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  #21  
Old March 21st, 2013, 10:09 AM
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chris
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check the crank signal at the starter .... i might just be an ignition switch you can get just the electrical part for it .. they were bad since day one
also check the under hood fuse panel for corrosion that's a possibility but little rarer on a d1

if no luck it also might be the security module went bad looks like the pic mounted behind glove box ..you would also need someone with a t4 to re-learn security code

http://landroverparts.roversnorth.co...OVERY-I&key=it
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  #22  
Old March 21st, 2013, 11:02 AM
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So maybe I'm confused, I would think that if there is something blocking the start signal or if it was the ignition switch that the solenoid wouldn't click.

I still need to tow the truck home.
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  #23  
Old March 21st, 2013, 11:28 AM
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first and foremost ..."IT'S A ROVER".......check for a signal at the starter first... if the starter solenoid is clicking then your starter is bad or your battery is dead .... if the module is clicking it might be faulty and might just need to be re-learned to send the proper signal .. the truck might have gone into immobilizer
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  #24  
Old March 21st, 2013, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
So maybe I'm confused, I would think that if there is something blocking the start signal or if it was the ignition switch that the solenoid wouldn't click.

I still need to tow the truck home.
Did you try shorting the starter to see if it turns?

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you cycle the key?

My ex's 96 disco had an ignition switch failure and it did this.
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  #25  
Old March 21st, 2013, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Did you try shorting the starter to see if it turns?

Do you hear the fuel pump run when you cycle the key?

My ex's 96 disco had an ignition switch failure and it did this.
Haven't shorted the starter yet, it's such a small space, but I'll try that next....

Fuel pump runs and solenoid clicks which leads me away from the ignition switch.

Either way, my next troubleshooting take is to attack the starter.
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  #26  
Old March 29th, 2013, 07:48 PM
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FYI, for everyone's education, this ended up being the starter. Popped a new one in and it fired right up.
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  #27  
Old March 30th, 2013, 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Wolf Fabrication View Post
The SRS light is on if that even remotely has anything to do with it.
Now that you have the starter figured out... SRS light can be a variety of issues. If you don't want airbags, remove the fuse, light, the SRS wiring.
If you want to retain airbags, you will need the light cleared (I.e. issue fixed) to make it through VA inspection. Low battery (less than 10V?) will trigger the fault. Only way to clear it is through a T4 (or equivalent; $80 at the dealership... Look for a friend!). I was also told that airbags should be replaced every 10 years (and no, I have not done it).
There is a connector (where?) that gets wet/corroded that can lead to not be able to clear the faults (no idea where it is).
Anyway, just food for thought!
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  #28  
Old March 30th, 2013, 07:47 PM
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Srs .....here's a tip ..disconnect the srs wires under the seats put dielectric grease in the connector re connect and see if the light goes out ....
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