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  #61  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:43 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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Agreed. Again, I haven't taken a good look at them. So, why not extend the steel line to past the hot zone? Surely a steel line is better than a hose/stainless job here.
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  #62  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:52 PM
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin

Follow-up Post:
Interesting. Have you done any wheeling like this, or lots of low speed / high load type driving?

charles
I was moving so I had the truck loaded up pretty good. The front was jacked up a bit and the rear was sagging. But I haven't done any low-speed wheeling.
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  #63  
Old September 9th, 2006, 02:22 PM
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Steel line, rubber line, titanium line... why run it 2" from an exhaust manifold if the goal of an "oil cooler" is to reduce oil temps.
Couple weeks I should have a 97 "away from the manifold line solution", don't think it will be as easy or pretty as the 93-94 unit though.
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  #64  
Old September 11th, 2006, 02:57 PM
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Jim Ngo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
For the DIY guys. The ECR kit is made of:

30" of #8 SS flex hose
Does anybody have a set handy to measure the length of each hose?

Thanks
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  #65  
Old September 11th, 2006, 05:26 PM
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the trailhead4x4 pieces are on and working...the kit $300, a fire extinguisher $25, the piece of mind: priceless.
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  #66  
Old September 11th, 2006, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
Steel line, rubber line, titanium line... why run it 2" from an exhaust manifold if the goal of an "oil cooler" is to reduce oil temps.
Couple weeks I should have a 97 "away from the manifold line solution", don't think it will be as easy or pretty as the 93-94 unit though.
Thanks for looking into it Mike.
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  #67  
Old September 11th, 2006, 10:30 PM
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Ken Loy
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Ordering

Guys, Sorry for taking so long, but I wanted to make sure I got the installation and the fittings right. I was hoping to get an update on the quote for you today, but I'll get it tomorrow.

I'm ordering up the sets tomorrow and need to confirm the head count. Here's who said they were "in":
Kiefffff
Rover4x4
Treuwer
Troys (2 sets)
CDN38
DanK
D90 Driver
CBass (you're set)

Please confirm for me by email or PM and I'll order them up. Send me your email address too and we'll work out payment and shipping. For those of you in the area or who are going to MAR, we can arrange a hand-off, I'm sure.

ECR and Trailhead 4x4 have some pretty good kits, and don't overlook them. Any way you go, this is a very easy mod. You can look at ECR's website and Trailhead4x4's website which give pretty good step by step instructions. All you'll need is a couple of large combinaton wrenches and maybe large sockets too. If you can change your oil and have a few hours, you can do this.

If anyone else wants me to order a set-up, PM or email me. I'm happy to do it.
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  #68  
Old September 11th, 2006, 11:43 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Thanks Ken, Let me know if you need anything else from me.

bradleeduncan AT gmail DOT com
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  #69  
Old September 15th, 2006, 12:38 PM
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I took out the old oil cooler assembly with a crescent wrench. Easy enough. However, as for the fittings in the radiator:



this is not the original or OE radiator. Does anyone know if this fitting will not work with the kit that I have purchased (RoverX)? I definitely cannot get it out with the crescent wrench, that much is certain.

Follow-up Post:

to clarify: It does not look like the removable type that Mike describes on his ECR site.


I am correct in thinking that?
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  #70  
Old September 15th, 2006, 01:12 PM
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Ken Loy
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Jeff, the top fitting is what i took out of the truck's radiator. For orientation, the right side is what goes into the radiator and the left side connects to the OEM cooler lines. Mine were tough to get off too. Combination wrench. If you can't get them off, though, you could get an adapter fitting (-10 straight thread female to -10 JIC male, i think it's called)
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  #71  
Old September 15th, 2006, 01:33 PM
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Jeff
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Thanks!



So, not to sound stupid here, but judging by the picture, do you think that the fitting is "fixed" for my rad or will come out like yours?
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  #72  
Old September 15th, 2006, 02:40 PM
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Jeff, if it doesn't come off and you strip the flats off that fitting, just leave it in place. I'm sure that you could find a Parker or Aeroquip distributor there off I-70. Yellow pages for "Hydraulics"? (Drive Train Industries, Inc. - Grand Junction, CO shows up on Thomasnet.com) Get an adapter that goes from that fitting on your radiator to the trailhead4x4 line. Come to think of it, you might also check local, good auto parts stores. This shouldn't be too uncommon of a fitting and they might have it in stock.

Hope that helps.
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  #73  
Old September 15th, 2006, 03:04 PM
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Jeff
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very helpful! thanks!


have a great weekend guys! The aspens are changing up here.
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  #74  
Old September 18th, 2006, 11:12 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Jeff, this is the fixed type like mine. The key is that small lock ring. If you look at the pictures on Mike's site he shows both. I'll post pictures of my rebuilt lines as soon as I get them off the camera.

charles

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
I took out the old oil cooler assembly with a crescent wrench. Easy enough. However, as for the fittings in the radiator:



this is not the original or OE radiator. Does anyone know if this fitting will not work with the kit that I have purchased (RoverX)? I definitely cannot get it out with the crescent wrench, that much is certain.

Follow-up Post:

to clarify: It does not look like the removable type that Mike describes on his ECR site.


I am correct in thinking that?
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  #75  
Old September 18th, 2006, 01:37 PM
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Jeff
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I have come to the conclusion that yes, my radiator is not original and is the fixed type fitting, meaning that the hose kit will not just bolt right up. I am going to get 2 adapters for the rad fittings to connect to the bling (blue) fittings. I think I can get these at the Ace hardware here in the plumbing section.
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  #76  
Old September 18th, 2006, 05:17 PM
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Charles Galpin
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So I have the fixed radiator connector and decided the best option for me was to have the existing lines rebuilt. I took them to a local hydraulic line shop in Chantilly, Northern Va called Tipco (http://www.tipcotech.com/) and they brazed on new ends to make changing the rubber portion easy in the future. It cost me $115 and I think they did a great job.

charles
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  #77  
Old September 19th, 2006, 09:12 PM
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Shawn Palmer
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Thanks to everyone here for this thread, I am learning tons. But, I have a couple of questions.
I broke down and bought new lines today for my 97. I want to install them, but need some help from the exprienced. It would be great if there were some step by step instuctions for a 97 install, but haven't seen it here (I may have missed it).
1. Should I drain the oil first?
2. Is it as simple as just removing the old lines and putting on the new ones?
3. What advice can anyone give me about doing this to make it go easy?
4. Do I have to remove the radiator? It doesn't look like I have to, but I read somewhere that it makes it easier.
Thanks in advance.
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  #78  
Old September 20th, 2006, 09:16 AM
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Charles Galpin
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Shawn, I don't have a '97 so I can't provide specifics as I am told the connections on the engine side are different from the '94. However in general terms,

1. No you don't need to drain the oil. But you will need an oil pan to catch the oil that leaks when you remove the lines.
2. Yes
3. use 2 oil pans as oil will drip from 2 places.
4. No. Depending on how much room you have to work, you may find it helps to remove or move the fan shroud to one side.

hth
charles
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  #79  
Old September 20th, 2006, 02:11 PM
Matt Taylor
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MuddyOval
Thanks to everyone here for this thread, I am learning tons. But, I have a couple of questions.
I broke down and bought new lines today for my 97. I want to install them, but need some help from the exprienced. It would be great if there were some step by step instuctions for a 97 install, but haven't seen it here (I may have missed it).
1. Should I drain the oil first?
2. Is it as simple as just removing the old lines and putting on the new ones?
3. What advice can anyone give me about doing this to make it go easy?
4. Do I have to remove the radiator? It doesn't look like I have to, but I read somewhere that it makes it easier.
Thanks in advance.
I, too, searched this site looking for instructions, tips, etc a year and a half ago when I was doing this job. When I found that they didn't exist, I realized that it must be a really easy job that required no special instructions.

The hardest part about it is finding the room to access the connections on the radiator side, but even that wasn't all that hard.
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  #80  
Old September 20th, 2006, 04:31 PM
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Andy Krna
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Where did you order your 97 lines from? Are they just new Rover Parts?
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