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  #1  
Old June 11th, 2014, 11:58 AM
Hache
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Not starting & smoking battery

Tried to start the truck this am. Starter motor ran, got a few puffs of smoke from the exhaust and then nothing.

Removed the key and the starter turned a few more times.

Tried to jump start but as soon as I connected the battery pack the battery and pack started to smoke.

I know the alternator needs replacing. But is that it?
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  #2  
Old June 11th, 2014, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hache View Post
Tried to start the truck this am. Starter motor ran, got a few puffs of smoke from the exhaust and then nothing.

Removed the key and the starter turned a few more times.

Tried to jump start but as soon as I connected the battery pack the battery and pack started to smoke.

I know the alternator needs replacing. But is that it?
Sounds like a major short on the Alternator/starter line - stuck starter - or bad battery
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  #3  
Old June 11th, 2014, 12:11 PM
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I think your battery has an internal short or the cables between the battery and the starter are shorting out somewhere.
Remove the battery right now and at the very least store it away from the house. Take it to a car parts store and get it tested. If you rule out an internal short then start checking the wiring, starter, alternator, etc.
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  #4  
Old June 11th, 2014, 12:12 PM
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Sounds like there was insufficient amperage for the starter and the solenoid/bendix is hung up and or your feeble 45amp alternator is shorting out. Unhook the ground clamp from the battery if you haven't already. Bang on the starter with a hammer so the bendix can recoil out of the fly wheel. Your problem may also be a poor ground. Diesels use a ton more amperage to start than gas engines. A gas engine combustion chamber is approx 160-170 psi. A diesel is 400+ psi, so it takes more than twice the power. Weak batteries burn up diesel starters, ie solenoids are switches and when there is insufficient amperage they tend to burn @ contact points as opposed to slamming open and closed like they are designed to.
You need a stronger/bigger/better battery, or a fully charged one @ a min.
BTW your import docs are on the way to me. Will have them to you asap.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 12:52 PM
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Henry Lambert
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Thanks all. Awaiting the tow truck (thank god for complimentary roadside assistance) Is it worth getting 65 amp alternator or will that melt the wiring?


Thanks Doug.
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  #6  
Old June 11th, 2014, 01:18 PM
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Henry,
You should definitely upgrade. You can go beyond 65 amp if you desire. If you go beyond 65 amps, you would need to run a heavy gauge wire (6 gauge or so) from the charge post on the back of the alternator to the large positive lug on the starter, in addition to the brown wire in the engine harness. That way you create a direct charge path to the battery and aren't pushing higher amperage than the original harness can handle .
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Old June 11th, 2014, 01:36 PM
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In your by line, your an LR3 owner, so are we talking Defender problem here OR LR3 ? Assuming Defender then .....

I'd suspect a warped plate inside the battery (internal short), which can be caused by over charging (continuous high voltage) of a faulty alternator. I'd replace both the alt & batt and step up to an 80 Amp alternator. Once a battery is nearing "full", the alternator voltage output should drop back to about 12.8 volts.
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Old June 11th, 2014, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dennis View Post
In your by line, your an LR3 owner, so are we talking Defender problem here OR LR3 ? Assuming Defender then .....

I'd suspect a warped plate inside the battery (internal short), which can be caused by over charging (continuous high voltage) of a faulty alternator. I'd replace both the alt & batt and step up to an 80 Amp alternator. Once a battery is nearing "full", the alternator voltage output should drop back to about 12.8 volts.
ex mod 90 with 2.5 natural.
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  #9  
Old June 11th, 2014, 03:17 PM
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Henry Lambert
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I need to fix the byline Dennis.
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  #10  
Old June 11th, 2014, 03:24 PM
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I would also check the ground once you get it "fixed" with the new alternator.
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  #11  
Old September 15th, 2017, 10:09 AM
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Good information!
I had a similar episode this week. In my case its probably time for a new battery.
Would this also be and indicator that it it time for a new solenoid/starter?

Could anyone suggest some specs for a new battery (cold cranking amps, etc.) since obviously the guy at the parts store won't be able to look it up...
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  #12  
Old September 15th, 2017, 11:01 AM
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"probably" re the need for a new battery suggests that you might consider a quality charger that has a testing function. Everyone who drives old cars needs a charger at the house, imo. Or stop by a chain auto parts store that has the courtesy handheld electrical system testers. O'Reilly's nearby?
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  #13  
Old September 15th, 2017, 11:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Land Rover Daddy View Post
Good information!
I had a similar episode this week. In my case its probably time for a new battery.
Would this also be and indicator that it it time for a new solenoid/starter?

Could anyone suggest some specs for a new battery (cold cranking amps, etc.) since obviously the guy at the parts store won't be able to look it up...
Got an AGM 800CCA from Advanced Auto. Worth the $130 price tag, held a charge for 8 months while my Defender was on the hard
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