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Old November 29th, 2012, 07:51 AM
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Oil sump pan Installation

What are everyone's thoughts on fitting the oil sump pan?
I needed to take the pan off and bang out the giant dent that occurred during shipping.

LR says to torque in the pattern to 25Nm but the permatex ultra black says to tightest until it oozes, let sit and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Seems to me that you would maybe let it sit an hour and then torque to the LR spec and sequence. Thoughts?

And so taking off the pan....I know there will be metal in an engine after a rebuild...but this seems excessive to me. That was probably about 2/3 of what I removed. I noticed something odd when the engine was on the stand. Thought it looked like coffee grounds in the corners and crevices on the block near the sump face. Put a magnet wand over by it and started getting these clumps whenever I stuck the magnet in a spot where they could have got stuck. Any areas that were like a lip or lip/corner. Thoughts there?
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  #2  
Old November 29th, 2012, 08:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
What are everyone's thoughts on fitting the oil sump pan?
I needed to take the pan off and bang out the giant dent that occurred during shipping.

LR says to torque in the pattern to 25Nm but the permatex ultra black says to tightest until it oozes, let sit and then tighten 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Seems to me that you would maybe let it sit an hour and then torque to the LR spec and sequence. Thoughts?

And so taking off the pan....I know there will be metal in an engine after a rebuild...but this seems excessive to me. That was probably about 2/3 of what I removed. I noticed something odd when the engine was on the stand. Thought it looked like coffee grounds in the corners and crevices on the block near the sump face. Put a magnet wand over by it and started getting these clumps whenever I stuck the magnet in a spot where they could have got stuck. Any areas that were like a lip or lip/corner. Thoughts there?
Who do you trust to make something that doesn't leak .... Landrover or permatex?
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Old November 29th, 2012, 09:15 AM
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Who do you trust to make something that doesn't leak .... Landrover or permatex?
haha. Yea I read ya.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 09:38 AM
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I use right stuff. 20min job.

The stuff that came out of your block is scary. Especially since its ferrous.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 04:47 PM
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Do you use right stuff according to their instructions or land rovers?
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Old November 29th, 2012, 04:50 PM
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Do you use right stuff according to their instructions or land rovers?
Is there a difference? Spread it on there and torque it down. WHILE YOU ARE AT IT DO YOUR CROSS SEALS. $5 in parts and an extra half an hour and it will stop the "rear main seal leak."
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Old November 29th, 2012, 05:05 PM
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Is there a difference? Spread it on there and torque it down. WHILE YOU ARE AT IT DO YOUR CROSS SEALS. $5 in parts and an extra half an hour and it will stop the "rear main seal leak."
Well I was just wondering because the permatex stuff says to tighten until it starts tom come out and then let stand for an hour and then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. I guess tighten until it comes out is a loose term. I can see that it kind of makes the gasket and then you are compressing it after it is set. Where the LR more sounds like set it and forget it.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 05:25 PM
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The stuff that came out of your block is scary. Especially since its ferrous.
x2 Is this on a fresh rebuild, before it has been fired up? tdi?
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Old November 29th, 2012, 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Is there a difference? Spread it on there and torque it down. WHILE YOU ARE AT IT DO YOUR CROSS SEALS. $5 in parts and an extra half an hour and it will stop the "rear main seal leak."
x2

Ron - we should put a post together from when I took pics of mine and link that whenever the topic comes up (which seems to be semi-frequently).

It really is not that bad of a job and easy as pie once the pan is off. I really think it should be the 2nd "Must Do" step when buying an old V8 Defender after getting the oil lines done.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Yes fresh rebuild. I beleive it was test run. 300tdi. Yea I guess I didn't mention this is on the 300tdi I am swapping in.
Do the 300tdi still need the t piece? I would assume they are all new anyways...but stuff might be coming out.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 06:19 PM
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I would find the metal you found inside the block extremely alarming on a freshly rebuilt engine. Hell I'd find it alarming on one with 100k. Who rebuilt it ?
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Old November 29th, 2012, 06:22 PM
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Is it swarf from machining the block? Hard to tell from the pic. Was it rebuilt locally? Do you have a good warranty on their work?
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Old November 29th, 2012, 06:27 PM
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It was from this guy:
DISCOVERY PARTS LTD in the UK
You can see them on ebay. Supposed to have a 1yr 12k mile.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Broncoduecer View Post
It was from this guy:
DISCOVERY PARTS LTD in the UK
You can see them on ebay. Supposed to have a 1yr 12k mile.
thats Ok then ... for a minute I thought it might be tricky to return it for warranty repair ...
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Old November 29th, 2012, 07:56 PM
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thats Ok then ... for a minute I thought it might be tricky to return it for warranty repair ...
Exactly.
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:00 PM
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Peter a couple of mins of run time with oil contaminated with all that crap could wipe all the bearings.

not trying to be Dr Gloom but if it were mine I'd start pulling bearing shells to see what I have
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Old November 29th, 2012, 10:19 PM
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That's bad, id might expect some super fine particles when I cut the filter open after a rebuild.
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