New H4's, bulbs and upgrade harness - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 15th, 2011, 03:14 PM
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New H4's, bulbs and upgrade harness

Have to get new H4 headlamps , better bulbs and upgrade the wiring harness on the '85 110 (did the same thing 14 years ago on my '97 D90) but have not shopped for an h4 headlamp, bulbs or harness since . Anyone done any recent shopping , any better bulbs out there (In the past the higher the out put the shorter their life span was , still the case? Who is making the best headlight now ? Hella, IPF, Bosch, any reasonably priced harness? Or is it still more cost effective to make your own with 2 relays and 2 fuses and the proper gauge wire ?
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  #2  
Old October 16th, 2011, 09:44 AM
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thomas
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http://piaa.com/Bulbs/Bulbs-H4.html

I am very happy with PIAA. I get on average 2 years out of them.

This is what I put them in.. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hella-Headla...item43a9edc3bd
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Old October 16th, 2011, 10:36 AM
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I used the Hellas in my old '97( they were decent until I broke them during a water crossing) I also bought IPF "MG bulbs" that were 55/50 Watt that were supposed to give the lighting of 110/130 watt bulbs and had a blue glow ring around the outside of the bulb What a crock of shit that was, they were some of the dimmest bulbs I ever owned, live and learn) . ,My big issue was the wiring harness impatient and not wanting to spend $100+ dollars on an upgrade harness, I went to the auto parts store and made my own took an hour or so , but it came out great and cost me about $35 in parts . Still need proper H4 E code head lamps made for LH drive roads and I threw in a pair of Sylvania ZXE Silverstar bulbs night and day difference between the wiring and the bulbs.
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Old October 16th, 2011, 11:52 AM
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I put these on my factory wiring harness, much bettering lighting than standard. May be a problem if your state has vehicle inspections.

http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?...ber=0301600118
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Old October 16th, 2011, 01:31 PM
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You might call Susquehanna motorsports and see what they're recommending these days. I think they still have a 15% D-90 special.
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  #6  
Old October 17th, 2011, 03:41 PM
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DIY Heavy Duty Headlight wiring loom for the LR Defender
List of goods needed
Two 30 amp relays
8 yellow (to accept 12 gauge wire) plastic coated (to the ends no metal exposed) female connectors
2 yellow plastic coated battery terminal eye connectors
2 straight male spade connectors (ends exposed)
one 4 way connector to split the 12 gauge ground wire to 4 locations
2 heavy duty in line fuse holder with 30 amp blade fuses
10 feet or so of split black plastic wire covering conduit
20' of red 12 gauge wire
20 ' of black 12 gage wire
10' of yellow 12 gauge wire
2 new HD H4 (9003) headlamp connectors (this leaves the stock wiring harness and connectors intact for future owners)
1 roll of good 3M electrical tape
heat shrink tubing (if you want a real nice professional touch)
15 or so small zip ties.
To send full power to the headlamps (or any other lights you might want to add) start from the battery or alternator Positive (+) terminal with the shortest length of wire you can (and still leave enough to be able to install uninstall unlike the stock Land Rover wiring where you have to reach into the light sockets to see if they are plugged in to the wiring harness) with a decent gauge wire, I like using 12 gauge one black (-) I like going from the battery ground directly because I don’t trust any of the Land Rover Grounds and one red (+) and brought it right up to the left hand fender lip (my Rover is a right hand drive so my battery is under the left seat) and located two 30amp relays from there, to the left head lamp you need 5 wires cut to 24" long. I used 1 black (ground) one to the new Left head light connector; 2 red (High beam left) one to the new connector and one to the old head lamp harness; 2 yellow (Left Low beam) one to the new headlamp connector and one to the old head lamp low beam.
Then you will need 3 wires cut to 72" long ( this will take you from the relays behind the left head light under the radiator and into the right hand head lamp fender cavity), one red right headlight high , one yellow right hand head light low beam; one black right hand head light ground ( you can run these in the split plastic wire harness cover or hand tape so they run as one group, zip tie in place.
Now you are simply use the existing headlamp wires to switch the relays on and off, and the relays send or interrupting current to the headlamps. This way, you can bring full current to the headlamps, with virtually no voltage drop, avoiding melting the expensive Land Rover head lamp switch (and getting much brighter lights to boot)
I like to mark the relays with some yellow electrical tape and mark{ with a fine point permanent pen} one "High beam", one "Low Beam" on top and the sides of each one gets marked pin 30= power in; pin 85 = Ground; pin 86= Old low on one and Old High on the other ( I used the left hand old head lamp wiring harness plug for these because it was the shortest distance); 87= to new high and to new low beams.
Now I joined and soldered and heat shrunk the main wire from the battery into 2 separate 30 amp inline fuse holders and from there the line coming out of the other side crimped the female fully covered connectors and put them on the pin 30 on each relay; now I soldered one red 72 " wire and one short 24" red wire together and left one good lead to crimp on a fully covered female connector and put it on the pin 87 on the High Beam relay; Then do the same for a 24" and 72" yellow lengths of wire and join them to the #87 pin on the low Beam relay. At this point I took two 24" pieces of wire soldered male un-protected spade end heat shrank the solder one will go to the old high and one to the old low beam spades in the old headlamp wiring harness and they go back up to the corresponding high and low beam relay pins #86. Now I tool a 72"and 24" black wire , and two 3" pieces of black wire and joined them all to the 4 way female wire connector (so your battery ground to each relay and out to each new headlamp socket (I soldered and joined two 3" relay grounds together so they only took up one spot on the 4way female connector (not sure if they make a 5 way connector but my auto part store did not carry one. At this point I was able to group all the wires by length and location and join them together with either tape or black plastic conduit . I soldered on the new headlamp sockets in place so I did not become an obstruction when feeding the wires to the headlamp locations. I also always use dielectric grease on all slip on fittings (relay, batteries and headlamp sockets) pictures to follow. What a difference, great lights and no fear of melting the stock switch.
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Old October 17th, 2011, 04:05 PM
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mark kellgren
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Got a wiring diagram you can share? I think I would follow that easier than the narrative. Thanks for sharing. I want to do this. all I need is the connector; have everything else.
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Old October 17th, 2011, 04:17 PM
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The new headlamp connectors are common at local auto parts stores but they have thin cheep wiring. These guys sell better ones http://www.comagination.com/parts.htm I'll have to learn how to make up a wiring diagram on the computer. It is always better to see it than say it.
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Old October 17th, 2011, 04:35 PM
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mark kellgren
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thanks! hand drawn works as well! Just ordered connectors from your source!
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  #10  
Old October 17th, 2011, 05:22 PM
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thomas
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I think this is all you really need (one for high and one for low).


http://www.4wheelparts.com/Lighting-...ct&emlprox=out


Here is an image of the dwg, remember you will need 2 for the high low

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/att...ite-wiring.jpg

and remember the switch on your truck is a 3 position switch....
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  #11  
Old October 17th, 2011, 06:09 PM
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I would go for a set of H4 Headlamp housings and install a nice set of Bi-Xenon lamps in them. They can be had on Ebay for about $50-$100 and include a harness to install them. You just have to put the bulbs in, mount the ballasts and wire them in. Easy to do, much better light, a lower draw, longer lifespan etc. They're better in every way to drop-in bulb replacements. I have put them in everything I own that didn't come with them from the factory. I recommend the 4300k kits as they provide the most light and are closest to Factory Spec in newer vehicles. The higher "k" kits get very blue to even purple in color and most of the light is outside of the visible spectrum.
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  #12  
Old October 17th, 2011, 08:25 PM
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Ok here is the wiring diagram
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Old October 17th, 2011, 08:58 PM
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a few of the non standard parts to use
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Old October 19th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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Piaa

Just a reminder, if you're looking for PIAA products let me know. My website is www.piaalights.com. Better pricing for D90 members if you contact me directly. Door panels anyone? About 10 sets left.
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Old October 19th, 2011, 11:02 AM
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John,
contact me , what style door panels do you have (winded up? second row ? and I need a good set of fog lights one0onefc@gmail.com
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