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  #121  
Old April 4th, 2008, 02:14 PM
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ECR
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East Coast Rover Co.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhiteD90
In searching for these parts it seems as though the Russell 670560 adapter is unobtainium but it looks like Earl's equivilant part # is 361-9919EFK
Skip those, get a Mocal SP1 oil filter adapt and some 8AN fittings, it works better and cleans up the routing of the lines as well.
That is an old post of mine, we don't do them that way anymore.

The Mocal and some 8AN hose and fittings and you are done.
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  #122  
Old April 6th, 2008, 08:07 PM
cameltrophy90
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Dan Pertl
1997 ST D90
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I'm still mostly a lurker here, but I did want to let you all know that I got my oil lines replaced at Trailhead 4x4 using their new kit for the 1997 D90's. Eric showed me all the stuff that went into creating it, pretty neat stuff. He also says that all of the Discovery V-8's can now be fitted with the upgraded lines as well.
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  #123  
Old April 13th, 2008, 11:11 PM
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John
97 D90 SW
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameltrophy90
I'm still mostly a lurker here, but I did want to let you all know that I got my oil lines replaced at Trailhead 4x4 using their new kit for the 1997 D90's. Eric showed me all the stuff that went into creating it, pretty neat stuff. He also says that all of the Discovery V-8's can now be fitted with the upgraded lines as well.
Dan, have you installed the oil lines yet? any feedbacks on the fit and quality? cost?
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  #124  
Old April 14th, 2008, 08:07 PM
dnp
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David
1995 Defender 90
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I feel the need to ask a question that was asked earlier in this post, but was not answered by anyone: Since the actual radiator oil cooler on these trucks is, for the most part, not effective, is there a reason an aftermarket plate-and-fin external oil cooler should not be utilized? (for example, a B&M cooler installed in front of the radiator) It seems to me that replacing the cooler lines and attaching them to something like that would be the way to go; however, there may be a reason no one is suggesting that mod........any thoughts?
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  #125  
Old April 15th, 2008, 05:23 PM
MonLand
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Loic Fabro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
I feel the need to ask a question that was asked earlier in this post, but was not answered by anyone: Since the actual radiator oil cooler on these trucks is, for the most part, not effective, is there a reason an aftermarket plate-and-fin external oil cooler should not be utilized? (for example, a B&M cooler installed in front of the radiator) It seems to me that replacing the cooler lines and attaching them to something like that would be the way to go; however, there may be a reason no one is suggesting that mod........any thoughts?
I think this has been done. I'm pretty sure the diesel folks do that. I guess the main challenge is space: where do you stick the radiator so it does not get stuff on/in it.
Just curious: what makes you think the system is not effective? Did you (or someone) measure the temperature before and after the radiator? I don't think I've seen numbers.
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  #126  
Old April 15th, 2008, 08:41 PM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Agreed... its #1 on my cheap and easy list to solve this issue.

I think the oil cooler is OK, but it all seems a little over rated (IMO). The thing holds less than a pint of oil and is a single pass unit that is about 15" long (meaning it does not do much). To add a thermostatic plate to this system seems like way overkill to me (in my opinion there is no benefit to keeping that tiny, inefficient cooler out of the loop prior to achieving engine temp.). It isn't a huge cooler that needs that sort of control.
I have a thermostatic cut out for the oil cooler on my 455 Pontiac as it has no choke on the performance carb and runs a 14 pass oil cooler that holds a ton of oil. Its a bear to get going in colder temps so the set up works... but in a Rover V8 with a stock oil cooler, waste... IMO.
MonLand, I haven't done any testing myself. I was just referring to a statement in the above post. Ideally, for the most cooling effect, the oil would run from the oil adapter, to the engine radiator cooler, to the external plate-and-fin cooler, and back to the oil adapter. I don't know how many would go to that effort, but that route would provide the most efficient engine oil cooling.
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  #127  
Old April 20th, 2008, 06:01 PM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Our set up will be posted here in a day or so. I'm doing this pictures for it today.
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

Our set up, and the trail head set up just change the lines, they do not require a new oil cooler adaptor rings (saves maybe 90 bucks).

The Trailhead and other kits, are a pre done kit that you buy and install and you pay someone profit for the kit.

Our set up will be a list of part #s, for free, listed on our web site, for you to go buy on line or weherever you like and make 2 cuts and assemble some fittings. (if you can install lines you can assemble AN fittings)
I have no interest in making money on the set up, I just want less 110s and 90s to burn.

There are 100 ways to solve the problem, here are my suggestions, listed from cheap to expensive. I hope this helps:

1. Remove your oil cooler adaptor, screw the oil filter directly to the engine. Done. No oil cooler lines..........................
For what it's worth, my experience this afternoon didn't find #1 to be the case.

This afternoon, I finally got around to starting the process of replacing my oil cooler lines. My plan was to remove the sandwich plate and oil cooler lines, then reinstall my oil filter so I could drive the truck while I was deciding the way I want to go on the replacement lines (sidebar: unless someone tells me why I shouldn't do it, I think I'm going to replace the lines with SS or some other flexible material and install a B&M stacked plate cooler in front of the radiator - plenty of room, and it appears it will be more efficient than the stock setup). However, I found the threaded oil filter pipe - the one in the block - was too big for me to screw my filter back on. Obviously, that's not a huge problem, as other filters are available. It's just that wanted to post this issue in case someone else planned on making quick work of this and then intended to drive their truck the same day. If you already know which filter fits on a truck without the sandwich plate, you can plan ahead. It's just that I expected the filter to fit right back on but it didn't.

By the way, anyone know which filter DOES fit on a D90 without a sandwich plate?
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  #128  
Old April 20th, 2008, 09:03 PM
dnp
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David
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dnp
For what it's worth, my experience this afternoon didn't find #1 to be the case.

This afternoon, I finally got around to starting the process of replacing my oil cooler lines. My plan was to remove the sandwich plate and oil cooler lines, then reinstall my oil filter so I could drive the truck while I was deciding the way I want to go on the replacement lines (sidebar: unless someone tells me why I shouldn't do it, I think I'm going to replace the lines with SS or some other flexible material and install a B&M stacked plate cooler in front of the radiator - plenty of room, and it appears it will be more efficient than the stock setup). However, I found the threaded oil filter pipe - the one in the block - was too big for me to screw my filter back on. Obviously, that's not a huge problem, as other filters are available. It's just that wanted to post this issue in case someone else planned on making quick work of this and then intended to drive their truck the same day. If you already know which filter fits on a truck without the sandwich plate, you can plan ahead. It's just that I expected the filter to fit right back on but it didn't.

By the way, anyone know which filter DOES fit on a D90 without a sandwich plate?
OK, either frustration had set in or I wasn't holding my mouth right or both.....after I made the last post, I went out and tried to fit the filter again......in about 5 seconds, it threaded on! I have no idea why 10 minutes of trying earlier produced no results.......SO, just wanted to confirm I had a "moment" earlier (apparently, several). The regular filter WILL, in fact, thread on after the sandwich plate is removed..........sorry for the incorrect post.........
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  #129  
Old May 4th, 2008, 01:59 AM
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Jim Ngo
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I upgraded my oil cooler lines by just replacing the rubber section with stainless braided hose. Once you cut off the crimps (I used a dremel with a cutting disc) and pull the old hose off you'll find that it's just a simple slip fit. On the recommendation of the hose shop where I bought the hose, I chose rubber hose over teflon. They warned me that teflon would be more prone to leaking because it was stiffer and may not seal properly.

ECR's solution has the advantage of improved routing of the oil lines further away from the exhaust manifold, but I couldn't have used it anyways because my radiator has the welded/fixed 20mm fittings. But this easy solution works great, looks pretty good, and cost only $52 including the fancy hose clamps.

My parts list:
10" length of 9/16 I.D. stainless braided rubber hose
11" length of 9/16 I.D. stainless braided rubber hose
4 -10 Earl's Econ-O-Fit hose clamps
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  #130  
Old October 7th, 2008, 05:33 PM
cameltrophy90
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Dan Pertl
1997 ST D90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imola
Dan, have you installed the oil lines yet? any feedbacks on the fit and quality? cost?
I had the guys at the shop install the lines when I bought them along with numerous other maintenence items, so I cannot attest to the ease (or difficulty) of installation but everything looks pretty basic. The kit ran me $300.00, a little more than I expected to pay, but the peace of mind is worth it IMHO. I also like the fact that they are not recycled old lines, everything is new and much farther away from the exhaust now. Also no leaks after a whole summer of driving. All in all, I'd do it again if my wife would let me get another D90!
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  #131  
Old December 29th, 2008, 01:37 PM
akfisher
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robert hall
95 d-90sw
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i'm probably the last d-90 owner left to do the oil cooler line replacement upgrade but i finally got around to it this weekend. as everyone else knows the parts needed are very specific to the type of radiator and the size of the bolts on the oil filter adaptor ring. i have the fixed fitting radiator on my 95 d-90 and got the adaptor from ECR that converts the male fitting from the radiator to an 8AN male end. on mine i also had the larger bolts on the adaptor ring and after looking here and asking in town was told that there was no 20mm to 8AN adaptor made. i found one on the internet at pegasusautoracing.com but didnt read the fine print where it says the 20 mm side is machined for a concave seat. this leaves it about 1/4" proud from fully seating in the adaptor ring. i still got it to work by taking it to my friendly airplane mechanic who cut it down to size and polished the end. the ecr website is golden for instructions/pictures. my parts list was as follows
2 fixed fitting radiator adaptors - ECR
2 20mmx8AN adaptors - pegasus auto racing
2 straight 8AN hose ends - jegs
1 90' 8AN hose end - jegs
1 45' 8AN hose end - jegs
3 ft braided stainless steel 8AN hose - jegs
new oil filter - NAPA
2 O rings for radiator adaptor, 2 copper crush washers for oil filter adaptor ring - "borrowed" from my airplane mechanic
teflon pipe tape - free, we all have a half used roll in the junk drawer in the kitchen
total cost about 190$ plus shipping plus one growler beer from local brewpub for my airplane mechanic
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