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  #41  
Old September 7th, 2006, 10:52 PM
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Ken Loy
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Bradlee, you're "on the list"

Anyone else?
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  #42  
Old September 7th, 2006, 11:53 PM
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Chris Davis
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For heat sleeves, I use summit. This is the one I am ordering..http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
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  #43  
Old September 8th, 2006, 12:10 AM
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Ade
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECR
For the DIY guys. The ECR kit is made of:

Russel fittings:
2x 670560 adapters
2x 610030 straight 8AN
1x 612100 90 8AN swivel
1x 610100 45 8AN

Earls fittings:
1x 981608 #8 to NPT adpater

30" of #8 SS flex hose


Total cost, about $100 bucks, less if you use the JEGS fittings instead of the name brand Russel or Earls.

Yes, the ECR kit will cost more than $100 due to development time and such, but if you have a problem with business and profit, here is your parts list to do it yourself and lets see no more burnt Defenders please.


NOTE!!!!!
This set up is for a stock 1993 NAS 110, 1994 NAS D90 or early NAS 1995 D90 with the removalble fitting type radiator and the 18mm oil cooler adaptor. If you have a fixed fitting radiator or a 20mm oil cooler adaptor you are SOL with this list. Check before you order your parts.
I am not exactly mechanically inclined, can anyone tell me how long it would take to do this? What I need to be care of, or should I not do this myslef?

Any step by step instructions?
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  #44  
Old September 8th, 2006, 01:18 AM
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Bradlee Duncan
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Ken, I might want two sets (one for each rover) and maybe a set for the disco, but I'll have to let you know on those tomorrow. You can put me down for 1 set for sure though. I'll let you know tomorrow. Thanks!

BTW, all the setups are nice, each one has it's perks and would work best on different applications/preferences. Good work to all those that have put these together for the rest of us!
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  #45  
Old September 8th, 2006, 08:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaxx25
I am not exactly mechanically inclined, can anyone tell me how long it would take to do this? What I need to be care of, or should I not do this myslef?

Any step by step instructions?
I gave you the parts list , and basic instructions are here:
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

If you had everything in front of you it would take maybe an hour, if you took beer breaks.

If you aren't a DIY guy, buy the kit.

As for 97 D90s. It isn't that we are stumped, it is that we mainly work on 110s, so that is our focus. In time we will develop something for a 97, but it isn't on the front burner right now.

Follow-up Post:

You guys with 95 D90s, or even 1993 110s and 1994 D90s that are looking into this type of kit (ECR's, Kens, Rover X, trailhead, whatever) need to realize that ALL these kits assume you have the early style radiator. ECR's kit won't fit the later style, nor will Kens, nor will Trailheads.
Many of these Defender have been changed from stock and replacement radiators have been installed etc etc etc.
Check your radiator BEFORE you start ordering a ton of these kits.
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  #46  
Old September 8th, 2006, 08:42 AM
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Phillip
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so what you mean by the radiator? did the ones mentioned above have an external oil cooler? my 95 was built 2/96 so I imagine all the above wont work on my machine?
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  #47  
Old September 8th, 2006, 08:50 AM
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Radiators.... there are different types, 3 technically, but only 2 make a difference here.
Oil cooler adapters.... there are 2 types.

Doesn't matter when your 90 or 110 was buily. It matters what it has in it currently.

If you are buying a kit from Ken, ask him what it fits.

If you want to know what the ECR kit fits visit the ECR web site, don't want to sales pitch stuff here.
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  #48  
Old September 8th, 2006, 09:01 AM
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who care about a sales pitch i think most everyone here is just trying to figure out what works. there are plenty of options availible.
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  #49  
Old September 8th, 2006, 10:29 AM
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Ken Loy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by themaxx25
I am not exactly mechanically inclined, can anyone tell me how long it would take to do this? What I need to be care of, or should I not do this myslef?

Any step by step instructions?
Ade,
these are pretty easy to do. If you can change your oil, you can make this mod yourself. You'll need a 1" and a 1-1/8" open end wrench (I think those sizes are right) and an adjustable wrench.

I'd suggest you buy one of the kits that are already set up instead of buying/building the lines and parts yourself. Only thing different about the set-up that I put together from ECR and Trailhead's set-ups are that this Mocal sandwich plate has a oil temp bypass to it. Other guys can explain better than me how necessary it is.

Mike's ECR website, the Trailhead 4x4 website, and Hans' website all have very good step-by-step instructions on how to make the mods.
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  #50  
Old September 8th, 2006, 10:43 AM
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I put details of what to look for at the bottom of our oil cooler page on the ECR site.

That details what our kit fits for a radiator is listed there. It would also apply to the RoverX, Trailhead and Kens kit as well.
The ECR kit has another limitation as we re-use the oil cooler adapter ring

Its all about the radiator fittings. If you can remove the fittings and end up with a female threaded 3/8 NPT hole in your radiator, these kits will work.

If your radiator has a fixed fitting (see pictures on the ECR site) non of these kits with adaptors that thread into the radiator will work. You'd need a different fitting on the hose side and/or to modify your original hoses.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html



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  #51  
Old September 8th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Un-fugging believable! Mine just sprang a leak today - a pinhole leak spaying oil onto the passenger side manifold. I shut her down and put the fire out quick enough to limit the damage to one plastic line that runs from the top of the engine to a canister on the passenger front nose (not sure what it is yet) afaik.

I'm headed to the hydraulic shop and will soon be able to tell you what my radiator fittings are (I think my radiator is a '97 or an aftermarket).

Change your lines *NOW* guys. You'll save potential damage and towing fees at a minimum.

charles
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  #52  
Old September 8th, 2006, 01:44 PM
Monkeyboy

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Great pictures Mike!

Thanks again,

KAA - yes, I still need to look at the '97 ....
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  #53  
Old September 8th, 2006, 02:28 PM
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Andy Krna
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Someone mentioned that they had their 97 Lines dones by West Coast Rovers. Any experience with this? I tried to get in touch with West Coast but never heard back from them. Maybe us 97ers could do a group purchase.
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  #54  
Old September 8th, 2006, 02:52 PM
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Heres why the 97 lines are a PITA.
The radiator side fitting is a female O ring type. None of the aftermarket places support this type of fitting. The engine side is a male O ring type. Again, race cars and other stuff do not use these fittings so the aftermarket is weak on these parts.
So as far as I can tell you would need to have your original lines remade with better hose and keep your original fittings.
I'm working on a SS line set up for a 97 right now, but at this time it appears I will need to use parts from the original lines, and I didn't really want to do that as like our 93-95 kits, I wanted the oil lines far away from the exhaust manifold.
Below are some pic of 97 lines and where they connect to the engine, just FYI.
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  #55  
Old September 8th, 2006, 02:56 PM
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Antonios Hadjigeorgalis
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For anyone considering removing their lines: The whole fire thing has been freaking me out so I removed my lines a few weeks ago and just last weekend drove from Miami to Baltimore. In one day I drove 12 hours @ 70-80mph with no problems, the temp. was in the middle of the dial as always. This is on my '94.
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  #56  
Old September 8th, 2006, 02:57 PM
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Mine the P/O sleeved in fireproof tubing. Even if it leaks it will not spray out and the tubing insulates from heat from the exhaust.
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  #57  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:00 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Yup, I have the fixed fitting on my radiator, and so I am having my lines rebuilt using the stock ends. If a replacement fitting could be sourced for these, then they could use one of there replacement kits, otherwise just get them rebuilt or go with stock ones (I figure you are likely to get 10+ years out of them). Either way, just replace your existing ones if still stock.

charles

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Antonios
For anyone considering removing their lines: The whole fire thing has been freaking me out so I removed my lines a few weeks ago and just last weekend drove from Miami to Baltimore. In one day I drove 12 hours @ 70-80mph with no problems, the temp. was in the middle of the dial as always. This is on my '94.
Interesting. Have you done any wheeling like this, or lots of low speed / high load type driving?

charles

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij
Mine the P/O sleeved in fireproof tubing. Even if it leaks it will not spray out and the tubing insulates from heat from the exhaust.
I agree 100% - at the very least sleeve them, and then when they go, you'll be ok.

charles
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  #58  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:06 PM
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Agreed... its #1 on my cheap and easy list to solve this issue.

I think the oil cooler is OK, but it all seems a little over rated (IMO). The thing holds less than a pint of oil and is a single pass unit that is about 15" long (meaning it does not do much). To add a thermostatic plate to this system seems like way overkill to me (in my opinion there is no benefit to keeping that tiny, inefficient cooler out of the loop prior to achieving engine temp.). It isn't a huge cooler that needs that sort of control.
I have a thermostatic cut out for the oil cooler on my 455 Pontiac as it has no choke on the performance carb and runs a 14 pass oil cooler that holds a ton of oil. Its a bear to get going in colder temps so the set up works... but in a Rover V8 with a stock oil cooler, waste... IMO.
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  #59  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:06 PM
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I don't mind beating a dead horse: any 97 owner can do their own with a little bit of work for $50 a line. Or, you can wait until someone develops a kit. Not that there's anything wrong with that. Unless you have a fire!

The 97 fittings are just like the Tdi. I haven't taken a closer look at the routing, and I'm sure Mike has, but if there is enough steel pipe close to the manifold then the heat issue is less important. If there is not, then you can braze on an extension and then continue with the new hose. No need to ditch the end fittings.

As for removing the cooler altogether: perhaps someone should do this and hook up an oil temp gauge. I would bet that with dino oil this setup may be just fine; with synthetic most likely.
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  #60  
Old September 8th, 2006, 03:35 PM
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Issue, for me, with rebuild of the factory lines in a 97 is that they go right by the exhaust manifold, and I don't want them anywhere near it, even if it is heat rated hose. I just think its a stupid place for a rubber hose.
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