Oil Pump Rebuild Kit 1994 NAS 90 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old June 20th, 2016, 02:24 PM
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Bill Campbell
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Oil Pump Rebuild Kit 1994 NAS 90

So my truck will turn over and fire but I have lost prime on the oil pump. I tried the fill the oil cooler hose method (because easiest first right?) and that didn't help. I guess I am going to have to pack the oil pump with vasoline and give it a shot. A few people have commented that as long as one is doing that you should get an Pump Rebuild Kit. I have searched the usual vendors sites and all I can find is one for a 97. Anyone have a link to one or ideas where to get one?

TL;DR where the f do I get an oil pump rebuild kit for a 1994 90?
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  #2  
Old June 20th, 2016, 02:40 PM
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Stephan Laputka
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I'm certainly not the expert but I'm not sure what there is to rebuild other than changing out the gears and the gasket?

Oil Pump Shaft & Gear Assembly (ERC1351 Same Fit As Part # ERC1351 ) - Land Rover block from Atlantic British

Seal - ZF Oil Pump Shaft (RTC5102 Same Fit As Part # RTC5102 ) - Land Rover gaskets and seals from Atlantic British
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Old June 20th, 2016, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
Thanks I haven't been up in there to see what would be replaceable. A few of the threads have talked about a kit though, so I was thinking something like the clutch master cylinder kit or like a brake caliper kit where you get all the gaskets and parts that get warn. Just couldn't find one. Maybe they don't exist.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 03:26 PM
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Is there a spec in the engine rebuild manual for checking the oil pump gear tolerances?
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Old June 20th, 2016, 03:33 PM
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Yeah once you split the pump in half the gears will pull out by hand. Before you spend the money, you might just get in there and see what you're working with. Somebody smarter than me can chime in with what the tolerances are but when I opened mine up, there was no play at all btw the two gears. I'm sure there is a range of what's acceptable. Also, while you'll get much debate on this, I removed the plate for the oil cooler lines and removed them all together.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
Yeah once you split the pump in half the gears will pull out by hand. Before you spend the money, you might just get in there and see what you're working with. Somebody smarter than me can chime in with what the tolerances are but when I opened mine up, there was no play at all btw the two gears. I'm sure there is a range of what's acceptable. Also, while you'll get much debate on this, I removed the plate for the oil cooler lines and removed them all together.
Ya sounds like the plan to go with. I just didn't want to pull it all out and then have to order stuff and wait and then hit it again. I built some steel braided cooler lines a while back, so I am keeping them, if only because I put in the money and effort already. I am not sure the cooler makes a difference though. Just seems like another point that can fail.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 03:54 PM
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The gear inspection details are in the workshop manual.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 06:13 PM
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I wouldn't bother. Problem is you aren't spinning it fast enough. Simply pull the dizzy and spin the gear faster with a drill with the ign key in the run position. Have someone watch the idiot light and when it goes out stop and put the dizzy back in. In my experience what usually wears in the old type oil pumps is the cast aluminum cover as the end of the oil pump gear rubs on it, not the gears. Putting new gears in wont change the need for a new front cover on your engine.
The part to prime your pump is easily made or even easier bought. I made one from a piece of stainless tubing and simply put one end in a vise to make it fit over the blade on the oil pump gear.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...EmnhoCZxHw_wcB
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  #9  
Old June 20th, 2016, 10:11 PM
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x2 on Uncle D's advice on the drill method.
If you do decided to rebuild you can resurface the face of the oil pump cover. Makes a huge difference.
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Old June 20th, 2016, 11:02 PM
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x2 on Uncle D's advice on the drill method. If you do decided to rebuild you can resurface the face of the oil pump cover. Makes a huge difference.
Looks like the drill method it is. I was trying to avoid pulling the diz purely because I have never done it and dont want to screw up the timing.

Resurface in what way?
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Old June 24th, 2016, 12:16 AM
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I read somewhere that a 12 mm 12 point socket works on the oil pump shaft but I haven't tried it. Pulling the distributor isn't that bad, just make sure you have engine at TDC on the power stroke. The rotor should be pointing at 4-5ish o'clock position and I highly highly recommend you have a 15mm ratcheting wrench for the nut on the retaining clip as it's pretty tight in there. At least for my giant hands it is.
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Old June 24th, 2016, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sflash868 View Post
I read somewhere that a 12 mm 12 point socket works on the oil pump shaft but I haven't tried it. Pulling the distributor isn't that bad, just make sure you have engine at TDC on the power stroke. The rotor should be pointing at 4-5ish o'clock position and I highly highly recommend you have a 15mm ratcheting wrench for the nut on the retaining clip as it's pretty tight in there. At least for my giant hands it is.

this, be sure you have a locking extension or tape your socket to whatever extension you use. I decided mine was primed when i was getting oil to the rocker arms. This is probably where I went wrong.
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  #13  
Old June 24th, 2016, 08:50 AM
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This is probably where I went wrong.
So what happened??


.
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Old June 24th, 2016, 09:37 AM
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So what happened??


.
had to fish my socket out of the front cover. have you ever heard my Range Rover, Im amazed its still runs
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Old June 24th, 2016, 09:47 AM
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had to fish my socket out of the front cover. have you ever heard my Range Rover, Im amazed its still runs
LOL
yeah, I heard it a few years back--cant remember what it sounded like but it looked great!


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  #16  
Old June 24th, 2016, 08:42 PM
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That sounds like a PITA.
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Old June 26th, 2016, 12:49 AM
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So I just packed the pump with vasoline and then cranked the engine with the fuel pump fuse pulled for about 45 secs and it worked. Stayed away from pulling the dizz.
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Old June 26th, 2016, 09:25 AM
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Resurface in what way?
If the cover is badly scored (which will lower your pressure), you can resurface with a piece of plate glass and some fine wet dry paper with some lube. Couldn't find the link that I used but my pressure has been great ever since I did that.
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Old June 26th, 2016, 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevin88RRC View Post
If the cover is badly scored (which will lower your pressure), you can resurface with a piece of plate glass and some fine wet dry paper with some lube. Couldn't find the link that I used but my pressure has been great ever since I did that.
Ah very cool. I dont have an oil pressure gauge installed, so my pressure is either there or not as far as I know.
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