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  #1  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:43 AM
boxerhips
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Tim Riccardi
1995 d90
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Oil pump

I have a 1995 with the V-belt system. I believe the oil pump is external and hope it can be rebuilt with out removing the front cover. I have seen rebuild kits online and wonder if it is worth effort or just purchase a new one. If the whole front cover needs to be replaced then I will have to pass, as it looks like it is over $500.

Thanks Tim
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  #2  
Old May 4th, 2010, 09:56 AM
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Chris Davis
94 NAS D90 6.2LS
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The main housing of the oil pump is built into the front cover. Inside this front cover are the two gears and then you have a lower oil pump base plate. Most the "rebuild" kits I see are new gaskets, pressure overflow cylinder/spring and possibly new caps. The second rebuilt kit also contains new gears. The oil pump base is the most expensive piece, $300-400. I found one at www.thepartsbin.com for $166 new. This piece is in addition to the front cover and pump gears if you were to refresh to "new". Expensive proposition. Other than my massive problems with this pump, most people usually don't have too much trouble, with the most common issue being a sticking pressure relief cylinder. Why are you thinking of replacing? What are your symptoms?
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Old May 4th, 2010, 10:02 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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I hadn't heard about the sticking pressure relief valve. Where is it located? And BTW, is it the same on a 99 D II? What are the signs of it sticking?
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  #4  
Old May 4th, 2010, 10:27 AM
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Chris Davis
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The DII's (and 97 D90s as well as some '95 D90's) have crank driven oil pumps and utilize a serpentine belt set up. These crank driven pumps produce more flow and pressure, especially at idle, but have their glitches too (not as many IMHO).

The large "bolt" on the side of the oil pump base unscrews revealing a long spring and a pressure relief cylinder that slides (hopefully) in it's bore. If you get some dirty oil, often times the cylinder's bore gets a little rough and you get a sticking cylinder resulting in low oil pressure--sometimes my light in my 88RRC will even come on when cruising. There are ways to help with this issue although most say it is not serviceable. You will be able to tell if yours sticks because, when you try and take it out, it won't come out. It needs to move in its bore nice a smoothly when clean (and slightly oiled). If not, there are ways to help that situation or you can get a new pump base. Typically it is not the hardened steel cylinder--it is the bore--so replaceing with a "rebuild kit" usually does not help with the sticking problem. I have used a brake cylinder hone (I cut the leading edges of the stones off so that the pressure point of expansion on the hones where closer to the ends--confusing, but I can take a pic if necessary to show you what I mean) and then used a drill and some lightweight oil to lightly hone the inside of the cylinder (not too much) and then mounted the pressure relief cylinder (which is hollow on one end) on the drill (using a bolt extractor) in the drill and spun it to sort of polish the cylinder until it moved freely (but not sloppy). That helped my RRC. For my D90, I replaced the pump base with the one mentioned above which came with the new cylinder as well.
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Old May 4th, 2010, 11:51 AM
boxerhips
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Tim Riccardi
1995 d90
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Thanks for the fast replies!!

My oil pressure is around 8PSI at idle and hence the oil light starts doing its job. I have removed the spring and installed a washer and this brought the pressure up to around 10PSI, but the light still lights up. I have installed an oil pressure guage (mech) so I know the readings are correct.

So, if it is low pressure it could be the housing itself? It sounds like the gears over time wear down the housing, is this the case?

If it is the housing and one has to be purchased, so I bite the bullet and go serpentine?

Thanks Tim
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  #6  
Old May 4th, 2010, 05:30 PM
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Chris Davis
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Serpentine/crank driven is better, no doubt--so yeah, it could be worth it for you.
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  #7  
Old May 4th, 2010, 06:10 PM
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evilfij
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Make sure that the pick up in the oil pan is clean before spending real money.
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*not legal advice*
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  #8  
Old May 5th, 2010, 11:50 AM
texmoto
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david summers
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Thanks for the info.
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  #9  
Old May 5th, 2010, 12:53 PM
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Chris Davis
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And when you check that the oil pump pick up is clean, Pendy suggests blanking off the bottom (where it attaches to the block) and inverting it, filling it with gas, and checking to make sure that the solder joints are all solid--otherwise the air leak would lessen your oil pressure as well and then make sure you use a good gasket during reassembly. I also use loctite on those bolts. Since you will have it out, seems like a great idea to check that too.
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