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  #1  
Old December 30th, 2013, 12:02 PM
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Franklin sears
1994 D-90
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No Heat

I'm getting absolutely no heat coming out but the blower works.

should i assume it's a bad thermostat? If so, is this an easy "DIY" project?

Thanks for your help.
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  #2  
Old December 30th, 2013, 12:10 PM
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If it is the thermostat it is about as DIY as they come... what sort of engine?

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  #3  
Old December 30th, 2013, 01:05 PM
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Franklin sears
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i have a 3.9L V8
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  #4  
Old December 30th, 2013, 01:25 PM
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Chris
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Lets start check coolant level and move onwards from there.
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  #5  
Old December 30th, 2013, 02:03 PM
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Jason England
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maybe the heater flap isn't working ... start with the simple stuff ...

what temp do you see on the gauge ... is that working? If that shows normal temp then likely the thermostat is fine!
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  #6  
Old December 30th, 2013, 02:10 PM
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It is easy to check to see if the heater flap is working on the heater box that sits on the firewall in the engine bay. It might be as simple as a cable has come loose. You also have a flap in the lower dash but that just directs the heat to the windshield or the floor. You can pull off one of the trim pieces on the lower dash, 2 screws, to see if the lower flap is working.
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  #7  
Old December 30th, 2013, 02:18 PM
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i'll check the heater flap. the temperature gauge shows it's running normal once warmed up.
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  #8  
Old December 30th, 2013, 04:56 PM
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Jason Zolezzi
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Can you feel air movement at the vents and it's just not getting hot? There are two flaps in the heater box one that stops flow to the plenum and one that bypasses the heater core. It is probably one of those.
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  #9  
Old December 30th, 2013, 07:38 PM
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Does anyone have an exploded diagram of the heat system?
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  #10  
Old December 30th, 2013, 07:47 PM
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from manual I have, hope this helps.



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  #11  
Old December 30th, 2013, 08:05 PM
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If it makes you feel better it doesn't help much when it works
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  #12  
Old December 30th, 2013, 08:20 PM
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John B.
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If you insulate the truck and make sure the heater is in good shape, they are not bad. Back when I had a stock heater, it would keep up at -40 C. My measurements showed my stock heater outputted around 3 kW (10000 btu/h) and 160 cfm, which is not bad and probably on par with the average car. The downside is the core is not very efficient so you need decent coolant temperature for a good air temperature. The stock lower vents are quite restrictive and opening them up helps a lot.

As to the OP, I would put money on the hot cold flap. This is the one on the top of the box. You want the cable to PUSH as hard as possible. If that is OK, check that the hoses are hot.
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  #13  
Old December 30th, 2013, 08:33 PM
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Thanks for posting the pictures! So the way that I'm looking at that thing, when the blower is on; 100% of the air is coming from outside?

When you set the lever on "cool" the flapper bypasses the heater core and puts outside air into the cab.

When the lever is set on "heat" it still brings in 100% outside air, but it passes through the heater core and into the cabin.

Is that right?
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  #14  
Old December 30th, 2013, 08:46 PM
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Yes, that is correct. There is no "inside air" ducting. There is a second flap, on the side, that block all air flow.

The flaps have thin foam glued onto them and the foam can come off and reduce the sealing performance as well. First make sure the cable is adjusted. It takes seconds to re-adjust.
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  #15  
Old December 30th, 2013, 08:47 PM
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Here is another pic (from 97 defender) pretty much same;

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  #16  
Old December 30th, 2013, 11:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Yes, that is correct. There is no "inside air" ducting. There is a second flap, on the side, that block all air flow.

The flaps have thin foam glued onto them and the foam can come off and reduce the sealing performance as well. First make sure the cable is adjusted. It takes seconds to re-adjust.
Thanks! That's the killer then. When it's 0 degF outside, and the coolant is 180 degF you're going to hope and pray that you can get a 50 deg rise out of that goofy little coil and you're blowing 50 degF air on your feet. LOL

I'm almost positive I have an incorrect cable in my truck. It looks like it is 2 feet too long, and sits all the way out on top of the valve cover? There is no adjustment on the end of the cable at the heater box flap.
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  #17  
Old December 30th, 2013, 11:23 PM
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It is not "that" bad. You should get at least 100 to 110 F air temperature even when really cold based on my measurements. It should not be a problem with a V8 as they produce tons of heat.

With the heater I have now, the wife complains about it burning her legs.
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  #18  
Old December 30th, 2013, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
It is not "that" bad. You should get at least 100 to 110 F air temperature even when really cold based on my measurements. It should not be a problem with a V8 as they produce tons of heat.

With the heater I have now, the wife complains about it burning her legs.
HA! Yeah, well, I have a 200Tdi, even when running down the road for 20-30 minutes the temp gauge barely gets about a quarter of the way up the dial.
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  #19  
Old December 31st, 2013, 12:18 AM
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Had this problem on an upstate run back in November. Back flushed the heater core and all kinds of crap came out, suddenly had heat again.
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Present:
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  #20  
Old December 31st, 2013, 07:07 AM
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Radiator Muff's work wonders for the Diesels in the winter cold.
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