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  #1  
Old June 9th, 2010, 10:41 PM
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Martin Spencer
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New truck have questions

I finally bought a truck. It is a 94 with 109K on it. It is in very good condition, and has service records from its whole life. It is a well maintained truck. I just have a few questions.

1. What are recommendations for tightening up the steering? I drive a one ton truck, and have driven a lot of jeeps, and understand the steering is always going to have a little play in it. I am just curious if the tie rod ends or something seem to wear out on these trucks over time.

2. What do I need to do with the oil cooler lines? I keep hearing horror stories about trucks catching fire.

3. Suspension recommendations:
- I would really like to see pictures of ST's with 265/75/16 tires and 2 and 3 inch lifts
- I want a set up that will give me good performance on and off road
- I like to get in the rocks (for fun, not to crazy) and am looking for as much suspension travel as I
can get.

The truck has some protection on it, but I am going to put a bumper and winch on the front, so this might affect the springs I need.

Thanks in advance.

------ Follow up post added June 9th, 2010 11:17 PM ------

I think I will end up going with 2" springs so I don't have to do new drive shafts. It seems 50/50 on the OME vs. RTE. Does anyone run the 2" full flex kit from RTE? If so how do you like it? Are cones or retainers better (in your opinion)?
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  #2  
Old June 10th, 2010, 03:01 AM
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Gery
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Trailhead 4x4 is where I bought my oil cooler lines

I upgraded my drag link and tie rods to HD ones from Rovertacks
not sure if it will improve steering but it will be much more durable.

I'm running OME HD springs front and rear with Equipe and Lucky8 components with no swaybars to increase articulation. I like the setup so far.

Will post Picts later of how it looks with 265/75/16

lots of options when it comes to suspension upgrades so I'm sure you'll have fun picking and choosing.
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  #3  
Old June 10th, 2010, 06:55 AM
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Mike
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I would check all of the front end joints. The steering shouldn't be loose and sloppy. I would also pull the hubs and take a look at the bearings if they haven't been changed. Are your swivel ball seals leaking. Would be a good time to change the seals while you are looking at everything.
Oil cooler could be a potential problem. Somebody was making them here I think? Much better than factory.
You should be able to fit 265's with the stock suspension. If you do a 2 inch lift then you should be able to clear 285's. As Amity mentioned disconnecting the sway bar will give you more articulation but more sway on the road. If you do the lift you can get shocks that will help the suspension drop a little more.
Rocks = steering guard, diff guards, sliders, and gas tank skid.
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  #4  
Old June 10th, 2010, 09:02 AM
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Martin Spencer
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Thanks for the input. I was asking about the tires because it has a brand new set of bfg m/t 265s on it. I thought they would probably be a little small, but was curious to see what it looked like. The steering isn't sloppy, no swaying or jerking around, it just seems to me to have a little extra play in the steering wheel. The only leak I could find on the truck is a slow seep from the rear main seal. Cowtown rovers is replacing that before I pick up the truck tomorrow. I am ordering all the protection asap (sliders, diff guards), and if anyone can tell me where I might find a safari gard slim line winch bumper with skid plate I am looking for one.
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  #5  
Old June 10th, 2010, 09:58 AM
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Regarding the Safari Gard stuff, you may have a hard time locating one. May I suggest Rockware or Rovertym bumpers?

Here are picts of my rig taken this morning. Has BFG AT 265/75/16. I have wheel spacers installed, so the stance is a little wider. I will be upgrading to 285 KM2 one of these days.
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  #6  
Old June 10th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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Steering will always be about the same for these trucks. Won't be tight like a sports car, but shouldn't be so loose that you know its wrong. I would check out tie rods ties and other steering components to make sure.

Change the oil cooler lines. I had a set of Trailhead 4x4 cooler lines on my truck for the past 3 years and liked them, though I always felt they were a little bit short. I recently put a new Mopar sandwich plate in and made new cooler lines myself. I bought everything I needed to make the lines from JEGS. They are simple to put together and cheap. I can send you the list of parts if you want, or you can get a set from trailhead4x4.com

As far as lift and tires go, I would say to take that bad boy off road first and see what it can really go. I took my stock truck off road a bunch and was really marveled at how good it was off road on just AT tires and stock suspension. 4 years down the line I have mine on 35" tires and a 3" lift and I would tell you that while it looks cool and is unstoppable off road I would highly recommend not doing it. 3" gives you lots of problems with the driveline and is just too much of a headache sometimes. I would say if you really wanted to lift and put new tires on it, go with 255/85 Mud Terrains and a 1" lift or so.
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  #7  
Old June 10th, 2010, 10:29 AM
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Chris Davis
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Definitely check the steering components as suggested above, but first I would check the steering box for play--there are many write up's on this but the just of it is to grab the steering column shaft before it enters the steering box and rotate it back and forth and check for play--there is a threaded shaft (usually with an allen style head at the top) along with a lock nut on top of the steering box that you would use to adjust the play to take it out. That is the first step I would take as it is a very common source of sloppy steering. You don't want it too tight or it can cause premature wear on the steering box. Again, there are better write ups in the manuals and on the forums--I have to run to work but if you pm me I can direct you to a link for the rave downloads.
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  #8  
Old June 10th, 2010, 01:17 PM
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I did the OME 2" lift with OME shocks. I put 285 m/ts on, as the 265s looked a little small after the new springs. Sway bars are gone. I have been very happy with this set-up, except for articulation, especially in the rear. I added EE 2"lower rear shock mounts and this helped a lot. FWIW, I prefer retainers over cones, and use EE spring retains. They are much better than the RTE (which I have on my DII), but pricey. Also, I strongly recommed HD trailing arms as well; the stock ones are silly weak.
BTW, have you checked out Texasrovers.com?
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  #9  
Old June 11th, 2010, 12:06 AM
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Martin Spencer
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I have been in Texas rovers in the past. I used to have an 04 DII with OME suspension and arb's front and rear. I replaced the engine in it twice and finally gave up on it. I always wanted a 90 anyway. I will have to get back in touch with texas rovers soon.

thanks to all of you for your input. I am still in the decision making process.
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  #10  
Old June 11th, 2010, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasD-90 View Post
I am ordering all the protection asap (sliders, diff guards), and if anyone can tell me where I might find a safari gard slim line winch bumper with skid plate I am looking for one.
Call Eddie or Kevin at West Coast Rovers. I believe he has a Safari Guard winch bumper for a Defender in his show room. Tried to sell it to me a few weeks ago. 949-768-3777
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  #11  
Old June 11th, 2010, 09:22 PM
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Martin Spencer
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Thank you!
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  #12  
Old June 12th, 2010, 11:20 AM
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Martin Spencer
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I have been reading about the different bumpers, and can't find many opinions on the rovertym bumper.
Does anyone have more info/opinions on this bumper? Pics would be great too. I also like the rockware
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  #13  
Old June 12th, 2010, 12:00 PM
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Rovertym has only built one or two bumpers for a Defender... I saw one a year or two back on a 110 at an event. So, it is hard to find any reviews, since there are so few in use.
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Old June 12th, 2010, 06:03 PM
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The RTE looks like shit get a Rockware.
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  #15  
Old June 13th, 2010, 10:23 PM
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I have been searching about the oil cooler lines, and it appears many people just eliminate the oil cooler all together. What are the problems with doing that? Seems easy enough, and free. Don't want to mess anything up, just trying to figure out what is best to do.
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  #16  
Old June 14th, 2010, 09:34 AM
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Some have done it and swear it makes no diff what so ever. I have talked to others, especially in hotter climates, that say they saw a noticable increase in oil temp. FWIW.
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  #17  
Old June 14th, 2010, 10:22 AM
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The cheapest fix I've read about here is to just take the original lines to a hydraulic shop and have them re-build them. Folks either leave the truck parked while they wait for the new lines to be ready or try driving it without them for a few days.

There was a member here (Ken I believe) who was selling sets for $100 or so- lines, fittings and then order the new sandwich plate from Morpar. I think it was $200 or so for everything for me when I did this and that included a new oil filter and oil change while I was at it. I've had the lines two years now and they still look great and seem to be functioning well too. I think there is a write up with all the part numbers and suppliers if you wanted to do them yourself.
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  #18  
Old June 14th, 2010, 09:04 PM
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Martin Spencer
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I am also toying with the idea of building sliders myself. Does anyone have a picture of the way they need to connecet to the truck? I hate to weld them to the frame, but that might be best????
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  #19  
Old June 15th, 2010, 08:25 PM
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Martin Spencer
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What would be the disadvantage to the RR1 verses the RR3 in the rear of a ST? I know it is heavy duty vs. medium duty, but what is the disadvantage? Would the ride be rough with the RR1?
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  #20  
Old June 15th, 2010, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasD-90 View Post
I am also toying with the idea of building sliders myself. Does anyone have a picture of the way they need to connecet to the truck? I hate to weld them to the frame, but that might be best????
They need to have 3 connection points, or they they will push up into the body. I have a great set for sale.

------ Follow up post added June 15th, 2010 08:41 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by TexasD-90 View Post
What would be the disadvantage to the RR1 verses the RR3 in the rear of a ST? I know it is heavy duty vs. medium duty, but what is the disadvantage? Would the ride be rough with the RR1?
There is no real weight in the back of the truck, so it would be a rough ride. Unless you plan on loading the truck down on an expedition, go with a medium duty spring.
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