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  #21  
Old February 24th, 2009, 12:42 PM
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barry f
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I called Four Oaks. They always put in regualr 20/50 weight in defenders. I really don't want to start a regular vs synthetic argument. I just wanted to know what to go buy when I replace my oil lines myself.
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  #22  
Old February 24th, 2009, 04:03 PM
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I tried the Rotella in my Classic, my milage dropped. Ill be going back to the Mobil 10w40.
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  #23  
Old February 24th, 2009, 04:06 PM
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! really? by how much??

Quote:
Originally Posted by rover4x4
I tried the Rotella in my Classic, my milage dropped. Ill be going back to the Mobil 10w40.
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  #24  
Old February 24th, 2009, 07:20 PM
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I've heard that Mobil One 0w40 is a good oil for Rover flat tappet V8s. I think I'm switching over on my next oil change. If it leaks...back to dino.
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  #25  
Old February 27th, 2009, 04:14 PM
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Recent discussion on oil to use in old-style buick-v8 engines:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54420
which led into that other thread:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55081

To be honest, I'd love to have someone go through those threads and extract brand/oil type we can purchase (locally) that will work best in our trucks without plugging the cats (and price next to them so we can pick what we need? ). There are just too many messages in there and unless you write everything down, it's just hard to distilate.
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  #26  
Old February 27th, 2009, 04:52 PM
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I need to add to the stupidity of my question. I know when you change a rover v8s oil you are supposed to drain, refill then change the filter. What is the story if I am installing new lines?
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  #27  
Old February 27th, 2009, 05:30 PM
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Drain, refill 4-5 quarts. Remove filter. Fill new filter with oil. INstall new filter. Top up. Start vehicle. Make sure oil light goes out.
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  #28  
Old February 27th, 2009, 05:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bjf
I need to add to the stupidity of my question. I know when you change a rover v8s oil you are supposed to drain, refill then change the filter. What is the story if I am installing new lines?
I would assume you take the lines off during the "change the filter" step so you don't loose prime. Right? Wrong?
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  #29  
Old February 27th, 2009, 05:39 PM
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where does the lines fall into play? once you drain, you have to remove the filter as I got a new sandwich plate. ummmmmmmm sandwich
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  #30  
Old February 28th, 2009, 12:53 AM
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I have been using this oil in all my flat tappet engines. Including both 454's in my boat. I had a flat tappet motor rebuilt about 1 1/2 ago. We used a conventional motor oil in it and it ate the camshaft all up. When we talked to the people over at Crane cams they informed us that they had seen a lot of this lately and turned us on to this product. I have been very please with these products. http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/whyuse.html
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  #31  
Old February 28th, 2009, 12:59 AM
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I think with the lines you are rolling the dice that you don't lose prime. I don't see a way around it. Refilling the filter before you install will likely prevent loss of prime.
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  #32  
Old February 28th, 2009, 11:01 AM
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how will i be able to tell if i lost prime?
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  #33  
Old February 28th, 2009, 11:05 AM
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no oil pressure.
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  #34  
Old February 28th, 2009, 11:09 AM
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sounds like it is going to be a fun day
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  #35  
Old February 28th, 2009, 11:26 AM
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New Lines Too

Hi,

I just started the oil line replacement. Since I didn't like the price tag of the kits. I first put on a new MOCAL plate with adapters installed and caps. I put the new oil filter on (prefilled with oil). I started it up to make sure the prime wasn't lost. Today, I cut the new lines install them, road test, and then change the oil.

I was shocked when I went to remove the original adapter-- the center "bolt" was barely finger tight! I had the tuck since since new. 95 D-90 SW with 85k miles.

By the way I have only run synthetics since new --either Mobil 1 or Castrol.
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  #36  
Old February 28th, 2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocketman
By the way I have only run synthetics since new --either Mobil 1 or Castrol.
Read the thread on Discoweb, you'll be surprised to what depth you have to take this to know if the oil is right.
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  #37  
Old March 1st, 2009, 12:54 AM
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I would assume you take the lines off during the "change the filter" step so you don't loose prime. Right? Wrong?


Do I not need to change the oil to change the lines?
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  #38  
Old March 1st, 2009, 08:13 AM
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You do not need to change the oil to change the lines. In fact, if you remove the filter and the lines, you stand a good chance of losing the prime. I would just drain everything, remove the lines, pack the pump, and reinstall just to ensure you would have a good start up.
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  #39  
Old March 1st, 2009, 09:10 AM
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I have a new sandwich plate that I am planning to use so I have to remove the filter. This is new to me so can some one explain packing the pump?

Follow-up Post:

Picture of what needs to be done?
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  #40  
Old March 1st, 2009, 09:58 AM
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I had no problems at all. My workshop manual ( original 94/95 MY NAS manual) cautions about removing the filter and draining the sump at the same time. I did mine piecemeal:
1) install new sandwich plate (Mocal temperature controlled). capped input and output ports, installed new filter
2) started engine insuring pressure rose (light went out immediately since the pump did not have to pump through the cooler
3) replaced lines
4) started engine agin insuring pressure rose
5) drained sump and put in fresh oil
6) pulled off filter to get rid of filter full of old oil
.
No problems at all with almost immediate oil pressure rise

Temperature controlled sandwich plate has added advantage of immediate oil pressure rise when cranking the engine and cold (since no oil is flowing to the cooler, just through the filter)

Here is my solution to the iil lines:
1) new Mocal sandwich plate
2) two BSP to AN-10 adapters for the cooler
3) AN-10 adapters with Dowty seals on plate
4)_Earl's Stainless braided AN-10 line
5) 3 Earl's AN-10 hose end -- straight
6) 1 Earl's 45 degree hose end (top of cooler)

Made sure the oil flowing from the adapter flows to the top of cooler

Time to due the above, including cutting the lines and installing hose ends -- about 2 hours

Checked temperature after a road test -- about a ten degree temp drop across the cooler
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