Oil Cooler Line Replacement - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old August 30th, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Ken Loy
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Oil Cooler Line Replacement

Trying to get a head count for replacement oil cooler lines. Using Hansí and other peoplesí experiences, Iíve put together a kit which would replace the original lines with high temperature, Teflon, stainless steel braided lines, and replace the oil filter housing with a Mocal sandwich plate. Iím not too keen on the ďbling-factorĒ of stainless, but it has the highest tolerance to high temperatures.

Iíve found a place which could manufacture the lines for about $45 each. Add a 90 deg fitting to the sandwich plate and another 45 deg fitting to the radiator and total cost would be $60-ish, per line. Theyíd be 30 inches and 24 inches in length, which is a few inches longer than some kits being sold (which I hear are tight). I think that OEM lines are about $60, by the way.

So the deal would be that Iíd have a group buy (manufacture) of the hoses and all fittings, and send to you. Youíd have to buy the Mocal sandwich plate separately, and I have a couple of sources.

Iím going to order all my stuff today so Iíll have them for install this weekend. Iím just asking for a head-count so I can order a sufficient number of hose kits.

Iím not looking to make any money on this. Iíll pass on actual costs to you, including a share of shipping to me and actual shipping to you. Total cost, then would be about $120 for hoses, $82 for sandwich plate (you buy separately), shipping,

I think this design would only be for the 94s and 95s. I think there's something different with the 97s, and maybe someone could clarify.

Who is interested?
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  #2  
Old August 30th, 2006, 11:01 AM
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You don't need the sandwich plate. You can do it with SS lines and AN fittings using the existing oil cooler adaptor ring and off the shelf Russel fittings.
Give me a couple days and I'll post all the part #s and such.
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  #3  
Old August 30th, 2006, 11:30 AM
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Ken Loy
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Mike, If the lines have straight -10 female fittings, you're saying they could be used with the existing oil filter housing and maybe a different male-male fitting? I was planning on using a 90 deg 1/2" BPT fitting to the Mocal sandwich plate, btw

If so, that'd be a great alternative. Thanks
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  #4  
Old August 30th, 2006, 12:31 PM
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Keith Rider
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I am interested. I have been wanting to replace these lines for a while. Looking forward to the parts list Mike and Ken. Thanks!
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  #5  
Old August 30th, 2006, 02:37 PM
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interested also. seem the factory lines are 100 or so a piece and that stuff from trailhead and roverxcessories is pretty expensive. also I hate to leave the lines off to have them rebuilt not sure how long that would take.
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  #6  
Old August 30th, 2006, 03:21 PM
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Just ordered my kit from Trailhead, I'll post as soon as it's on. Price was not a deciding factor, I've had the factory pieces fail twice on me.
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  #7  
Old August 30th, 2006, 03:57 PM
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Not trying to bash anyone, but the pieces from Russel are better than the Trailhead fittings and you get a little more "bling" for less money. Just FYI.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
i also I hate to leave the lines off to have them rebuilt not sure how long that would take.

If you call ahead a good hydraulic shop can do it while you wait.
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  #8  
Old August 30th, 2006, 04:04 PM
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I asked a place where we get a lot of hydralic hoses made and the guy said he didnt think he could re-use my ends, just replace the hoses and keep the hard parts. The NAPA in town that does hose repair I think would take them a while to get rebuilt. I just worry about the oil pump losing its prime while having all of that stuff off while being rebuilt etc.
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  #9  
Old August 30th, 2006, 07:39 PM
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Mike, I love your (ECR) products, but as you've said you don't take "mail orders". I did try my local hydraulic shop first, and they told me that they could not work with the banjo fittings so I went with the kit I could find that looked good. I make no claims as to the Trailhead product yet, and you may be right. But, I've had two failures of the stock lines within two years, and two lucky catches. I've got too much invested in my 90 to see it in flames. With my luck I'll probably be back in the market for these lines soon.
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  #10  
Old August 30th, 2006, 09:30 PM
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Troy Smith
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Loyd

I am in need of two sets of replacement lines. I just replaced a cracked line on a friends truck this weekend and seeing his lines make me want to replace mine again.

I am anxiously awaiting ECR Mike's post with part numbers.

Thanks!

Troy
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  #11  
Old August 31st, 2006, 01:07 AM
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Ken,
Put me down for a set. I'll keep an eye on this thread and see what we end up with for a final product. Best I do somthing before the whole thing goes up in flames.
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  #12  
Old August 31st, 2006, 01:40 PM
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I'm interested as well. Been putting it off at my peril.

Can someone provide a link to the trailhead set and the roverxcessories set? I'm having trouble finding either. Thank you.
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  #13  
Old August 31st, 2006, 01:46 PM
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I ordered up a single set of lines, fittings and sandwich plate and should have all in hand tomorrow for a weekend install. I'll post some photos and a write-up.

I presume that one could use different fittings to the existing adapter plate and not need the Mocal sandwich plate. Once I remove mine, I'll see if I can figure out the threads.

Price is turning out to be very affordable. I found a place in PA which will make the two stainless steel braided lines for just under $30 each, with all fittings. AB catalog, by the way, shows OEM lines for $63 lower & $80 upper.

Based on the number of responses, once I confirm that the first set fits right, I'll buy about 10 more sets of lines for anyone who wants them. The large quantity of lines got us a 10% discount.
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  #14  
Old August 31st, 2006, 01:49 PM
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Ok, but none of these approaches work on the '97 D90? Right ?

I really need to slide under there and take a look .... wouldn't hurt to address the Disco ('94) at the same time I imagine, eh?

KAA
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  #15  
Old August 31st, 2006, 02:21 PM
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I am looking foreward to hearing your results.
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  #16  
Old August 31st, 2006, 02:28 PM
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Ken Loy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Armstrong
Ok, but none of these approaches work on the '97 D90? Right ?

I really need to slide under there and take a look .... wouldn't hurt to address the Disco ('94) at the same time I imagine, eh?

KAA
Keith, if you figure out the line lengths and fitting types, I'd be happy to line up that order too. Might as well take care of all of us...
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  #17  
Old August 31st, 2006, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Armstrong
Ok, but none of these approaches work on the '97 D90? Right ?

I really need to slide under there and take a look .... wouldn't hurt to address the Disco ('94) at the same time I imagine, eh?

KAA
I did my Tdi lines: get under there, run a string from end to end to get the total length. Cut string. Take out lines and go to local hydraulic shop. Get some Parker or Gates hydraulic compression fittings and hoses. Make sure you give the shop your strings.

Cost is less than $50 per line. You keep your end fittings and replace the hose and crimp with something much better.

Do a search for "Tdi Parker" and you'll find the thread with some pics.

Again, incredible we're still on this issue. Too many of you want a nice, blingy kit than to get them out yourselves and do them over locally for the lowest cost. You can even wait for the shop to do them right in front of you!

Come on, get down on your asses!

Also: what's inside these nice, shiny stainless braided lines? I know it's not cheap hose but the stainless hides any hose damage. For me a thick hydraulic hose with steel inserts is better.
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  #18  
Old September 1st, 2006, 08:30 AM
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The reason I am use AN fittings and SS lines is #1 so that I can route the lines completely away from the exhaust manifold. Better hose or not, I do not want to use upgraded original lines and fittings as they loosely follow the original path and I don't want that. #2 a little bling never hurt anyone. They work good, they look good, nothing wrong with that. I run AN fittings and SS hose on the super high horsepower cars I have and they do not fail and those cars put a lot more stress on the lines than a Rover V8.

A hydraulic hose shop is a good replacement for sure, but if you want to talk "get down and dirty and get it done cheap" just take the dang oil cooler lines off.

Lots of options for different tastes and a guy who wants SS lines isn't "wrong" just because you had a different option.

I'll do the post with pix and part #s just after the weekend, sorry its been hetcic getting the Beach Runner done.
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  #19  
Old September 2nd, 2006, 03:43 PM
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I am going to hopefully install these RoverX lines tomorrow.

Question is this: To remove the oil cooler housing metal piece it seems you need a 32mm wrench or socket. I do not have anything that big and home depot and the Ace here in Vail only go up to 30mm. Anyway, should I be able to remove that big ass nut with a big crescent wrench? For someone who has done this, is there access to get a crescent wrench in there?

Thank you in advance to people who know a lot and do not scoff at people who know little :-)


On a side note, if anyone wants the old set of '94 lines, I'll send them to you.
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  #20  
Old September 2nd, 2006, 05:14 PM
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Chris Davis
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I don't think you will have too much issue using a cressent wrench--there is a rubber gasket between the two halves, so it is not like it has a major torque (by the way, you can use the rubber gasket off an oil filter to replace this gasket--I used mine off my K&N oil filter.
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