rig.
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  #28  
Old July 1st, 2014, 05:26 PM
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Disconnected both batteries for about an hour or so, & at about a hundred miles or so later still dropping idle but after I've come to a stop(light, sign, traffic, etc.) but not dying, at least not yet. I'm gonna go thru & clean all the connections I can find with residue-free contact cleaner just because this truck has come from living most of its life in Idaho, Spokane WA areas, down to gulf coast. Funny, when they took that first-time ever water break during the world cup matches, they compared playing conditions to being as bad as playing in Houston or Dallas, so yea wanna make sure corrosion hasn't crept in.
Jason, where is the VSS & how do I check it out? Also gonna check all the hoses but which big hose are you talkin about?
Also, like just mentioned, does a 94 have those infamous silver relays & where are those bad boys? One of our club members had to replace his on his 95 d90 on a recent trip w the AZLRO bunch after they gave out after intermittent similar symptoms.
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  #29  
Old July 1st, 2014, 06:29 PM
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VSS is tucked away on the driver's side of the frame, plugs into the transmission. The mechanical cable for the speedometer also runs into it. Once you find it, it's like, oh that's obvious.

If you want to be thorough with the terminals and contacts cleaning, use a Dremel at moderate speeds to get that shiny copper look. Clean residue with electrical cleaner. Apply a very thin film (not gobs) of dielectric grease to the connecting surfaces when putting back together to prevent future corrosion or moisture buildup.

------ Follow up post added July 1st, 2014 04:33 PM ------

Oh wait, I think VSS is plugged into the transfer case. Just follow the speedometer cable if you get lost.
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  #30  
Old July 1st, 2014, 07:28 PM
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No VSS is on the frame like you describes and has wires green and yellow I think going to the ECU. This tells the ECU to start idle control when stopping.

The big hose is the one from the MAF to the plenum. They can rot out underneath and let more air in than the MAF measures and mess up the idle.

Also check ignition timing with vacuum advance hose disconnected. Also check that hose is in good condition.
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  #31  
Old July 1st, 2014, 08:10 PM
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This! I have a '94 and never understood why it's happening as noted, but when the engine is warmed up within 5 or so minutes the vehicle ran like a top.

Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptMidnite View Post
Did you notice if the ambient weather conditions had anything to do with it? I used to have a 95 ST when I was in Austin. Ran like a top during a 5 month spell of dry and scorching hot weather. But on days the weather turned a little damp and cool in the fall (with slight drizzling) the rig would have the intermittent stalling problem.
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  #32  
Old July 1st, 2014, 11:23 PM
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If it's any consolation my LWB started doing this same thing about a week or so ago. Poor idle, wants to die, etc. tonight did all the usual suspects...stepper motor, cap rotor, ign amplifier, checked vac leaks. Still runs bad. One thing I didn't check was the fuel pressure regulator. It has a vac line on it which may have failed. That might make it run crappy. Will look tomorrow.
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  #33  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 10:50 AM
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More Frequent Now

Well, haven't had a chance to do all of the above yet but the dying-out, cutting-out is getting more frequent. Now, it might do it when I'm at highway speed when I push the clutch in to slow down, not when I'm changing gears. To me it seems very similar to a plugged up fuel filter. Haven't really looked yet but I recall seeing a fuel-filter-looking-like-canister along the frame on the passenger side. Is that where they are & is it a likely culprit also?
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  #34  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
If it's any consolation my LWB started doing this same thing about a week or so ago. Poor idle, wants to die, etc. tonight did all the usual suspects...stepper motor, cap rotor, ign amplifier, checked vac leaks. Still runs bad. One thing I didn't check was the fuel pressure regulator. It has a vac line on it which may have failed. That might make it run crappy. Will look tomorrow.
Bill, did you have a chance to look at the pressure reg? My 90 gives me weak fits once in awhile. The idle will be high and revving at 1,000 but if I drive it, stop the engine and restart it later the idle is fine. Other times the idle might hover between 5-600. If I tap the gas it regains strength and all is well again. The fuel pressure was strong when I checked it but given mine is intermittent what you describe sounds like it makes sense in my particular case.

Clay
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  #35  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 11:43 AM
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Yah clay it was fine. My idle still very lumpy and rough. I'll get it fingered out.
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  #36  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 12:14 PM
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Yah clay it was fine. My idle still very lumpy and rough. I'll get it fingered out.
Thanks Captain.
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  #37  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 01:21 PM
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Bill, sounds like my 90 is starting to sound like yours. How do you go about checking fuel pressure regulator, is that like checking a fuel pump pressure? Also, on a 94 are the fuel relays a problem like the 95's. One of our club members had troubles sounding a lot like this & was finally fixed on the road by replacing the 2 silver relays(they threw a lotta parts like the kind discussed & more on other threads to no avail).
As the cutting off continued yesterday, I thought I felt it stutter when I hit a big road bump. Related?
I also have a rattle that sounds a lot like the cat matrix is breaking up & working its way down to the muffler. Could that be a cause?(I wouldn't thinks but what do I know).
Thanx guys
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  #38  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 03:12 PM
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Just a theory but maybe a loose or corroded ground or positive wire somewhere in the ignition, VSS or fuel pump circuit? Hence, a jolt from a rough bump resulting in the sputtering, or when you're idling the alternator isn't putting out enough juice through the poor connections.
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  #39  
Old July 3rd, 2014, 04:39 PM
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All I checked on the pressure regulator was the air hose. On mine it starts runs accelerates just fine. Just hates to idle. It acts like it's running out of gas or has a vacuum leak.
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  #40  
Old July 4th, 2014, 12:34 PM
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Bleah. Gotta be fuel. Swapped in other Diz with remote amplifier, different alternator, still stumbly.
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