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  #21  
Old September 4th, 2006, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
Anyway, should I be able to remove that big ass nut with a big crescent wrench? For someone who has done this, is there access to get a crescent wrench in there?
There should be room for a crescent wrench in there. I can't remember if I used that or a 1 5/16" socket (which is close enough), but I definitely remember that I didn't have the correct metric size. It certainly wasn't on tight.
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  #22  
Old September 5th, 2006, 01:51 AM
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Jeremy Schneir
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I would be interested in how they work, my are original from 93. If it works out I would like to purchase some as well.
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  #23  
Old September 6th, 2006, 09:59 AM
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Ken Loy
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I installed my set this weekend and it looks very good. I'm having trouble starting the truck though, and once I figure out that problem, I'll be able to leak check everything and make sure that I got the right fittings.

The hydraulic line shop can make the rest of the kits this week.

You'll need to additionally purchase a Mocal sandwich plate (p/n SP1T) for this installation. Here are two sources:
Fluid Innovators, Florida (www.fluidsysteminnovations.com, Richard, 772-286-0900) $82.50
Racer Parts Wholesale (www.racerpartswholesale.com, 800-397-7815) $79.00

Once I leak check the set-up, I'll order the lines and fittings for you. IF I can get the truck started tonite, I figure that I should be able to send you the lines and fittings by the middle/end of next week. I counted 9 takers. Anyone else?

Remember that I'm doing this AT COST, maybe asking a few bucks for shipping of my stuff. Both lines and fittings will cost about $50-55, plus shipping. (remember that OEM lines are about $70 each)

I'm happy to do this. I figure it's almost as easy to do 10 as it is to do one.

Hopefully another update and pics tonite...
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  #24  
Old September 6th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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Ade
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I'm possibly interested, I have to admit that I am a tad confused as to which setup to go with? ECR's suggestion, what Eric at trailhead has or yours. If someone can explain the differences I would greatly appreciate it.


Thanks in advance,

Ade
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  #25  
Old September 6th, 2006, 10:48 AM
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Our set up will be posted here in a day or so. I'm doing this pictures for it today.
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

Our set up, and the trail head set up just change the lines, they do not require a new oil cooler adaptor rings (saves maybe 90 bucks).

The Trailhead and other kits, are a pre done kit that you buy and install and you pay someone profit for the kit.

Our set up will be a list of part #s, for free, listed on our web site, for you to go buy on line or weherever you like and make 2 cuts and assemble some fittings. (if you can install lines you can assemble AN fittings)
I have no interest in making money on the set up, I just want less 110s and 90s to burn.

There are 100 ways to solve the problem, here are my suggestions, listed from cheap to expensive. I hope this helps:

1. Remove your oil cooler adaptor, screw the oil filter directly to the engine. Done. No oil cooler lines.
2. Cover your existing lines with a heat barrier like the sleeve from JEGS for about 30. This will reflect the heat and direct oil away from the engine (hopefully) if one does blow.
3. Take your existing oil cooler lines to a hydraulic shop and have them put on better hoses with better crimps.
4. Have a hydraulic shop make up all new lines for you with new fittings out of some cool hose. Make them longer so you don't have to go near the exhaust manifold.
5. Buy the needed fittings and hose and install some SS lines and AN fittings to replace your lines (this is what will be posted on our site)
6. Buy the needed fittings and hoses and a new sandwich plate to install SS hoses.
7. Buy a pre-done kit from a Rover parts supplier
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  #26  
Old September 6th, 2006, 01:28 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Ken, I may be interested, but did order a pre-made kit once (don't recall who from) and the radiator side connectors didnt work for me. I think I have a '97 radiator. Maybe at the next get-together we can compare fittings.

I just had my transmission lines done locally at a place called Tipco in Chantilly when putting in a '97 auto tranny cooler. It cost me $150 for 4 new fittings to be brazed on and 2 new rubber lines made up. I might just do the same for the oil lines, or see if I can make up new lines to fit (they are an aeroquip ?sp? distributor).

One issue I have with staying with the stock ends is that I have lost a washer - the kind with a metal outside and rubber inside. Anyone know where I can source these?

charles
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  #27  
Old September 6th, 2006, 03:05 PM
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Here is the slightly "bling" but low cost set up to replace the oil cooler lines on a 1993 NAS 110, 1994 NAS D90 and early 1995 NAS D90.

The adaptor ring is from the 110, you don't need to buy it, you just put the new fittings in your old unit.

More going up on the ECR web site later.
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  #28  
Old September 6th, 2006, 04:16 PM
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Mike, That's a pretty good set-up. Looking forward to seeing the parts list. I'm not sure my radiator is stock and want to make sure I call out the right fitting size. I think it's 3/8 NIP. That sound right?

Charles, thanks for the offer to "compare fittings", but I'm a little shy....
You should be able to find the washer at Auto Zone or another auto parts store. I saw them at Auto Zone the other day, in the nuts and bolts section. Don't use the parts that I posted earlier in the thread. As I was saying to Mike, I got the radiator fittings wrong. Will post the whole parts list soon.

Anyone want my old lines and adapter plate??
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  #29  
Old September 6th, 2006, 04:52 PM
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yeah a parts list would be nice
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  #30  
Old September 6th, 2006, 05:03 PM
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For the DIY guys. The ECR kit is made of:

Russel fittings:
2x 670560 adapters
2x 610030 straight 8AN
1x 612100 90 8AN swivel
1x 610100 45 8AN

Earls fittings:
1x 981608 #8 to NPT adpater

30" of #8 SS flex hose


Total cost, about $100 bucks, less if you use the JEGS fittings instead of the name brand Russel or Earls.

Yes, the ECR kit will cost more than $100 due to development time and such, but if you have a problem with business and profit, here is your parts list to do it yourself and lets see no more burnt Defenders please.


NOTE!!!!!
This set up is for a stock 1993 NAS 110, 1994 NAS D90 or early NAS 1995 D90 with the removalble fitting type radiator and the 18mm oil cooler adaptor. If you have a fixed fitting radiator or a 20mm oil cooler adaptor you are SOL with this list. Check before you order your parts.
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  #31  
Old September 6th, 2006, 06:22 PM
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Jeff
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FYI:

that is the same stuff as the RoverX kit for $280. The kit from RoverX says Earls all over it and looks identical to Mike's pics.

Wish I had known that ...
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  #32  
Old September 6th, 2006, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
FYI:

that is the same stuff as the RoverX kit for $280. The kit from RoverX says Earls all over it and looks identical to Mike's pics.

Wish I had known that ...

and you guys say ECR is the most expensive.....
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  #33  
Old September 6th, 2006, 07:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gore Ranger
FYI:

that is the same stuff as the RoverX kit for $280. The kit from RoverX says Earls all over it and looks identical to Mike's pics.

Wish I had known that ...
Except that the RA kit comes with a new sandwich plate.

Wish I'd known that too...
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  #34  
Old September 7th, 2006, 01:51 AM
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Here's a few photos of what I installed. I'm not totally pleased with the way the lines currently route, and I'm going to see about getting some different fittings, both at the radiator and at the sandwich plate.

Any other thoughts?
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  #35  
Old September 7th, 2006, 11:21 AM
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Red face

Mike - any hope that a kit for the '97 D90 is still in the works?

Thanks - Paul
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  #36  
Old September 7th, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Not by us, sorry. The 97 set up is just too oddball with its fittings and such.

I'm sure someone will come up with something, but for now we are just sleeving 97 lines in the heat sleeve to reduce temps and direct oil away from the manifold in case of a failure.

Sorry.
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  #37  
Old September 7th, 2006, 06:35 PM
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Well.... Anyone else out there had success making the change with a '97? I'm not mechanically savy enough to venture a guess how to accomplish the task, particularly if it has stumped ECR. Is it just the length of the lines and determining the best way of routing them--or would it require all different fittings, etc.

Or am I getting the sense that this it's still up for debate if the '97 even needs to be retrofitted?

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  #38  
Old September 7th, 2006, 07:23 PM
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WOW ken, that setup looks great. You still doing an order if I wanted in on that setup?
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  #39  
Old September 7th, 2006, 08:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pcscharfe
Well.... Anyone else out there had success making the change with a '97? I'm not mechanically savy enough to venture a guess how to accomplish the task, particularly if it has stumped ECR. Is it just the length of the lines and determining the best way of routing them--or would it require all different fittings, etc.

Or am I getting the sense that this it's still up for debate if the '97 even needs to be retrofitted?

I know! Us '97 guys are feeling a little left out. We want in on the oil line fun too. I looked at JEGS but couldn't find the heat sleeve. Is it the spark plug wire heat sleeve that you are using. Part Number? Thanks Mike.
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  #40  
Old September 7th, 2006, 09:10 PM
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Again, search for my thread on my Tdi setup. You can do the same for a 97 and wrap the lines. I plan on doing it to mine once I sort out other problems.
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