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  #21  
Old August 19th, 2009, 07:17 PM
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Julien Dalbin
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Motul Tekma 15W40.
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  #22  
Old August 19th, 2009, 07:24 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by btate
any problems with Rotella 15-40 and using stock LR oil filter? (I still have a few filters left over)
I haven't had any problems, but I haven't really done any testing or research on the subject. As far as I know, the LR filter is made by Wix.
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  #23  
Old August 20th, 2009, 06:20 PM
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Even crower is pushing the ZDDP, I think its somewhere upwards of 1000ppm. Its hard to get that in oils these days.
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  #24  
Old August 31st, 2009, 10:19 PM
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Mike
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Question

Has anybody ever had experience with extreme cam lobe wear due to today's oil makeup? I know there has been several posts on this subject from this site, DiscoWeb and many others. Anybody every discuss the subject with a petroleum engineer to get the real story?


Cheers...
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  #25  
Old September 1st, 2009, 09:15 AM
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Stephan Laputka
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I always ran 10w-30 Mobil 1 High Mileage with a Mobil 1 m-301 filter. On my way back from Moab to NYC I grinded away a tappet and a lobe on the cam. #7 exhaust I believe it was. Motor only had like 50K miles on it. Prior to that oil choice I was running full synthetic 10w-30. Caused my motor to leak so I switched. I have no idea what caused the cam lobe to wear away but maybe it had something to do with oil. I was running at 70 mph (2800-3000 RPMS for me) for about 18 hours when it happened.
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  #26  
Old September 3rd, 2009, 10:09 PM
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Cool

Wow...that's unfortunate. Were you running stock springs/cam?

I just can't imagine the oil being directly related. To my knowledge, the oil performance increases with technology. If the oil was the smoking gun, lot's of Rovers pre 2002 would be having this problem.

Cheers...
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  #27  
Old September 9th, 2009, 12:58 PM
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Eric Lindstrom
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I went to Costco this morning and all they had in synthetic oil was Mobil 1 10w30,5w30 and 15w50.Which if any would you recommend? I'm hoping to do the switch to synthetic this weekend.
Thanks,
Lindy
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  #28  
Old September 9th, 2009, 05:18 PM
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15/50 if you must.
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  #29  
Old September 9th, 2009, 05:25 PM
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Chris Snyder
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look and see if any of those meet ACEA A3/B3
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  #30  
Old September 9th, 2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lindy
I went to Costco this morning and all they had in synthetic oil was Mobil 1 10w30,5w30 and 15w50.Which if any would you recommend? I'm hoping to do the switch to synthetic this weekend.
Thanks,
Lindy
I did shell 5w-40, but what out on synthetic it might leak (more).
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  #31  
Old September 9th, 2009, 06:50 PM
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Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
15/50 if you must.
Why? That's rather thick to be running in IA...
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  #32  
Old September 9th, 2009, 07:21 PM
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Higher shear rating, he asked which of the three.
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  #33  
Old September 10th, 2009, 08:34 AM
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Eric Lindstrom
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Just curious. They are running about $30 for a case at Costco,whereas the 10w40 synthetic at the local parts house is over $9 a quart.
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  #34  
Old August 17th, 2010, 01:36 PM
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Jiman Khosravan
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sump who

Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
So the pump does not lose prime. Also, I fill the oil filter with oil too.

I do it:

1. Drain oil (use oil filter box to block oil from hitting the exhaust) and refit drain plug.
2. Remove filter.
3. Put in 1 gallon of oil.
4. Fill new filter with oil and install.
5. Top up with total oil in at 6 quarts (pull dipstick out 2in or so to allow oil to enter engine properly).
6. Start engine.
7. Make sure oil light goes out.
8. Run for 1-2min.
9. Check oil level and top up additional as needed (usually takes between 6.5 and 7 quarts in total).

You and rover4x4 also had mentioned "Refill the sump before you change your filter."

In the 9 steps above, where would it fall?
and what is the sump pump ??!?!? Sorry NewB

~Jiman
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  #35  
Old August 17th, 2010, 01:51 PM
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drain then refill then change the filter its easy as pie. youll make a huge mess the first time you do it.

Mobil one 10w40 and preferably a NAPA GOLD 1452 filter
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  #36  
Old August 17th, 2010, 01:56 PM
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Charles Galpin
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The sump is the bottom of the engine where the oil sits (oil pan). Jiman, just follow the steps Ron lists. FWIW I skip step 3 but to be clear, step 4 involves pouring some oil into the new filter so it's not empty. But it's really easy.

As Philip says though, expect to make a mess the first time as the oil shoots sideways as it comes out.

hth
charles
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  #37  
Old August 17th, 2010, 02:39 PM
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I usually leave the old filter on when I refill with a gallon.

Also, if you take the box the filter came and open it up and wedge it against the exhaust pipe, it deflects the oil into the pan rather than on the exhaust so it does not smoke on restart. I can change the oil in 15min now including clean up.

I use giant channel locks on the filter to get it off and just use my hand to retighten. Make sure the gasket on the filter comes off with the old one and smear a little oil on the new gasket on the filter before you reinstall.

I use genuine land rover filters or motorcraft FL1A filters.

Ron

------ Follow up post added August 17th, 2010 02:48 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by jijalicious View Post
You and rover4x4 also had mentioned "Refill the sump before you change your filter."

In the 9 steps above, where would it fall?
and what is the sump pump ??!?!? Sorry NewB

~Jiman
You can switch steps 2 and 3. Not wholly necessary if you refill the filter, but it does make the chance of losing prime as close to zero as possible.
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  #38  
Old August 17th, 2010, 09:59 PM
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Andrew J. Hutton
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You can mix multiple viscosities of the same oil to get an in-between mix. So say use half 5w30 and half 15w50 to get about a 10w40 rating. Only with the same oil type, do not mix different stocks together.
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  #39  
Old August 24th, 2010, 09:13 AM
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Jiman Khosravan
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Top-o-da-day-to-ya,

Bought my oil pan, 2 gallons of oil (castrol conventional 20w50), filter 3340 from LR... I was ready to go...then I remembered I didn't have a filter wrench. GRRRR.

So while waiting for another sunny afternoon... do you guys drive the car on the rhinoramps to get room underneath? Given that the car will be at the incline, will that prevent the oil to drain out properly?

~J
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  #40  
Old August 24th, 2010, 09:16 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I can't help but giggle every time I see your login name. Top-o-da-day-to-ya as well.

You don't need a wrench for the filter. If you can't undo it by hand, then hammer a screwdriver through the filter and use it to turn it.

You should also be able to get under the vehicle just fine with the tires on the ground. I think flat is the best orientation to drain the oil anywa (or if anything, slightly low on the drivers side)

I hope you have a garage as it looks like crap weather outside.
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