OEM fuel pump for $155 - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 22nd, 2008, 06:09 PM
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Javier Velador
'95 D90 / '66 IIA
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OEM fuel pump for $155

My D90 has not been starting consistently the last two weeks. I'm thinking it's the fuel pump that's going. I've seen prices ranging from $290 to $310 from the Rover-specific shops, but found this recently:

http://www.drivewire.com/vehicle/lan...der/fuel-pump/

Anyone ever buy one of these?

Javier

Follow-up Post:

I guess the better question is, based on the picture, does this look like the Correct D90 fuel pump?

Thanks,

javier
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  #2  
Old October 22nd, 2008, 09:38 PM
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Jim Kochenderfer
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I did mine last month....twice. Once in the gravel parking lot of a Colorado motel while on a wheeling trip, and again when I got home. That ain't the pump for a 1994 D90 with a poly tank. Go to Napa and buy the Carter.
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  #3  
Old October 23rd, 2008, 01:21 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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I realize this isn't listed as a part for a 90, but could this pump be made to fit one of ours: http://www.roversnorth.com/store/p-4...ender-110.aspx ?
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  #4  
Old October 23rd, 2008, 01:29 PM
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Carter P74006
Available at Napa, use existing plug
NAPA P74006
89 Cadillac Seville (puts out 30 psi, cut off connector and replace with female spades)
AC Delco EP241 (94 Camaro)(94-95 D90)
Range Rover - GM 462-23 or NAPA part number BK 610-1011
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  #5  
Old October 23rd, 2008, 09:25 PM
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Jim Kochenderfer
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Mike - I'm no expert, but that appears to be a pump for a 110 with a steel tank, not a defender with a poly tank. And based on what I saw when I took mine apart, the pump that you have a link to, and the pump that Javier has a link to, won't work. The best deal is the Carter pump from NAPA. However, I was unable to use the existing plug....so either I was looking at the second pump that had been put in my D90 when I pulled my tank, or the fittings on the Carter have changed. The 90 pump in the poly tank is a giant rube goldberg affair that is spring loaded and the sending unit is all tied to the assembly. Removing just the pump and installing the new one is definitely do-able, but it's not what I'd call a straight-forward walk in the park.
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  #6  
Old October 24th, 2008, 10:33 AM
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Mike Doligalski
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Cool. thanks for the info. I was just thinking it was pretty good price on an actual rover part.... so it might have been a good deal if it could be made to fit.
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  #7  
Old October 24th, 2008, 12:21 PM
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Javier Velador
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Thanks, Jim, Jimmy and Mike... So, for the sake of keeping it simple, I'm going to pay the premium and keep it OEM. So now, the question becomes, is dropping the tank and replacing the fuel pump doable by a your average do-it-yourselfer? Any special tools required?

<rant>Too bad I can't trust the Rover shop in OC anymore, or it would be done. </rant>

Thanks,

Javier
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Old October 24th, 2008, 12:32 PM
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no special tools, take a couple of hours at the most
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  #9  
Old October 24th, 2008, 12:43 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Just remember how much gas weighs and how awkward a tank is to handle when the weight keeps sloshing from end to end...drive it till its on "E" before you start!
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  #10  
Old October 25th, 2008, 12:57 PM
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Jim Kochenderfer
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These were my impressions, yours may differ. This summer there were several posts about rotting, rusting skid plates. So I dropped mine for inspection and to install a 10 ton pintle hitch from tractor supply ($45) and I used the proper reinforcing plate sourced from Expedition Exchange. I powerwashed the skid plate, put POR 15 on the inside and Herculiner roll-on bedliner on the outside. I twisted off several bolts, some got helicoiled, some simply got drilled out and cleaned up with a tap, and all the hardware was replaced. That made replacing my pump three months later, much easier. But, this was an emergency repair far from home. The instructions listed four things that would void your warranty on the pump, failing to select a clean work area, failing to clean out the tank, failing to replace the sock/filter on the bottom of the pump, and test running the pump.....I broke all the rules. In addition, since I was far from home, I didn't have all the tools I would have liked. When removing the old pump, I knicked the fuel supply line that goes from the pump to the output fitting, my clamps were poor, and my electrical connections were not the safest. When I got home I did the job again and I went to NAPA and got a new sock for the bottom of the pump. It was a little too big, but I made it work. It was NAPA part number STS-7 and it cost $10. Maybe someone knows of a smaller sock that is closer in size to the OEM sock. I also needed a piece of 5/16" submersible fuel line to replace the line I knicked. Gates appeared to be the only thing going, it was $20 for a foot and it had to be ordered. Then I remembered seeing the guts of the gas tank of a fuel injected Harley, and, guess what, exactly the same semi-transparent, ribbed, flexible 5/16"fuel line on the Rover OEM pump housing. So I went to my local HD dealer and ordered HD part number 62357-00 for $17.00 and two special clamps HD part number 10222 for $2.70 each. The parts man thought me a bit odd, but he was polite and patient. These clamps take a special crimping tool. Then I had to score some neoprene shrink tubing for the electrical connections. That I found online from Tubing-Express. Regular heat shrink tubing readily available at any hardware store is made from polyolefin and is not rated for immersion in gasoline. So, with those items sourced, I replaced my pump again, and I'm thinking this will be the last time ever...knock on wood. One last thing, the book says to break the fuel line connection over on top of the frame rail, but I found it easier to drop the tank down a little, support it, and then break the connection at the tank. Label the lines for ease of reassembly. You should technically replace the nuts, the compression olives, and the big rubber sealing ring. I sourced those parts as well, but I only replaced the rubber sealing ring, although I thought the one I had still looked good. I also took this opportunity to replace the rubber grommet for the filler neck. Just remember to keep everything clean, clean, clean. Grit, dirt, contamination and running the tank low on fuel kill in-tank electric fuel pumps. This might not be the place for this post, and maybe someone might want to move it, or record the part numbers, or maybe no one will ever read it. Whatever. Here it is. Sorry for being long winded. Good luck.
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  #11  
Old October 25th, 2008, 04:00 PM
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Javier Velador
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Good point, Andrew!

Jim, thanks for the tips. All too often, we try to make these repairs the lazy way, or the quickest. Hell, even many shops cut corners just to get the car done and out of the way. Ask me how I know. Your advice to keep the area clean is invaluable.

Javier
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  #12  
Old November 17th, 2008, 01:02 AM
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Javier Velador
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So after all that, the problem appears to not be the fuel pump. I drained the batter trying to start it different ways, then drove the Series for two weeks. Hooked up jumper cables, and the damn thing started up with no problems. It's been fine for two weeks now.

Sure glad I didn't take it in to any shop. They would have gladly replaced it and taken my $700-800 to replace the fuel pump.

So now, I'm thinking moisture is affecting my ignition system. Time for a complete tune up. Any good shops anyone cares to recommend in the LA area? The one in OC is out of the question.

Javier
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  #13  
Old December 7th, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Question?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JimKo View Post
These were my impressions, yours may differ. This summer there were several posts about rotting, rusting skid plates. So I dropped mine for inspection and to install a 10 ton pintle hitch from tractor supply ($45) and I used the proper reinforcing plate sourced from Expedition Exchange. I powerwashed the skid plate, put POR 15 on the inside and Herculiner roll-on bedliner on the outside. I twisted off several bolts, some got helicoiled, some simply got drilled out and cleaned up with a tap, and all the hardware was replaced. That made replacing my pump three months later, much easier. But, this was an emergency repair far from home. The instructions listed four things that would void your warranty on the pump, failing to select a clean work area, failing to clean out the tank, failing to replace the sock/filter on the bottom of the pump, and test running the pump.....I broke all the rules. In addition, since I was far from home, I didn't have all the tools I would have liked. When removing the old pump, I knicked the fuel supply line that goes from the pump to the output fitting, my clamps were poor, and my electrical connections were not the safest. When I got home I did the job again and I went to NAPA and got a new sock for the bottom of the pump. It was a little too big, but I made it work. It was NAPA part number STS-7 and it cost $10. Maybe someone knows of a smaller sock that is closer in size to the OEM sock. I also needed a piece of 5/16" submersible fuel line to replace the line I knicked. Gates appeared to be the only thing going, it was $20 for a foot and it had to be ordered. Then I remembered seeing the guts of the gas tank of a fuel injected Harley, and, guess what, exactly the same semi-transparent, ribbed, flexible 5/16"fuel line on the Rover OEM pump housing. So I went to my local HD dealer and ordered HD part number 62357-00 for $17.00 and two special clamps HD part number 10222 for $2.70 each. The parts man thought me a bit odd, but he was polite and patient. These clamps take a special crimping tool. Then I had to score some neoprene shrink tubing for the electrical connections. That I found online from Tubing-Express. Regular heat shrink tubing readily available at any hardware store is made from polyolefin and is not rated for immersion in gasoline. So, with those items sourced, I replaced my pump again, and I'm thinking this will be the last time ever...knock on wood. One last thing, the book says to break the fuel line connection over on top of the frame rail, but I found it easier to drop the tank down a little, support it, and then break the connection at the tank. Label the lines for ease of reassembly. You should technically replace the nuts, the compression olives, and the big rubber sealing ring. I sourced those parts as well, but I only replaced the rubber sealing ring, although I thought the one I had still looked good. I also took this opportunity to replace the rubber grommet for the filler neck. Just remember to keep everything clean, clean, clean. Grit, dirt, contamination and running the tank low on fuel kill in-tank electric fuel pumps. This might not be the place for this post, and maybe someone might want to move it, or record the part numbers, or maybe no one will ever read it. Whatever. Here it is. Sorry for being long winded. Good luck.
Hello Jim.....Hope you can clarify something. I would like to replace my flexible lines. The old will work but the fittings are very rusted. AB will only sell the whole line kit...too expensive and unnecessary. The Harley parts you reference, will they work for me? 5/16th is the issue. I wanted to buy some fancy breaded line but the sizes wouldn't work. Help if you can.....I did read your post...Thanks
Mike
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