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  #1  
Old August 24th, 2014, 08:41 AM
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Rachael Cates
1997 Defender 90
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officially a Land Rover owner...

We tried making it to Massachusetts and the car stalled while driving on the highway. Car restarted after a few minutes, then stalled again. Then restarted. Then started sputtering a bit. Checked all fluids and they are fine. Oil and battery lights come on after engine stalls. We're driving a '97 Defender. Anyone have any hints for us without having to scroll through? Anyone in the south eastern part of CT willing to help us get our hands dirty and figure it out? Thanks for the help in advance, guys!
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  #2  
Old August 24th, 2014, 08:52 AM
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Kraig
1987 defender 110
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I had a similar issue on a 97 disco and it was the speed sensor in the tail of the transfer case. The ecu didn't see the signal and shut down the ignition.
Wish I was closer to try to help.
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  #3  
Old August 24th, 2014, 08:56 AM
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Ron
1994 NAS Defender 90
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start the truck , then turn the lights on if the are dim it may be the alternator or battery connection

borrow a obII reader (pep boys may run the codes) and see if there are any faults
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no thanks whatever I tell you, you will low ball me
I would rather keep the parts in storage
good luck with your search
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  #4  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:07 AM
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RoverRabbitRachael
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Rachael Cates
1997 Defender 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron View Post
start the truck , then turn the lights on if the are dim it may be the alternator or battery connection

borrow a obII reader (pep boys may run the codes) and see if there are any faults
We have a reader and recently cleared an O2 sensor fault 1193... just have to find time to replace them.

Chris is wondering if it could be the fuel pump or even something as simple as running low on fuel and the indicator is off a little. It stalled once the other day, and both incidences occurred when the indicator was just above the red.

------ Follow up post added August 24th, 2014 09:08 AM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Iamkraig View Post
I had a similar issue on a 97 disco and it was the speed sensor in the tail of the transfer case. The ecu didn't see the signal and shut down the ignition.
Wish I was closer to try to help.
Thanks! We'll vet that possibility and let you know! Wish we had a mentor here too!!!
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  #5  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:25 AM
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Chris & Rachael
1997 Land Rover Defender LE 116
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Womp womp.

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  #6  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:26 AM
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Chris & Rachael
1997 Land Rover Defender LE 116
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Best looking thing on the side of the road.
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  #7  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:38 AM
the rover shop
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shayne young
89,93 & 95 camel trophy 110s 06 130
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On the right side of the fuel rail should be a little tyre valve looking thing..when the car won't start push in the little valve in the centre of it while your lovely wife is cranking the engine... Be careful though as fuel should shoot out with decent pressure.. Not just a little bit but a good deal..if not you have no fuel pump operation..
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  #8  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:39 AM
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Chris
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Congratulations on your first breakdown.
Mine was caused by a lack of gas.......
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A friend of mine runs a land rover / range rover specialty repair shop. Based on his experience, they are capable of stopping anywhere, anytime, at any cost.

I don't know about the brakes, only their unreliability.
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  #9  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:40 AM
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shayne young
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Is your fuel tank low.. When fuel pumps start acting up sometimes you can get a little more life out of them by keeping the tank full, the extra fuel keeps them cooler..

------ Follow up post added August 24th, 2014 09:41 AM ------

Yeah.. My first long road trip in a defender I think I ran out of gas like 2-3 times.. Bloody 14 gallons or something like that...sucks..
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  #10  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:50 AM
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Chris & Rachael
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I want it to be something as simple as the fuel Gage is way off. I will look up/ trouble shoot all mentioned above options. Fill up with gas has been accomplished.
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  #11  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:53 AM
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shayne young
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Look up the birmabright brotherhood.. There may be a land rover nut close to you..
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  #12  
Old August 24th, 2014, 02:40 PM
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Sounds like a problem I had with my Disco. The connector going into ECU had some water and corrosion on it. Cleaned it up and has been great since.

Now on the Disco LR put the ECU in the engine compartment. My 110 doesn't have an ECU, so I don't know where it is on a D90.

I work in Groton, CT, so I could swing by and see if I can spot anything. I think I might have seen your D90 on base.
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the other 25% at least made it home.
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  #13  
Old August 24th, 2014, 02:53 PM
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Chris & Rachael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by red64chevelle View Post
Sounds like a problem I had with my Disco. The connector going into ECU had some water and corrosion on it. Cleaned it up and has been great since.

Now on the Disco LR put the ECU in the engine compartment. My 110 doesn't have an ECU, so I don't know where it is on a D90.

I work in Groton, CT, so I could swing by and see if I can spot anything. I think I might have seen your D90 on base.
It's 99.9% me that you've seen at sub base Groton. There used to be a Blue Series but I haven't seen it in over a year. I'm available when ever you are. I'll be driving home in about 30 mins.
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  #14  
Old August 24th, 2014, 02:58 PM
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PM sent
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75% of all Land Rovers ever made are still on the road...
the other 25% at least made it home.
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  #15  
Old August 24th, 2014, 08:40 PM
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Chris & Rachael
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So after FINALLY Limping the 90 home, after taking care of our OTHER car that decided die yesterday, I have had the pleasure of rolling through MANY stalling/shutdown threads. I haven't been able to trouble shoot yet (due to the other car) but reading through the threads helped...minus electrical hoopla, i'm about a smart as Kim Kardashian when it comes to electronics (Im a Weapons system mechanic on Subs).
So far.... The truck is like how errrbody here explains how their 90 stalls: car starts, runs, drops in rpms, dies, restarts sometimes, runs, sputters then...dies. No codes so far, and can't get past 30mph without stalling. In Neutral engine runs at +/- 900 RPM (with next to no stalling).
Ive narrowed it down potentially (based on frequency of threads/me hoping) to be:
A) Fuel Pump fail
B) Battery/ALT
C) Stepper Motor
D) Idle Control Valve
E) Speed Transducer
F) PCV
G) All of the above
H) Or these guys
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  #16  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:02 PM
the rover shop
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shayne young
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christocat View Post
So after FINALLY Limping the 90 home, after taking care of our OTHER car that decided die yesterday, I have had the pleasure of rolling through MANY stalling/shutdown threads. I haven't been able to trouble shoot yet (due to the other car) but reading through the threads helped...minus electrical hoopla, i'm about a smart as Kim Kardashian when it comes to electronics (Im a Weapons system mechanic on Subs).
So far.... The truck is like how errrbody here explains how their 90 stalls: car starts, runs, drops in rpms, dies, restarts sometimes, runs, sputters then...dies. No codes so far, and can't get past 30mph without stalling. In Neutral engine runs at +/- 900 RPM (with next to no stalling).
Ive narrowed it down potentially (based on frequency of threads/me hoping) to be:
A) Fuel Pump fail
B) Battery/ALT
C) Stepper Motor
D) Idle Control Valve
E) Speed Transducer
F) PCV
G) All of the above
H) Or these guys
Pretty much wipe out the alt.. If there wasn't enough charge you wouldn't be able to start it.. Takes less voltage to run than start..stepper motor and idle control valve is the same thing.. And won't cause the truck to shut off..only comes into play at idle..throttle off.. PVC won't cause the truck to shut off either.. Will cause poor idle and performance if vacuum leak but not shut car down.. Another one you haven't looked at is the crank sensor.. Although it usually lets the car run for a while and then shuts it down..after cooling down lets the process happen all over again..but should flag a code for rpm signal.. Fuel pump MAY cause misfires due to loss of fuel pressures.. But that's rare,.. Check the Schroeder valve on the right side of the fuel rail as mentioned before.. When the car won't start.. IF that shows no fuel pressure it may be a bad power feed to the pump.. But my money is on the pump being bad...when it won't run spray some starting fluid in the intake and if she fires right up it's not getting fuel.. Oh, and another one that you haven't mentioned is the air flow meter.. Easiest to diagnose by substitution on that one..also the cam position sensor can give the same symptoms... Report back...lol...
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  #17  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:06 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Chris, Dan is much smarter than me, but I could stop by after work tomorrow and give you a hand troubleshooting if you'd like. I've battled a stalling '95 D90 before. Ultimately led to a bad rotor, but I changed the fuel pump during the process. I went with the Cadillac version I think. It was $65 vs $300 for a LR one.

Let me know.
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  #18  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:11 PM
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Chris & Rachael
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I was just doing research and was like wow should have kept reading- Figured out what the stepper was (DOH). I will get to this after work tomorrow, I was compiling common themes in threads before i start and what to expect to hit the wallet.
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  #19  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:18 PM
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Chris & Rachael
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steinhnj View Post
Chris, Dan is much smarter than me, but I could stop by after work tomorrow and give you a hand troubleshooting if you'd like. I've battled a stalling '95 D90 before. Ultimately led to a bad rotor, but I changed the fuel pump during the process. I went with the Cadillac version I think. It was $65 vs $300 for a LR one.

Let me know.
Thanks- red64chevelle offered to help too, Maybe I'll grab some pizza's from down the street and we'll make it a party... make it kinda worth your trip. lol
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  #20  
Old August 24th, 2014, 09:30 PM
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Neil Steinhagen
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Ok. Found your address. I'll plan on stopping by after work. Between 4:30 and 5 sound good?
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