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  #1  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:37 PM
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Jason England
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No start in Breckenridge ...

Well it had to happen ... arrived at a hotel, parked up and then went to move it to go to a bar and no start ...

So besides breaking the shock the recent history is thus ....

1. New Alternator
2. cross country drive
3. after about 1000 miles or so the VDO speedo started jumping around a bit always slightly faster. Its intermittent and cause unknown. It's never done this before.
4. today the white signal wire to the coil worked off and truck ground to a halt ... i found it and reconnected it ... all good.
5. Drove up Pikes Peak ... half way up the truck lost power and i pulled over ... the chicklet had disintegrated ... i had a spare that i made out of a couple resistors when i was working on Josh's cut out issues. This is in place and seams to be working OK.
6. Top of Pikes Peak was 2nd gear but although engine warmed a bit ... no apparent issues.
7. collected wife from DEN and drove to Breckenridge ... crawling up the hills seams like very down on power ... but that could be altitude.... stalled on highway in traffic ... rev's just decreased and it stalled. Was still rolling so bumped started it and drove to on... not wanting to face a no start.
8. parked outside hotel to check-in ... restarted after 15 mins no prob.
9.went to room ... returned to car and no start ... checked connects on coil are sound and also the new 'chicklet'
10. I can hear the AICV buzzing when turning off the ignition ( as it should )
11. couldn't start with gas pedal hard down as Jimmy showed me once.

I have a spare AICV that I can try but tonight i'm exhausted and am leaving it for the morning.

I have this doc http://www.g33.co.uk/images/PDFS/14c..._injection.pdf and a multi-meter.

My thought is AICV .,.. what say you?
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  #2  
Old September 8th, 2016, 10:57 PM
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Robert Lynch
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Coil... Or amp module.
AICV would cause stalling but not a 'no start' even fully open at least mine didn't when it failed (ultimate culprit at wintergreen this year)..

Loss of power or studdering is the coil most likely (and overheating on climbs..)

It should start in the morning and you should be able to get a coil that works from the local places (car quest carries the Bosch coil, in stock near you )

My imho...
Be happy to fedex stuff you can't get if I/we have them (I'm volenteering brewie and Brian here...)
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  #3  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:07 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Man I always go to the amp module with weird shite like this....do you have a spare? Regardless, I've also found that if you have a "kill switch" to reset the ECU as well is never a bad idea (or just disconnect the battery).....I've have an intermittent stumbling issue that even if it occurs on the road killing the power brings it right back if I restart on the fly.
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  #4  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:10 PM
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Jason England
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Coil is only a year or so old, genuine bosch and isn't particularly hot. I have an amp module but don't see why this would be intermittent.

Why did it start backup after checkin to then fail to start under the same conditions 15 mins later?

Intermittent is generally a mechanical issue ... loose wire, valve not moving as it should ... this is whats driving my current thoughts!

anyway give me something to do tomorrow!
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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Old September 8th, 2016, 11:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nathanwind View Post
Man I always go to the amp module with weird shite like this....do you have a spare? Regardless, I've also found that if you have a "kill switch" to reset the ECU as well is never a bad idea (or just disconnect the battery).....I've have an intermittent stumbling issue that even if it occurs on the road killing the power brings it right back if I restart on the fly.
i have a spare AICV and amp module ...fortunately!
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  #6  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:11 PM
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Jason Lavender
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Also, for what it's worth pull the cover in the passenger footwell and jiggle the fuel relays and ECU connections. I had a no start a few months ago that was (bizarrely) solved by doing that.
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  #7  
Old September 8th, 2016, 11:28 PM
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1. Do you hear fuel pump? If yes, 2. Do you smell fuel? If yes, 3. Does it try to catch at all? If not, ignition module/coil/loose wire. If yes, cap/rotor. No to 1. Replace silver relay. No to 2. Check/replace ECU (I was futzing with my truck and realized I had two spares in it). Basic hacks to try. 1. Disconnect MAF (puts ECU in open loop) 2. Disconnect alternator (lots of ignition issues are caused by new POS alternators with bad voltage regulators frying stuff especially the ignition module). At the very least put a volt meter on it and rev it up and down and see if the voltage jumps above 14.x. 3. Try starting foot to the floor (as mentioned above). IACV aka stepper motor in English, will cause stalling but I have never seen one cause a no start and won't start foot to the floor. The wonky speedo, down on power etc. makes me think bad alternator fried something (likely ignition module and yes they fail intermittently). Anything other than a Magnito Merrelli or mean green is complete junk in my experience.
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  #8  
Old September 9th, 2016, 03:11 AM
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Also I would check out your grounding wire that connects the battery to chassis to the engine\transmission. There is also another grounding strap that grounds the bulkhead to the back of the engine that can also give you some weird problems.
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  #9  
Old September 9th, 2016, 08:35 AM
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Started right up .... I guess it will come back so troubleshooting is postponed for now! ;-)
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #10  
Old September 9th, 2016, 08:46 AM
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Not sure if it was year ago or two years ago that I got one of the defective Bosch coils that were going around.
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  #11  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:00 AM
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LEASTONCE - The irony!
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  #12  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:10 AM
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Coil.
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  #13  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:14 AM
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My guess would be alternator since its new as are some of these issues. It wasn't lurching like that time when we were going through the Holland and your coil wire had backed off right?

What does the Rover Gauge say?

If all else fails just replace the fuel pump. (Just kidding)
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  #14  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LR Max View Post
Coil.
Agreed.
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  #15  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:45 AM
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Coil does seem quite logical as well. I wouldn't be jumping to IACV or anything like that quite yet because of the sporadic speedometer you'd mentioned. Although it's never bad to clean it up with some carb cleaner now and again.
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  #16  
Old September 9th, 2016, 09:55 AM
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Robert Lynch
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a couple of thoughts...
Since you replaced the Alternator - the Amp module could also be the issue since they seem to be sensitive to voltage changes (and heat)

anyway if you need a care package i have at the house, a used (Good but 130k on it) coil, alternator, Distributor cap, Disti rotor, Amp module, plug wires, and a new IACV - I could ship out
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  #17  
Old September 9th, 2016, 12:39 PM
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Any details on the alternator replacement unit? I've seen a few of those go to crap soon after. That wouldn't cause any of the issues you are describing without blowing fuses. Still, if your VDO speedo is pulling a signal off your alternator, that might be an issue.

I'm still going with a coil.
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  #18  
Old September 9th, 2016, 04:23 PM
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I'm in Grand Junction. The witchcraft spell has worn off and the truck is running great.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #19  
Old September 9th, 2016, 04:37 PM
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I would put a volt meter on it and see if it spikes.
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  #20  
Old September 9th, 2016, 07:24 PM
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I would say the truck doesn't like Breckenridge,,,,,

rover on,,,,
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I would rather keep the parts in storage
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