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  #1  
Old March 13th, 2007, 05:26 PM
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Oil Leaks Everywhere

i recently switched to 4:11 gearing (i drive a 97) and now hwy speeds of 60-70mph has my rpm's up around 2500. i assume that's normal? hope so, or i've got other problems.

after a trip this weekend where i averaged 2500 rpm's for 3 hrs straight i'm leaking oil everywhere. rear main is really dripping, a trans return line looks like its been compromised a bit, even my front diff pinion oil seal looks ugly (and its brand new).

i have a slight vibration in the driveline between 40 and 60 mph (i think i need new rear links and/or A-arm ext) so i drive at 70-75 mph to avoid going mad. anyone think the vibrations and the high rpm's have caused these seals to all fail?

the weekend before last i was out horsing around in some mud, snow and crossing some deep streams. could i have clogged my breather tubes which is preventing pressure from being released under high temps, resulting in blown seals?

if so, is there a straightforward way to check and clear them?

the safe answer to the first two questions is obviously yes, but has this happend to anyone else or am is this the cost of having two days of fun? ias (its always something)

clay
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  #2  
Old March 13th, 2007, 06:08 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Vibration could be U-joints...if they are on thier way out it is common for R&R to push them over the edge. I would check those to start with. It's british...If it stops leaking you're probably out of oil! Seriously though, rear main's are common as are intakes, heads, front crank seals, front cover gaskets, oil pans and axle and pinion seals. The pinion seal may not have been installed quite right. Sometimes they don't quite seat themselves and if you aren't careful you might not notice before putting it all back together. Also, if there is that much oil leaking it can make it difficult to see exactly what IS leaking and you may not have as many leaks as you think. Start at the top and work your way down. If the heads are leaking, they will leak all over the back and make it look like the rear main. Also, they can leak down the sides covering the oil pan and front diff.
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  #3  
Old March 13th, 2007, 06:44 PM
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thanks, the uj and driveshafts are new so i dont think their causing the vibes and im pretty sure i know where the leaks are stemming from becasue the underside of my truck looks like its been through desert storm. the only places under there that are of any other color than light tan is between the gearbox and the bell housing, the diff pinion and the yoke on my front shaft, and one of the cooler return lines. what's got me is they all failed this weekend during this long trip. i think either everything is clogged up, the vibes are messing things up, or both. who knows?
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  #4  
Old March 13th, 2007, 07:18 PM
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Clay,
What kind of lift are you running? to rule out the drive shafts take them off one at a time and drive it with the center diff lock on. it is really the only way to tell. I have repalced so many u-joints it made me sick... finally got a CV style front shaft and fixed the problem right up. I only have a 2in lift so it truely does depend on the truck.
If it is not the drive shafts start looking at your bushings.

As far as the oil leaks go, you breathers can be clogged, take off the hose from the axle and try to blow some air through it. Otherwise take them one at a time and fix the leaks one at a time, but make sure that what you think is leaking really is.

When it rains it pours, and with rovers it seems to be sunny or a f#^&ng blizzard.
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  #5  
Old March 13th, 2007, 07:42 PM
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Barry O'Mahony
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40
i recently switched to 4:11 gearing

Wow, with gas prices the way they are you still did this?
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  #6  
Old March 13th, 2007, 09:12 PM
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Scott Yates
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One other simple thing to look for. Check your rims to see if you threw a weight off. I have already done it twice with the stock rims, after wheeling. It has been my experience, such that it is, that out of balance tires will have a vibration through a speed range, ie, they start at one speed and seem to stop at another speed a little higher. The failed UJ I have had started vibrating at a speed and never let up.

As for the seals, you may have just filled the front axle tube with water if the breather is not high enough. That will make water/oil come out from everywhere it can as the water heats up. You can pull the breather tube of the axle and blow through it (doesn't taste to good though). If its not clear you can try cleaning it out or just get some more tubing from the parts store, its cheap.

As for the engine, I would start by making sure the pan is tight. The air flying under the truck can throw oil in all kinds of weird directions, including up. Sand will soak oil up like a sponge and can cause it to appear as though the leak is higher than it is.

As you didn't describe the leak I unsure how bad it is. Does it leave a puddle on the floor or is everything just wet looking? I am normally extremely anal about leaks but the quality of the machining I have found so far on my 3.9l has caused me to just watch the fluids as I am sure I will not be able to stop them for long. I change gaskets when it puddles on the floor (bad dog).

As far as the line goes it could have vibrated loose or just picked that moment to go.

If for some ungodly reason you decide to go back to the stock gears, I would gladly pick up yours as I haven't gotten to that yet =)
Hope some of this helps.
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  #7  
Old March 14th, 2007, 11:35 AM
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steve- i'm actually running brand new gbr cv's front and back and still have that silly vibration. i have a little over 2 inch lift using med-duty springs and spring isolators on all 4 corners. im starting to think my truck is cursed. ive ordered rovertym rear links to shorten the wheel base a biit and get my rear pinion lined back up to stock specs. if that fails to do the trick an a-arm extention i understand may be in order. i love the height and stance of the truck otherwise i'd given up long ago. two more tricks left in the bag.

barry- ive found the 4:11's have given me better gas mileage actually. they seem to have thrown me into the proper power curve = less push/strain getting started and going up steep grades.

scott- thanks, i'll double check the weights or better yet have them rebalanced. i was thinking of using equal in the next set of shoes. ever used equal before?
good suggestion on the pan and and checking the breather hoses. i ordered a wading kit to extend my lines up to the bulkhead yesterday so i hope to nip that one in the bud as well.
as for the size of leak, monday morning there was a puddle the size of say a soccer ball under there. i drove about 15 miles away to work and parked where there were no signs of oil on the pavement and last night when i returned i had about the size of a racquetball. i assume that the 3 hr trip casued the oil (and maybe water as well) to expand and seep much worse than a 15 mile trip at far less than 70 mph averages.

thanks all for the helpful suggestions; i've got some work to do.

clay
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  #8  
Old March 14th, 2007, 12:02 PM
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Mike
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I agree with the 4:11 and gas mileage. I'm getting at least as much mileage per gallon as i did b/4 the change if not better.
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  #9  
Old March 14th, 2007, 01:11 PM
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Peter Sherman
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steve- i'm actually running brand new gbr cv's front and back and still have that silly vibration.

are these double cardon shafts? if so you don't have proper alignment= shaft to diff
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  #10  
Old March 14th, 2007, 01:26 PM
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yes,CV = double cardon. my hope is that when i install the new adjustible rear links that'll solve my pinion angle problem; if not my understanding is an a-arm extension is the next trick. after that i yell uncle.
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Old March 14th, 2007, 01:40 PM
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Peter Sherman
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pinion needs to be in line with the drive shaft front & rear.. [+ or - a degree] That is where your vibes are coming from.
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  #12  
Old March 14th, 2007, 01:49 PM
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how does one do that? i thought the rear links played a role in lining up the pinion with the drive shaft and the other way is to adjust the a-arm? are there others also, or are you telling me I need to check the lateral lines as well somehow?
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  #13  
Old March 14th, 2007, 02:00 PM
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Peter Sherman
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i thought the rear links played a role in lining up the pinion with the drive shaft and the other way is to adjust the a-arm?

they do! Thats a fine plan
you will also need to address the front. cranked rad arms or 3 link will work
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  #14  
Old March 14th, 2007, 02:10 PM
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ah, my bad. thanks peter for your patience. i assume i narrowed the vibes to the rear back when i removed the rear ds and ran solo. if the rear links don't do the trick I should re-run that test.
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  #15  
Old March 14th, 2007, 02:15 PM
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Peter Sherman
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IMHO no! it's a waste of time to remove the shafts as you can still have a vib showup.
fix the links & drive if you still have a vib it will be your front shaft.
pm me your email & I will send you a pic.
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