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  #21  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Looks to be 12 months or more for a prepaid Badger judging by some of the receint threads.
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  #22  
Old December 2nd, 2012, 07:18 PM
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Hi there Glen, you're just a couple of towns south of me (Mahwah)... If you want to get a "feel" for a ROW 110... shoot me a PM. I just scored one last week and have been loving it... There are lots of knowledgeable people on this board... There are also quite a few Defenders around our area in Bergen cty.

Whichever route you decide to go, good luck with it! These are certainly unique vehicles and folks on this board can make the ownership "easier". It'll be nice to see a 110 ST around town...
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  #23  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 03:02 PM
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Donor

Opinions on this as a donor
http://gmr4x4.com/1984-defender-110.htm

plus $5K for a 300TDI.

Bring back to the states for a Soft Top conversion, paint, interior, etc...?
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  #24  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 03:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbuch21 View Post
Opinions on this as a donor
http://gmr4x4.com/1984-defender-110.htm

plus $5K for a 300TDI.

Bring back to the states for a Soft Top conversion, paint, interior, etc...?
If its here its not a bad deal, but 3 door 110's arent desirable from what i have seen. You should be able to find one with a 200tdi already fitted for that price.
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  #25  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 03:06 PM
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can you get additional photos of the frame and rust prone areas?
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  #26  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gbuch21 View Post
want the interior as "modern" as possible
You have the opportunity to save a lot of money (and time) here by going as "minimal" as possible with the interior.

If you want factory modern carpet, padding, seals, plastic trim, headliner, etc, it really starts adding up.

5 doors are really cool/useful, but restoring them incurs much higher expense due to B-pillars and middle doors. Though if you find an example with pristine parts, then cost is low.

An example of a 3 door 110 soft top is richard hammond's "buster" 110. A bit like a stretch NAS 90.

http://www.landrovercentre.com/mcm_t...senter-page-1/
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  #27  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
If you want factory modern carpet, padding, seals, plastic trim, headliner, etc, it really starts adding up.
Luckily you dont really need genuine to make it look good with that stuff, you can make it look very nice with local places interior stuff, my headliner looks great and its far from genuine.
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  #28  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 05:55 PM
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Buy a truck that is as close to what you want.

If you want a 3 door 300 Tdi then get that. If you want a 5 door V8 then get that. Once you start converting to LHD and swapping motors you are going to be in it for a lot more $ then if you started with say a LHD 300 Tdi and then "restored" that vehicle or modified it to be a ST.

Make sense?
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  #29  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartan View Post
can you get additional photos of the frame and rust prone areas?
Here is his response to that question and attempt to verify cost of 300tdi conversion.



Had my UK side run the numbers we can do the 200tdi for $5k but the 300 is more expensive.

From my UK side
Blue 110 has a super original bulkhead, the frame has had welding, Still strong, 300tdi conversion £3950 (includes service and cambelted) 200tdi conversion £3200.(includes service and cambelt). 200tdi far beter conversion and more torquey.



personally i think this is a better truck left with 2.5 na and keep cheaper.

Would be better to carry a tdi conversion out on a truck 3 years younger. (my oppinion
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  #30  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 06:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Should be easy to do for your budget with a 3 door 110 as a starting point.

Maybe start with something like this

http://www.mod-sales.com/direct/vehi...and_Rover_.htm

Remove the hardtop and get a soft top / stick set from exmoor trim. Have the sticks and hood installed in the UK and you will save yourself a bunch of $$$

Talk to Doug of dividing creek when you want to import it
Alternatively buy a Tithonus with a soft top if they have any. I brought over a LDH 110 hard top just like that one a couple of months ago and am in the process of getting it more to my liking. The benefit with them is the UK MOD picked the best of the 110 fleet for refurbishment in the Tithonus project, installing new "Outlast" trim seats from Exmoor Trim, sound proofing, wolf tops, wolf wheels, Safety Devices roll cage, all in all about 11k bucks was spent on each one before they were sold off due to changing requirements.

------ Follow up post added December 3rd, 2012 06:35 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by gbuch21 View Post
Here is his response to that question and attempt to verify cost of 300tdi conversion.



Had my UK side run the numbers we can do the 200tdi for $5k but the 300 is more expensive.

From my UK side
Blue 110 has a super original bulkhead, the frame has had welding, Still strong, 300tdi conversion £3950 (includes service and cambelted) 200tdi conversion £3200.(includes service and cambelt). 200tdi far beter conversion and more torquey.



personally i think this is a better truck left with 2.5 na and keep cheaper.

Would be better to carry a tdi conversion out on a truck 3 years younger. (my oppinion
Hmm, not sure the facts are right about the engines there. In Defender spec, a 200Tdi develops 107bhp at 3,800 rpm, and 188lb ft at 1,800rpm. The newer 300Tdi develops 111bhp at 4,000rpm, and 195lb ft at 1,800rpm. In the UK 300Tdi's comand a premium over 200Tdi's as they are seen as a more refined and smoother engine. The R380 gearbox which the 300Tdi uses is a lot smoother than the 200Tdi's LT77 box.
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  #31  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 06:50 PM
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...don't forget, as is with any projects, you will always spend double (or triple) the original estimated costs. it's always cheaper on paper!

I'd say buy a nice runner and evolve it slowly into what you want. As others stated, if you want a 300tdi and LHD, make sure you start with that... good luck!
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  #32  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 06:53 PM
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use ebay.co.uk to find out how much a Tdi engine sells for ... and then tell me that yours is going to be special .. one careful owner ... low mileage ... fully serviced ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #33  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leastonce View Post
use ebay.co.uk to find out how much a Tdi engine sells for ... and then tell me that yours is going to be special .. one careful owner ... low mileage ... fully serviced ...
I don't know what you mean, they are all one careful owner, low mileage and fully serviced.....for at least the first couple of months.....
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  #34  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:13 PM
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I don't know what you mean, they are all one careful owner, low mileage and fully serviced.....for at least the first couple of months.....
And the newest ones are about 10 years old now ...
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Soapy water / KY jelly, etc. is is basically a must. Yes, good idea to remove trim panels - only takes 5 more minutes to do so.
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  #35  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:17 PM
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And the newest ones are about 10 years old now ...
Last I checked the 300tdi is made to this day, for markets outside of Europe and military...
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  #36  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael110 View Post

Alternatively buy a Tithonus with a soft top if they have any. I brought over a LDH 110 hard top just like that one a couple of months ago and am in the process of getting it more to my liking. The benefit with them is the UK MOD picked the best of the 110 fleet for refurbishment in the Tithonus project, installing new "Outlast" trim seats from Exmoor Trim, sound proofing, wolf tops, wolf wheels, Safety Devices roll cage, all in all about 11k bucks was spent on each one before they were sold off due to changing requirements.

------ Follow up post added December 3rd, 2012 06:35 PM ------

Hmm, not sure the facts are right about the engines there. In Defender spec, a 200Tdi develops 107bhp at 3,800 rpm, and 188lb ft at 1,800rpm. The newer 300Tdi develops 111bhp at 4,000rpm, and 195lb ft at 1,800rpm. In the UK 300Tdi's comand a premium over 200Tdi's as they are seen as a more refined and smoother engine. The R380 gearbox which the 300Tdi uses is a lot smoother than the 200Tdi's LT77 box.


Actually just got thru talking to a guy across the pond with the exact suggestion and he has a MOD softop to use as a donor. Should have some prices in the morning on the work needed, but it sounded do-able.

Thanks for all the help everyone. -- will keep u posted.
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  #37  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by gbuch21 View Post
Actually just got thru talking to a guy across the pond with the exact suggestion and he has a MOD softop to use as a donor. Should have some prices in the morning on the work needed, but it sounded do-able.

Thanks for all the help everyone. -- will keep u posted.
Standard MOD soft top or "wolf" style? They are slightly different in size (the "wolf being bigger to fit over the roll cage) and made from different materials, the standard being Canvas and the "wolf" being strengthened PVC.
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  #38  
Old December 3rd, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Michael110 View Post

Standard MOD soft top or "wolf" style? They are slightly different in size (the "wolf being bigger to fit over the roll cage) and made from different materials, the standard being Canvas and the "wolf" being strengthened PVC.

Standard, I believe. Regardless, the idea would be to fit a more substantial roll bar system and a custom top.
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  #39  
Old January 7th, 2013, 01:06 AM
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Who's Doug? I imported my truck using Skytop in Philly. It only cost me a total of $2000- $2100. First- you have to do a lot of research (I didn't have this good site to give me advise) I learned by doing 1 year every day research. You must learn what is allowed in the country. Then go to the UK and pick out a truck-the engine must be 21 y/o and the truck must be 25y/o. (I have a lot of family there so this was not much of a task). Buy your lift kit and all the things that you want in or on your truck in the UK (it sounds like a lot due to the weak dollar $1= 1.60 pound aprox) but it's much cheaper than buying the stuff here. I was lucky to have my family find a mechanic to do the work there in the UK. Then call several RI and compare the prices to import the truck for you. Skytop took care of me. However, you have to do your research. The RI will rob you even if you know your stuff. I had my car driven to East Sussex near London. The port was about 6 miles from where the car was and I still end up paying $300 to tow the car to the port in East Hampton. It really only cost 1 pound per mile to tow if you do your research. Find a shipping Co. I used one that start with a W.- I can't remember the name. It cost me about $1000 just to ship. You'll have to pay duty and customs through a BROKER. That's another $600 - $800. Then you need an Escort to take you to the docks. Just add another $200 - $400. You can drive out of the docks. But you must have insurance and reg. before the truck is released. If not, you'll need to tow the truck from the dock. The best docking is either FL. or Baltimore. STAY AWAY from NY ports. customs will keep your car for close to 1 month @ $10 - $20 a day storage.

To tell you the truth, buy one here if you don't have gray hair. This cost me a lot of gray. I'm not joking.
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  #40  
Old January 7th, 2013, 01:18 AM
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The grey hair is why you hire Doug. I bought mine off ebay.co.uk with no pictures. I paid for it with paypal. Doug contacted the seller, arranged for his transporter to pick it up from the seller (it was a non-runner) and take it to the docks, arranged for shipping, customs, picked it up in Baltimore and dropped it off at my house (in fairness he needed some parts from me). All I did was sign the paperwork and cut him a check. He even got it running for me. ;-)
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