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  #41  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 05:47 PM
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Ken Loy
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Tell me how I'm wrong here (I know that lots of you are willing to do that )

What if I took Hans' fitting list, the length of the the hoses, and went to a hydraulic shop. Ask them to make some number of SS or rubber (depending on people's preferences) hoses for us. People could buy the Mocal plate setup directly, and we'd be in business?

That way, no sacrificial parts are needed. It's probably a lot cheaper than the Rover Accessories setup. It sounds as though the hardest part to this all is the hoses and fittings.

Is that in line with what you were thinking ECR Mike?
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  #42  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 09:50 PM
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Chris Davis
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I took a spare set to my local very trusted hydraulic shop and the used these massive crimps and much better hose. Cost be $125 for the set. We discussed stainless steel, and go that route if you want, but I did not see the point. I will use heat deflecting sleeves ($15 from Summit racing). Here is a shot of the stock (brand new) versus what I got. I am happy with this solution. The top is the stock, already "bulging"--this definetely stresses the line, but I don't know nor am I claiming that this leads it to the failure. The crimps, though, definetely don't look as bomber...so if anyone want me to drop their lines by, I will. Elan Motorsports, Dan is the man.
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  #43  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Ken Loy
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From looking at some pics you've posted and looking again at Hans' webpage, I made out this list of parts. Can someone who has already made the mod QA the list for me?

2- 45deg male elbow fittings to radiator (-10 to 1/2 NPT)
2-90deg male elbow fittings with jam nut to sandwich plate (-10 to 1/2 NPT)
Mocal SP1T sandwich plate
1/2 ID hose (30 and 18 with 10 ends)

A few things need checking:
1. Does the radiator fitting need to be brass or is aluminum or steel ok?
2. Can someone check the hose lengths that come with one of the aftermarket setups? I guess I could measure myself, but I'm being lazy.

I found all this stuff on the Racer Parts Wholesale website (http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/). They even have compression hose end fittings which I presume wouldn't need any tools. Anyone with experience able to say whether these will hold up to the pressures we're talking about?
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  #44  
Old August 23rd, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Arthur Maravelis
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Jeez, can't believe people are still undecided on this topic:


1. Hans wrote up his setup. If you like the generic fitting route do it.

2. I wrote up my setup. Uses stock fittings, compression hose fittings and REPLACEABLE hydraulic hose rated at high psi with steel inside. No clamps, no new sandwich plate, no stainless, no Teflon coated hoses. Oh yeah, cad plated hose fittings - whoopie.

Hose is stiff enough to not need support. No need to worry about what the fittings are or what they're made of. You can even cut the stock fittings short at the radiator and motor and reroute the hose (longer now) where you want. have one end made up by the shop with extra length hose, take it home, route it where you want, tape up the end where you want it cut and bring it back to the shop for a final cut.

Cost $50 or less PER LINE !!!!!!! A few bucks more to wrap them. That's a Boston price - imagine what it could be in Kansas.

For the price of one of these overpriced kits you can do your ps lines as well.

Now, what's the problem? Any more questions???
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  #45  
Old August 24th, 2006, 12:58 AM
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Chris Davis
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take a chill pill, art. People are just sharing here--no biggie. You have a good set up, so does Hans. So what? Just don't read this thread anymore if you are bored of it. again, no biggie, no need to shout.
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  #46  
Old August 24th, 2006, 09:59 AM
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I put on the stainless oil cooler lines bought them two months ago, finally got them on last week. easy to do and should work great, plus a little hidden bling to go with my SS brake lines
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  #47  
Old August 25th, 2006, 12:14 PM
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Marc
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Hey Aaron, what torque value did you use for the radiator fittings and the oil housing fittings?.
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  #48  
Old August 25th, 2006, 12:40 PM
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Put some copper grease or teflon tape on the radiator threads. Mine were a bitch to remove.
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  #49  
Old August 25th, 2006, 12:47 PM
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OK will do. What torque values? as per manual?
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  #50  
Old August 25th, 2006, 03:55 PM
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does it hurt to leave the oil lines off while getting them rebuilt? will the oil pump loose its "prime"
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  #51  
Old August 25th, 2006, 04:06 PM
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According to RA, it will not, but said just make sure yur oil filter is primed when reinstalling, and that you will probaly need to top off your oil with one quart.
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  #52  
Old August 25th, 2006, 09:25 PM
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i used the values in my manual, so far so good, it's been two weeks
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  #53  
Old August 25th, 2006, 09:51 PM
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Ok good to know, thanks.
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  #54  
Old August 26th, 2006, 08:03 PM
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Mike - price is no object, but would like to be able to buy a complete kit for '97.
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  #55  
Old February 13th, 2010, 10:44 PM
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All right, after reading about all of this, I figure I am a pretty lucky dude today. I was driving my 94 D-90 around this afternoon (35-40 mph) and I noticed a burnt oil smell and smoke coming from under the passengers seat. At the same time I looked in the rear view mirror and saw I was trailing smoke like I was in a Cheech and Chong movie. Soon after that the oil pressure light came on. I pulled over and oil was all over the place on the passengers side of the engine compartment and as well as pouring out on to the ground. I figure I blew an oil line or something. Does anyone know what happened ( oil cooling line, bad oil pressure sensor)? It as been approx 500 mile since my last oil change. My "Beast" has absolutely no oil in it now. What do I need to do?
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  #56  
Old February 13th, 2010, 10:50 PM
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There's a few options out there, how bad was the damage?

The quick and easy way to test it is to remove the sandwich plate that the oil lines go into, and just throw a filter back on there. It totally removes the oil cooler and oil lines, and will let you diagnose the engine situation without a risk of further failure from the oil lines. As long as there was no damage due to the pressure loss, you can take your time in deciding what route to take regarding replacing the oil lines.

As to how to replace the lines, there's a bunch of great ideas in this thread. I'll honestly say that ANY of the options are good ones, depending on your taste, as long as you don't put factory lines back on there.

You definitely did luck out though, a lot of other guys have the trucks burn to the ground.

Feel free to ask away if you need anything. Lots of good heads with good ideas in this thread.

-Hans
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  #57  
Old February 13th, 2010, 10:59 PM
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I really don't know the extent of the damage. The motor really did not make any "bad" sounds, so I think/hope I am good there. Where is the sandwich plate located and what should I be looking for when I put a new filter on and crank it up?
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  #58  
Old February 14th, 2010, 12:34 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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Pull the drain plug to drain any oil still in there, then pull the filter. It will be pretty obvious what he means by "sandwich plate". It is a plate, about an inch thick that is between the filter and engine. There is a large bolt in the center of it, and the two oil lines are bolted to the side of it. You need to disconnect the lines from the cooler up front, then remove the large nut holding the sandwich plate on. It is probably a good idea to cap the openings on the oil cooler also, especially if you have any intention of using it again. Now just install the oil filter and drain plug and fill 'er up with oil.
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  #59  
Old February 14th, 2010, 03:13 PM
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Hans Haase
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I've got a link in my signature, has some photos for you that shows what the parts look like. There's solid arguements for just eliminating the cooler totally, choice is up to you, and there's really few wrong ways to do it.

Just make sure, when you start the engine, that the oil light goes out right away and that any clattering noises from the engine go away within a few seconds. If the light stays on or the engine stays noisy, shut it down right away, you'll have to re-prime the pump. That's a bit more work, and covered in other posts.

-Hans
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  #60  
Old February 14th, 2010, 05:59 PM
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Dane Block
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Thanks, all of the pictures helped out in identifying the pieces parts. I found a small crack on one of the rubber hoses. It is hard to believe all of the oil was forced out of such a small crack. Since I have an A/C compressor right in the way, I do not have seem to have as much room as you have in your pictures. The ECR pictures show the new line running under the A/C compressor. Do you think there will be a clearance problem? I have attached a couple of pictures to show you how much space I have. I want to keep it as simple as possible. By the way since I have a nice coating of oil all over my engine compartment does anyone have an approved solution on clean up?
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