NewB oil cooler line question - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 12th, 2011, 09:28 PM
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NewB oil cooler line question

So the d90 I got has stock oil cooler lines. They're in like new shape looking at the outside. I know the lines are a major issue. Have they been known to just blow up or is there a tell tale sign or two that would indicate they are shit and need to be replaced, like the rubber cracking or they start to leak????

I haven't driven it because I just got the title from the PO and was just able to get plates for it, and haven't ordered lines. But, I did buy a fire extinguisher for the little bit that I have been driving it!!
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  #2  
Old January 12th, 2011, 10:01 PM
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One sign is if they look wet, scailey, etc.

Just buy the Trailheads and be done with it...one of the best blingy accessories I've bought so far (probably).
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  #3  
Old January 12th, 2011, 10:28 PM
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Supposedly there have been brand new sets that go. Hasn't happened to me personally, however.

Error on the side of safety and either replace them, or remove the sandwich plate until you can.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 07:57 AM
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There are a bunch of threads about the different options (Trailhead, ECR, make your own, local shop) so you may want to look through them. If you are handy and have time, you can make your own pretty easily with the parts list posted by Hans (and others). We can talk about this more next week at happy hour if you want as there should be a few different options in the parking lot to look at!
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Old January 13th, 2011, 08:01 AM
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I've had 2 sets go. The first resulted in a total loss of #999. When I replaced that 90 the lines looked good so I didn't replace them. They blew about 1yr later. If you don't know the age i'd replace them.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 09:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lordhelemt View Post
I've had 2 sets go. The first resulted in a total loss of #999. When I replaced that 90 the lines looked good so I didn't replace them.


You must love pain! I drove on my rubbers for a few months, but at least they weren't original and had been redirected away from the manifold...was just making excuses for myself really. Kev, you may also try setting up another group buy like rrc.swb did? Seems like we have plenty of new members since the last group buy from Trailhead.

------ Follow up post added January 13th, 2011 09:30 AM ------

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ad.php?t=28433
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  #7  
Old January 13th, 2011, 09:32 AM
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Making my obligatory showing in an oil line thread. Get those stock lines replaced. As mentioned, even visibly good looking ones have let go, as have fairly new factory replacements. For my method, see the link in my signature.

-Hans
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  #8  
Old January 13th, 2011, 10:38 AM
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I almost lost my rover to the oil line failure 2 weeks ago. Luckily I hadn't driven far and the manifolds were cool. I had oil everywhere including the passenger foot well.

Just take the sandwich plate off and put the oil filter back on. I dreaded doing it, but it only took 30 minutes-tops.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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Horsey

Of course you didn't switch them right away. We know maintenance takes a back seat to cosmetics. Literally I am pretty sure you bought a rear badger seat cover instead of doing your rotors.

Eric at trailhead is a great guy. Just order and do it. Easy to do yourself. Just make sure your pump doesn't loose prime while doing it.
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  #10  
Old January 13th, 2011, 12:02 PM
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I removed mine and the sandwich plate years ago.

bill
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  #11  
Old January 13th, 2011, 02:05 PM
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What the shit, Horsey??? I keep hearing how you put new pads over worn rotors and now I read you knew you were driving on borrowed time with original oil lines...

Sell some of those accessories and avoid the screeching noise that's coming from your wheels.
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  #12  
Old January 13th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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I just removed my lines and the sandwich plate. Took no time flat. Basically another 10 minutes added onto an oil change.

Ron
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  #13  
Old January 13th, 2011, 02:24 PM
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Wow, you replaced the oil cooler lines in 10 minutes. That's impressive. It took me and a mechanic with a lift the good and filthy/messy part of 2 hours.
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Old January 13th, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Was a nightmare when I did it in my 110. My fat hands were stuck on the fan.
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  #15  
Old January 14th, 2011, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hans View Post
Making my obligatory showing in an oil line thread. Get those stock lines replaced. As mentioned, even visibly good looking ones have let go, as have fairly new factory replacements. For my method, see the link in my signature.

-Hans
Hans,

Will what you wrote up on your web page also work for a 300 TDi?
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  #16  
Old January 28th, 2011, 10:16 AM
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Getting ready to assemble a set of stainless oil cooler lines. Eric at trailhead4x4 very helpful and can supply fitting kit or entire assembly. I wanted black hose and fittings so attempting to assemble myself. Has anyone done this using fittings that connect to the hose without crimping but using compression fittings that screw on? How about the choice between rubber and PTFE lines hoses?
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  #17  
Old January 28th, 2011, 02:02 PM
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I used this hose along with some Russell AN fittings when I built mine. Not sure it was necessary but for good measure I wrapped it with some Taylor heat shield as well

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-632163/
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  #18  
Old January 28th, 2011, 06:23 PM
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ANother thing I would do when replacing the lines -- replace the sandwich plate with a Mocal thermostatically controlled sandwich plate. Since the ports to the cooler closed on initial startup, oil pressure rises faster. The thermostatically controlled Mocal plate is around $100.
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  #19  
Old January 29th, 2011, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael67 View Post
Hans,

Will what you wrote up on your web page also work for a 300 TDi?
Not that I'm aware of, it's specific to the NAS 3.9

Do the TDI's even have problems with oil line fires/failures?

-Hans
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My oil line fix

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  #20  
Old January 30th, 2011, 09:49 AM
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Kevin I had a local hydraulic shop rebuild mine. They take the hard ends off and braze on standard fittings on the line side and then make new lines. Cheaper than any of the kits. Next time you have standard lines to replace even more cheaply.

I have a used set here if you need cores and want to get some made and not have any downtime other than the swap.

charle
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