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  #1  
Old May 7th, 2011, 08:07 PM
jeangtd
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Gabriel
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New probelm, hopefully the last one

Ok so my electrical system is 99% figured out and restored back to stock. today i was checking everything at the dashboard and found that one particular cable gets very very hoy, it becomes unbearable to the touch. you can touch it for like 10 seconds, it doesnt get any hotter than that but it gets very hot. its the brown caboe that goes to the lights switch.

also the switch to do high beams quickly, not when you press it forward, but when you pull it towards you, its a purple wire, joined with a black wire that goes to the switch on the sterering column, i find it odd that the two cables where joined but the connection looked oem. anyways, when i pull it a little short happens where the two tins make contact on the steering column switch and the speakers short out a bit to......any ideas?
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  #2  
Old May 9th, 2011, 08:30 PM
jeangtd
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anyone know if a bad horn-side ligts-flasher switch will cause the short i am describing
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  #3  
Old May 9th, 2011, 11:19 PM
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I am not sure if it is your issue, but you need the ARB kit to put a relay on the headlights. The stock circuit is marginal at best. Does it get hot with the headlights on or off?
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  #4  
Old May 9th, 2011, 11:34 PM
jeangtd
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the cable gets hot when i turn the lights on. this has nothing to do with the flasher-horn switch problem. but do you think i should add a relay to the headlights? how much amps should the relay have?
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  #5  
Old May 10th, 2011, 12:45 AM
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30 amp I believe ("A gentleman does not travel at night." -- Lucas electrics)

ARB sells a kit, there is a write up somewhere on this website for a DIY solution.

http://www.expeditionexchange.com/arb/

ARB Heavy-Duty Wiring Loom (M002) $110
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  #6  
Old May 10th, 2011, 01:46 AM
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The brown wire is the main power for the headlamps. If it's getting hot, that means resistance. Caliente es malo, unless you like fuego in your dashboard! As mentioned, the LR headlamp wiring is marginal at best. A re-wire with relays and larger capacity wire is in order, to shunt the main load off the column switch.

The purple wire is the power feed to the turn signal/high beam switch, and the black wire (probably black with a silver trace) feeds the interior lights. The problem you describe could be the switch, but the safer bet is there is a faulty ground somewhere. About 90% of LR electrical problems can be traced to faulty ground connections, the other 90% are the result of wimpy wiring and switches designed in 1947...
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  #7  
Old May 10th, 2011, 10:26 AM
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so i was checking the arb wiring harness, and its very nice, but its not avaliable here, so id have to wait 30 days till the part gets here, can anypne explain the schematics of the harness and ill just wire it down myself, it should just be wires and realys right?
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  #8  
Old May 10th, 2011, 11:20 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I'm sure it's been discussed on the forums before so search if you want to find out more, but the concept is very simple. Instead of power flowing through the switch and it closing the circuit, change the wiring so that the switch just activates the relay. The power will flow through the relay instead.

But even without a relay in the circuit the wire should not be getting hot, so it sounds like you have a short somewhere.

hth
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Old May 10th, 2011, 11:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeangtd View Post
so i was checking the arb wiring harness, and its very nice, but its not avaliable here, so id have to wait 30 days till the part gets here, can anypne explain the schematics of the harness and ill just wire it down myself, it should just be wires and realys right?
Wire it yourself.
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  #10  
Old May 10th, 2011, 12:22 PM
jeangtd
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
I'm sure it's been discussed on the forums before so search if you want to find out more, but the concept is very simple. Instead of power flowing through the switch and it closing the circuit, change the wiring so that the switch just activates the relay. The power will flow through the relay instead.

But even without a relay in the circuit the wire should not be getting hot, so it sounds like you have a short somewhere.

hth
charles
if there was in fact a short somewhere wouldnt the fuse go?

heres some pics of ground wires i found cut
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  #11  
Old May 10th, 2011, 01:33 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Not necessarily. A bad connection or a partial short will cause resistance and make that wire heat up, but it's only a matter of time and it will fail. The bottom line is the wiring should not be unbearably hot.

Check the switch itself. It may be the problem. You can bypass it as a test and see if the wire still gets hot.

I have no idea what those cut off ground connectors are for.
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  #12  
Old May 10th, 2011, 05:00 PM
jeangtd
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man i want my d90 up and runnign again.
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  #13  
Old May 10th, 2011, 09:15 PM
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I know it is a pain in the .....but the guys are correct in that it is probably a short in the wire or a ground fault. The ground faults are common for the age of your truck. The switch could be at fault but I would check at least the ground first as it is probably needing attention anyway.
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  #14  
Old May 11th, 2011, 09:26 AM
jeangtd
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ok an update, figured out the short, just took the switch apart gave it a good cleaning and now its perfect. still no high beam flashing, i think the switch is toast anyway, looked at all of the fuses and all are ok, but now nothing happens when i pull the lever....
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Old May 11th, 2011, 09:38 AM
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do you have no flash of the high beam or no high beam period? You keep saying pulling, but if you push for "permanent on" for high beam does it work? May just be the stalk, as I lost the flash of high beam, but they still functioned if I pushed the stalk forward.
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  #16  
Old May 11th, 2011, 10:25 AM
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Glad you found it! For a long term fix, plan on putting relays in as well when you replace the switch.

Yes the high beam flash and high beam on are different contacts in the switch.
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  #17  
Old May 12th, 2011, 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by rijosho View Post
do you have no flash of the high beam or no high beam period? You keep saying pulling, but if you push for "permanent on" for high beam does it work? May just be the stalk, as I lost the flash of high beam, but they still functioned if I pushed the stalk forward.
i got permanent high beam, but no high beam flash
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