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  #21  
Old August 19th, 2010, 03:03 PM
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That has got to be it. Search chicklet.

I have never seen one quite like that. They usually fail hot and I have only see one fail.
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  #22  
Old August 19th, 2010, 03:32 PM
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Charles Galpin
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For some reason the blades on this corroded away. It's not like everything else is heavily rusted under the hood.

I couldn't resist taking the resistor out of my D90, and that was the issue - fuel kept pumping on crank when I had it in. So I hooked up the fuel filter and she started right up.

The oil light didn't go off so I didn't run it long. I could hear a slight top end rattle but not much so not sure if the oil light is actually low oil pressure or something else. Thoughts on the oil pressure light? Could it have lost prime sitting there? Anyway to verify?

Oh, the fittings at the fuel filter are frozen and I induced a slight leak on one side undoing/redoing it. What do people typically do here - switch to a filter with connectors that go straight to rubber tubing?

charles
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  #23  
Old August 19th, 2010, 03:35 PM
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It probably lost prime.

How long did it run? Anything more than 30 seconds and I would be concerned.

Yes, upgrade to the other style fuel filter.
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  #24  
Old August 19th, 2010, 03:40 PM
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sweet. Sure you already know this-dissasemble the oil pump and pack it/the gears with petroleum jelly.
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  #25  
Old August 19th, 2010, 03:49 PM
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No, 10-15 seconds max. About as long as it takes to see the check engine light go off and not the oil light and mutter "oh f*ck".

I have never done it before, but will research and pack the oil pump with vaseline - but won't have time to do this until tomorrow (or real late tonight if I can sweet talk Donna into letting me).

Thanks for all the advise guys!

charles

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It probably lost prime.

How long did it run? Anything more than 30 seconds and I would be concerned.

Yes, upgrade to the other style fuel filter.
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  #26  
Old August 19th, 2010, 04:02 PM
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I would let it idle for at least 30 sec since it has been sitting for a year. 10-15 sec is not conclusive. Repack the pump (ought to do the cooler lines while you are in there) and forget about it.
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  #27  
Old August 19th, 2010, 04:04 PM
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I'm too scared to - 30 seconds sounds like an eternity to me. What's the downside to opening up the oil pump and packing it with vaseline other than my time?
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  #28  
Old August 19th, 2010, 04:21 PM
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Nothing. You can do it easier by removing the distributor, taking a long metal rod and cutting a channel in that and using that to prime the pump.

Me, I would do oil cooler lines and pack the pump at the same time.

Ron
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  #29  
Old August 19th, 2010, 04:28 PM
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I do need to do the oil cooler lines at some point yes, and an oil change to be sure - but was going to wait until it was running ok first. Might be the way to go. I also read you could just pen the relief valve and force vaseline in through it.

But I'm also tempted to pull the distributor (Jeff has a rod I can borrow to do the priming with a drill) which has the upside of making completing the ignition module replacement easier, since I have big hands (or I'm just clumsy) and was having trouble getting one of the bolts back in before I dropped it and got it wedged next to the ps pump.

Which way should one rotate the drill if going the rod way? I want to say clockwise based on the firing order.
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  #30  
Old August 19th, 2010, 04:33 PM
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Not sure which way, same as the dizzy spins so I am pretty sure clockwise but I have to look.
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  #31  
Old August 20th, 2010, 10:15 AM
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Clockwise.

Get a oil pressure gauge. You can make one from parts found at any auto store if you need to. This way you can see if you're building pressure while priming with the drill.

If not, pull the oil pan and see if the pick-up is clogged (or gone). Don't worry about buying a gasket to put it back on with; use Right Stuff and you'll never have to worry about leaks.

Before you change the oil, you should dump in some Seafoam or even Marvals Mystery Oil to loosen and thin what ever crusty oil is in there.

On all your connections under the hood, treat them with Amsoil metal spray. This stuff is great. It leaves a nice film over electrical connections that protects them from water ingress or rust. Spray everything with it.
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  #32  
Old August 20th, 2010, 11:31 AM
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Ditto Dan's suggestion. Add a quart to the new oil, run it for a couple hours (or drive it) and change the oil again.
I use Boeshield spray from the boat store.
I'd plan on a couple or three passes of this thru the engine for the first thousand miles or so.
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  #33  
Old August 20th, 2010, 12:04 PM
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If you pull the pan, do the cross seals while you are in there. Again, I am not convinced it actually lost prime, but better safe than sorry. I would skip the MMO or seafoam unless the oil looks bad and it looks gunked up through the filler. With 70k, it is possible, but low miles and simply sitting for a year does not equate to a gunked up motor and seafoam or MMO can hurt if it is really clogged up. I use dielectric grease on all connections.
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  #34  
Old August 20th, 2010, 12:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dchapman View Post
looks like good stuff. need to give that a try
been using a marine product called corrosionx http://www.corrosionx.com/marine.html
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  #35  
Old August 20th, 2010, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
seafoam or MMO can hurt if it is really clogged up.
LOL, how does it hurt? I know it's not some magical hocus-pocus that will do unbelievable things to an engine, all for the better. But people have been using this stuff for yeas-and-years prior to an oil change to release build-up.

Obviously he's not going to use these products if he can't get oil pressure because he will not be able to run the engine. But if the engine does in fact build pressure the these products will cause no harm.

My theory in the matter is this, FWIW:

I think the oil pressure sender is shot. They go bad all the time for no reason and without warning. The oil pump on that engine is pretty robust, and although failures do happen, it's not often.

Sludge could be a problem. It's a long shot, but I guess it's possible.

Of course without seeing the truck and listening to it with my own ear, all of this is a guess. But, I doubt there is a pressure problem. Obviously this needs to be checked with a mechanical gauge before ignoring the oil light on the dash.

The tapping Charles heard was probably pinging from old gas. Stale gas does not burn for shit. I don't know who told you 1-year-old gas was okay, but it's not. That gas has been subject to days that are hot as hell to days where we've had snow on the ground for weeks at a time. There is no doubt in my mind that the old gas has moisture in it and that it's stale.

Personally, if you can't drain all the old gas from the tank, I'd add a bottle or two of gas treatment to the tank, and then top the tank off with fresh gasoline. I'd probably use high test. Once most of that tank is burned, on the next tank use some sort of good fuel injector cleaner like Lucas or BGK.

Again, this is all Internet mechanics and all the chat has to be taken with a grain of salt because diagnosing a truck over the Internet is like tell me you have a pretty girlfriend/wife only to find out in real life she looks like a catfish.

Just start with the mechanical pressure gauge and work from there.


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I use dielectric grease on all connections.
That's fine, but it's sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I like using that stuff on both ends of the spark plug wires, but that's about it. These sprays, like the one from Amsoil, are better suited for connectors and connections. I would dip my whole truck in that shit if I could.
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  #36  
Old August 20th, 2010, 01:00 PM
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Dan,

The non-serp motors lose prime all the time. The odds that it is the sender are very low in comparison to losing prime. It is not like the serp belt trucks like discos and 95 RRCs that have the other style pump which is much better at self priming.

w/r/t MMO or seafoam, if the motor is really gunked up (and we have no reason to believe it is) they can pull the gunk out and clog the oil passages to the valve train which is what I said above. That was my point as to how it could hurt. Again, I don't think it is an issue here. My preference for gunked up engines is for the change to synthetic and change oil filters every 500 or 1000 miles until they are no longer "heavy." Short of pulling it apart, that is the safest way to clean out a gunked motor as it is less aggressive.

Agreed on the old gas, but my point was that it will run on old gas (as it in fact did) -- agreed add fuel treatment (dry gas) and top up with new gas -- but I have not seen pinging at idle. He probably is hearing lifter chatter/rocker tap as all the oil from the top of the motor drained down over the course of the year + it sat and maybe because the pump lost prime.

Internet mechanicing and all.

Ron
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  #37  
Old August 20th, 2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
My preference for gunked up engines is for the change to synthetic and change oil filters every 500 or 1000 miles until they are no longer "heavy." Short of pulling it apart, that is the safest way to clean out a gunked motor as it is less aggressive.
I think I'd use an oil high in detergent such as Rotella-T.
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  #38  
Old August 20th, 2010, 03:15 PM
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First as always, thanks for all the help guys - much appreciated.

I didn't post an update earlier as I didn't want everyone going off on a tangent about ticking and oil pressure unnecessarily but I guess it happened anyway.

Earlier this morning I decided to pack some vaseline into the relief valve port and give it a whirl and it primed immediately (light went out as fast as the check engine light). I ran it for about a minute but it still had a slight tick which concerned me 9and that's why I didn't post).

I had to go to the auto parts store anyway, so at lunch I grabbed some lucas oil stabilizer and did a quick oil change using castrol gtx 20w50 since I had some (used to run this in Janey), along with one of the many WIX oil filters the PO gave me. On restart it took a couple of seconds for the oil light to go out, but the second it did the tick went away. She's running nice and smooth albeit with a little white smoke - not concerned until I finish mounting the ignition module, reset the timing and tighten down the distributor, and put a few miles on it.

So it's looking good. I think I'll change the oil after a few hundred miles and maybe try something like MMO, or drop the pan and do some cleaning then. Gustavo suggested pouring some kerosine in between oil changes to loosen up all the gunk too, but dropping the pan is easy enough.
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  #39  
Old August 20th, 2010, 03:19 PM
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I can swing by and take her for a ride since you are going away!!!
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  #40  
Old August 20th, 2010, 03:25 PM
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Charles,

Look in the oil filler and see if there is build up. A slight tick after sitting for a year is not suprising at all and will probably go away once you drive it around for a few hundred miles. If you are really worried you can pull a valve cover and see if there is gunk.

I still would not mess with kero or MMO or the pan unless you think you actually have a real issue.

The white smoke is probably condensation in the exhaust and it too should go away with use.

Sounds to me like she is ready to roll (once you top up or change the rest of the fluids).

CONGRATS! She could not have gone to a nicer rover person.

Ron
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