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  #1  
Old August 17th, 2005, 09:22 AM
steved90
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steven melnyk
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OIL Cooler lines TECH page

Morning Chris,

can we get a tech/step by step page dedicated to installing oil coller lines? have been up/down the boards and there is TONS of stuff on them but thought a tech DIY page with maybe some pictures would be good. have heard lots of talk about fires and my condolences to you, so i am going to replace mine if they need it or not.

Thanks,
steved90
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  #2  
Old August 17th, 2005, 04:58 PM
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Nicholas Orros
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I agree with Steve... I'd like to see a write-up if anyone can shed some light.

I'm sorry you didn't get a reply Steve... I think if you 're-registered' and put a name like RoverTits, or RoverLady you'd get quite a few responses.

Great question/suggestion though Steve.

Thanks,

Nicholas
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  #3  
Old August 17th, 2005, 10:59 PM
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They are pretty easy to take on and off, I've had mine on and off a few times only thing you really need is a big wrench to get them off, I'll have to see if I can get a measurement on the size of the nuts for ya.
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  #4  
Old August 18th, 2005, 01:27 AM
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Doug Walker
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Yeah, no need to be timid with these lines. Very straightforward. I used white plumbing tape when reassembling.

Doug W.
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  #5  
Old August 18th, 2005, 09:14 AM
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steven melnyk
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i don't really want this to become the how to page, but thought since we have all those other great tech articles that we could have one dedicated to the replacement of oil cooler lines (since it is always a HOT topic). to be honest with you i am sure it is fairly simple, i actually have never even looked at mine. just got her in jan.
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  #6  
Old August 18th, 2005, 10:05 AM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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Here are some pics of the lines I got a few years ago from Roveraccessories.

Tis
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  #7  
Old August 18th, 2005, 10:16 AM
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What kind of sandwich plate is that you've got working there, Johnathan? Something special?
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  #8  
Old August 18th, 2005, 10:56 AM
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Jonathan, those lines are great
How much where they and do they still sell them.

Thanks
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  #9  
Old August 18th, 2005, 11:52 AM
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I'm in the midst of finishing up the lines on my truck now using the method Hans wrote up using the mocal adaptor. For clarification, the nut on the sandwhich plate is 1 1/16" and the nuts at the cooler are 15/16". I'm using a slightly different method that Hans did to attach to the cooler and am just awaiting the last fittings now. I will, if anybody likes, compile a final parts list when it's done. I can also take pictures, though it'd be hard to improve on Hans' page. FWIW, it's a damn nice setup, I'm VERY happy with how it's coming together. I also pulled my oil pan when I was doing it, cleaned it up inside and out, inspected the pickup and resealed it. Good opportunity to get rid of a leak.

Tony
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  #10  
Old August 18th, 2005, 04:38 PM
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Johnathan Tisdale
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I don't know who makes the sandwich plate but I recall that buying the parts from various sources didn't end up being much less than getting the kit from roveraccessories(unless you go with lower quality parts of course). I don't know if they still sell the kit or not, if not they might give you part #s.

Tis
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  #11  
Old August 18th, 2005, 04:53 PM
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Thanks for the response, Johnathan. I like the way that plate seems to keep the lines further away from the exhaust manifold than one can do with the stock pipes and hoses on the stock plate. Good idea.
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  #12  
Old August 18th, 2005, 06:28 PM
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mine are routing well away from the fan and manifold -- no worries there. It looks as though you may also be able to use a remote oil filter setup from a Ford (thanks, PT). Runs $40 or so from Summit. It won't have the thermostat, but if you're counting dollars . . .
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  #13  
Old August 20th, 2005, 07:05 PM
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Here's what happens -- posted today on the NorCalRover BB:

I was tooling down the road the other day in my D90 with the top off enjoying myself when I noticed white smoke and the smell of oil. My first thought was what poor fool's car was on its last legs; it couldn't possibly be me. To my horror when I looked in the rear view mirror I could barely see the car behind me for the smoke. I quickly pulled over and popped the hood to see my oil cooler line spraying oil directly on my exhaust manifold. I quickly shut it off and got a tow home.
I was lucky it did not ignite and put my car in flames.
Moral of the story: if you D90 is 9, 10, 11 years old, change the oil lines.
QUESTION: what is the cheapest source for oil cooler lines [for a 94 D90 ST].

Dan

Doug W.
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  #14  
Old August 20th, 2005, 11:41 PM
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True, my setup didn't really save me much off the stock parts either, but I am very happy with how the thermostat has performed so far. Anthony, I would like some pics and parts numbers of the attachment to the radiator that you do, to help the next poor bast..... the next person to try the same swap

Doug, how old were your lines?

Worst case, you can also just take the sandwich plate off and not even use the factory cooler if you're worried about the hoses you have, but can't get new ones quick enough.

-Hans
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  #15  
Old August 21st, 2005, 01:33 AM
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I've posted this before, but this is a great time to chime in and re-mention that I took my oil cooler lines to a local hydraulic shop and they rebuild them both in braided steel for under 100 bucks. A hose place is not hard to find, Aeroquip is a major brand name, it just requires a bit of calling around to find a shop that fabricates hoses.
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  #16  
Old August 21st, 2005, 02:45 AM
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So how badly or not does the Rover V8 need an oil cooler. My old 110 with the 2.5L NA diesel seemed to be better off with one. I'm asking because I am putting a 90 together and will be at the point soon where I can either intall one or skip it. If I do use one I can use the 2.5L military diesel one that sit infront of the rad or I have a NAS V8 rad with internal cooler that needs some repair.
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  #17  
Old August 21st, 2005, 04:23 AM
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James Falchetto
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Andrew
Those are the coolers we use here in the desert for the V8's. The core tends to rot away quite fast or get plugged up. Right now I am installing the Deralli kit from Summit ($80 all in), upgrade the fan in the back to pull more air through it (we tried the BM kit but it was too efficient - read caused the coolant to tick over on the hot side). Also upgraded the cooling system by installing electric fans - Nissan Maxima twins readily available at your local scrap yard (FlexALite are hard to come by @ here). The whole thing works great and the oil temperature doesn't go over 190, neither does the water. Radiator was recored courteousy of Serck Marston, low gap, 4 cores. Those are the old type so the oil cooler is not integrated. Since the cars are used in the rough/desert//rocky mountains all the time keeping things separate and compartimented means that parts can be kept for each purpose/application.

The only thing about the sandwich is that the adapter (extension) isn't sold with the LR thread, rather the GM kit. Take it to a turner and for $10 he will make you a new one (prices for those here are rock bottom so not necessarily the right reference). The wire mesh covered hose is great when it comes to protecting the lines from rocks or slicing objects (Ms. Bobbitt doesn't usually make it under the hood but then again you never know), cost here is @ $4 a meter. Earl's plumbing is extra.
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  #18  
Old August 21st, 2005, 10:16 AM
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Hans, my lines were 10 years old when they failed.

Doug W.
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  #19  
Old May 6th, 2006, 10:27 PM
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Ken Loy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrooks
I'm in the midst of finishing up the lines on my truck now using the method Hans wrote up using the mocal adaptor. For clarification, the nut on the sandwhich plate is 1 1/16" and the nuts at the cooler are 15/16". I'm using a slightly different method that Hans did to attach to the cooler and am just awaiting the last fittings now. I will, if anybody likes, compile a final parts list when it's done. I can also take pictures, though it'd be hard to improve on Hans' page.

Tony
Tony, can you post the parts list and some pics of the installation?
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  #20  
Old May 6th, 2006, 11:08 PM
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www.siegecraft.us/mocal.htm

Though, as Tony said, he used a different method for connecting to the actual oil cooler. In fact, I've been wondering what he ended up doing, and if it's better than what I did. Wouldn't mind making the changes on the website if that is the case.

-Hans
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