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  #21  
Old December 31st, 2013, 07:09 AM
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Mike Ferguson
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I recently had to replace the heater core due to a leak at the hose bib. The heater box was full of 20 years for leaves and there was a lot of junk in the core. So that may be the issue. The most time consuming part of the process was R&R the AC unit in the passenger footwell to get at the lower bolts. While it was out, I installed RIVNUTs on the firewall to allow the heater box to be removed without removing the AC. Just a thought…

Good luck!

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  #22  
Old December 31st, 2013, 08:37 AM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyUpstate View Post
HA! Yeah, well, I have a 200Tdi, even when running down the road for 20-30 minutes the temp gauge barely gets about a quarter of the way up the dial.
Your thermostat is leaking.
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  #23  
Old December 31st, 2013, 08:43 AM
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Danny Harrington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red90 View Post
Your thermostat is leaking.
Thanks again. I am new to these trucks and its hard to figure out what to expect out of them. I'll swap it out and see if it gets better.
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  #24  
Old December 31st, 2013, 08:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyUpstate View Post
Thanks again. I am new to these trucks and its hard to figure out what to expect out of them. I'll swap it out and see if it gets better.
Firstly if you replace it ... Get a genuine LR one. They open at a temp which is not common. Also check what comes in the box matched the desired operating temp ... I've had a different rated one in a box.

Also you can check the operation in a pan of hot water ... That will give you confidence that it works correctly rather than assuming it does!
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  #25  
Old December 31st, 2013, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Firstly if you replace it ... Get a genuine LR one. They open at a temp which is not common. Also check what comes in the box matched the desired operating temp ... I've had a different rated one in a box.

Also you can check the operation in a pan of hot water ... That will give you confidence that it works correctly rather than assuming it does!
I saw on RoversNorth that they stocked 2 thermostats, 1 OEM for $21 and 1 Aftermarket for like $6. For $15 I'll get the OEM one. As a noob it's hard to know what parts are worth getting cheap and what's not for these trucks. I appreciate you fellas and the input.
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  #26  
Old December 31st, 2013, 09:18 AM
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John B.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
Firstly if you replace it ... Get a genuine LR one. They open at a temp which is not common. Also check what comes in the box matched the desired operating temp ... I've had a different rated one in a box.

Also you can check the operation in a pan of hot water ... That will give you confidence that it works correctly rather than assuming it does!
I don't agree here. The 200TDI thermostat (at least the Defender version) is the same as late model Ford V8s. Very common and easy to source.
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  #27  
Old December 31st, 2013, 09:34 AM
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I thought all LR were 88 Celsius and that wasn't a common ford temp. I know there is a similar value but not exact.

Happy to be wrong.
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  #28  
Old December 31st, 2013, 10:22 AM
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195 F which is 90 C is the standard Ford thermostat. That is the same for all intents and purposes. Stant 13779 or 45779 (superstat). The superstat is 192 F and you can also get 180 F versions.
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  #29  
Old December 31st, 2013, 10:41 AM
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Probably tricky to get a gasket locally though. Probably have to cut a new one.
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  #30  
Old December 31st, 2013, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyUpstate View Post
Probably tricky to get a gasket locally though. Probably have to cut a new one.
I cut my own from a roll of blue gasket material I bought in autozone. The only time I used a genuine one it leaked ... Probably due to poor surface prep on my behalf.
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  #31  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 03:57 PM
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Danny Harrington
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OK BOYS! So I grab some nice gasket material from work, go to pull the thermostat housing: NOTHING IN THERE! Well, I guess that's the heat issue.

Problem now: I need some type of vehicle cross reference to get some thermostat that will work properly.

Anyone?
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  #32  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 04:09 PM
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Is it a 200TDI? I mentioned above. Any late model Ford V8. http://www.summitracing.com/int/part.../applications/
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  #33  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 04:11 PM
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Robert Davis
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If you are in NY, go buy the 195 F Ford unit and later switch it out with a genuine one if you like.
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  #34  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 04:27 PM
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Nothing more fun than winter in New York without a thermostat!! It always amazes me what you can find with imported trucks. I remember one guys that found all of the insides of his fuel filter missing.
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  #35  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 05:27 PM
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The fun will be figuring out why it was missing ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #36  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 05:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
The fun will be figuring out why it was missing ...

Yeah that occurred to me. The PO said the head gasket was replaced in the last year. The person who did that work must've known that the thermostat wasn't in there...







BTW- I got NAPA part number 262. It's for a 2000 Ford F-150 and a bazillion other different vehicles. I used this picture from the RockAuto site after I looked up 1992 Discovery 2.5L turbo diesel.
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  #37  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DannyboyUpstate View Post
Yeah that occurred to me. The PO said the head gasket was replaced in the last year. The person who did that work must've known that the thermostat wasn't in there... BTW- I got NAPA part number 262. It's for a 2000 Ford F-150 and a bazillion other different vehicles. I used this picture from the RockAuto site after I looked up 1992 Discovery 2.5L turbo diesel.
The reason the head gasket would be replaced is to solve a overheating problem ... It's a good 8-10hrs work to do it properly.

A thermostats job is to retain heat in the engine then release it to the radiator when it gets too warm.

Without a thermostat the engine would effectively be over cooled ( exactly what you are experiencing ).

Now I personally don't like anyone working on my truck unless I'm stood over them watching everything they do ... Because there are many charlatans and badgers out there taking peoples hard earned money ...

My spider senses are tingling ... You should confirm that the head gaskets were in fact done, not just the thermostat pulled out to mask the problem.

Oh and if you were the person that did the work I'd love to hear why you omitted to put a thermostat back in.
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #38  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:24 PM
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Hrm good questions. The PO was a college kid using a generic diesel mechanic to do the work. I did drive it home 3 hours from Syracuse to Albany with no issues.
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  #39  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by DannyboyUpstate View Post
Hrm good questions. The PO was a college kid using a generic diesel mechanic to do the work. I did drive it home 3 hours from Syracuse to Albany with no issues.
when you say no issues ... what does the temp gauge indicate?

Because if it's not getting warm enough to put any heat into the cabin then it shouldn't be reading very much on the gauge .... equally at anything other than a snails pace it would drop right down to virtually nothing ... I know this because I had a thermostat fail open ...

running a cold engine would drink fuel as the ECU compensates by throwing in more fuel ...

do you have any codes on the ECU readout?
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #40  
Old January 3rd, 2014, 06:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
The reason the head gasket would be replaced is to solve a overheating problem ... It's a good 8-10hrs work to do it properly.

A thermostats job is to retain heat in the engine then release it to the radiator when it gets too warm.

Without a thermostat the engine would effectively be over cooled ( exactly what you are experiencing ).

Now I personally don't like anyone working on my truck unless I'm stood over them watching everything they do ... Because there are many charlatans and badgers out there taking peoples hard earned money ...

My spider senses are tingling ... You should confirm that the head gaskets were in fact done, not just the thermostat pulled out to mask the problem.

Oh and if you were the person that did the work I'd love to hear why you omitted to put a thermostat back in.
You can't mask bad head gaskets with a gutted or no thermostat, the coolant would still be leaking into the motor cause you to burn coolant. What no thermostat does is help make the dummy gauge not show the motor is running hot.
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