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  #1  
Old August 29th, 2005, 03:00 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Oil Light

The truck is running rough and the clutch is slipping. Soon for sale maybe! (not).
The thing that worries me is when the oil light comes on. It always happens at a stop after the truck is warm and begins flickering when the RPMs drop to about 700 (where the truck normally idles). There is also a smell of oil around. Any suggestions?
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Old August 29th, 2005, 06:26 PM
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Hans Haase
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How many miles on the oil? Usually mine starts to do that when the oil needs changin.

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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My 100k stopped odometer fix

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  #3  
Old August 29th, 2005, 11:07 PM
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What oil are you running, sometimes that can be fixed by running thicker oil
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  #4  
Old August 30th, 2005, 08:16 AM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Valvoline 10 30. It is pretty hot here in Florida. I think I may have over filled it by a quart. It is about 1/4" over. Could that be it? I cannot see any new leaks.

PS
Don't want to beat a dead horse here, but can I do this to my truck even though it is a '95?

http://www.siegecraft.us/mocal.htm
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Old August 30th, 2005, 09:14 AM
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Chris Davis
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The over fill is not your problem--it would not cause the low oil pressure light from coming on. It is not too uncommon that at low idle some people have it come on or flicker, but it is nothing to fully ignore in my opinion either. There are many things that cause it, from too thin oil to worn pump, but the worn pump is pretty rare. Others with the crank fed pump should chime in, since my experience is with distributor based--but it is not the overfill.
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Old August 30th, 2005, 09:21 AM
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i put in 15-30 which stopped the oil light comming on
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Old August 30th, 2005, 01:20 PM
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Mine did the same thing installed a new sender & presto! the part is cheaper than a oil change
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Old August 30th, 2005, 01:22 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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what's that?
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  #9  
Old August 30th, 2005, 01:37 PM
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Peter Sherman
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i will post a pic later

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  #10  
Old August 30th, 2005, 03:08 PM
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Arthur Maravelis
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You need a pressure gauge anyways so why not fit a good one and start there? If the pressure is indeed low then you can consider oil changes.

My '93 LWB did the same thing with 10W30 and a switch to 10W40 cured it. You need the thicker viscosity while hot - I don't see how going to 15W30 would help. I'm sure it did for Jimmy but...
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Old August 30th, 2005, 05:32 PM
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Michael D. Milliken
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Well my mistake, it's 5w30. Is that a little light? I should have listened and used all climate 20w50 like my lr friend told me! I'll switch it up I guess.
When I also told him the clutch was slipping and I thought I needed to replace it (110K) he laughed and said he has never had to replace a clutch on a defender because it is just too heavy. He had me do this little test to see....
Release the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder
Put it in first (no clutch)
Turn ignition
Go
Shift to second (no clutch)
Floor it
= if there is no slippage, the clutch only needs adjusted.

I am not sure how this makes sense, but it didn't slip as far as I could tell and that's good.
He says I should have free play in the clutch. Like the first inch of movement should have no pressure (mine does). Hmm. Any thoughts? Thanks!
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