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  #1  
Old August 2nd, 2011, 05:28 PM
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New Guy - Old Problem

Hi guys, Long-time lurker and first time poster here.

First, let me say thanks for all the great discussion over the last few years. It has been a real benefit.

Second, I've got a '97 D90 SW with an issue I can't quite figure out and searching through the data fails to yield a conclusive answer. I sure am pinching pennies right now so I want to limit costly experiments.

I installed the medium duty OME springs and nitrocharger shocks last week (truck stance looks great) but now I'm getting intermittent vibrations in the rear-end and whining when the drive-train is under a load. It sounds like it is coming from the rear diff.

Pinion Angle: The rear end was lifted a whopping 1.5" so I am struggling to accept that this is the issue.

U-Joints: The rear prop shaft is rock solid when pushed/pulled/twisted. The u-joints appear to be in good shape.

Prop shaft itself: The vibrations are not consistent (only there about 5% of the time) so its probably not bent or out of balance.

T-case: verified fluid levels and I'm running synthetic (which was refreshed 6 months ago).

I'm out of ideas... anyone?

Thanks in advance,

~Hans
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  #2  
Old August 2nd, 2011, 06:05 PM
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First off, welcome. Love the view of Pike's Peak in the am.

Re: vibes, the pinion angle and t-case angles should be close to equal or there will be vibes.

Tom Wood's has some good pics/description of DS geometry. www.4xshaft.com
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  #3  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 05:30 PM
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Had a very nice conversation with Mr. Wood. Thank you for the link Mr. Clay.

After some detailed discussion and a little experimentation, I am shocked to report that a 1.5" lift to my stock height is creating a drive-line issue (and grunting noises in the rear end) due to pinion angle.

Next question... What is the most trusted solution (within the D90 community) for correcting Pinion Angle issues?
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  #4  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 05:47 PM
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No need to get formal. Modified rear links or adjustable rear links.

Rovertym makes some (http://www.rovertym.com/index.php/De...-Bushings.html), as do others.
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  #5  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 05:48 PM
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look in to getting new trailing arms that are adjustable. I have a set from Rovertym and they are great.
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  #6  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 06:11 PM
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Rovertracks rear link solved the issues on my defender.
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  #7  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 08:57 PM
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Gents, thanks very much for the guidance.

I've located a Rock Ware set locally and will give them a try.
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  #8  
Old August 3rd, 2011, 11:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
Hi guys, Long-time lurker and first time poster here.

First, let me say thanks for all the great discussion over the last few years. It has been a real benefit.

Second, I've got a '97 D90 SW with an issue I can't quite figure out and searching through the data fails to yield a conclusive answer. I sure am pinching pennies right now so I want to limit costly experiments.

I installed the medium duty OME springs and nitrocharger shocks last week (truck stance looks great) but now I'm getting intermittent vibrations in the rear-end and whining when the drive-train is under a load. It sounds like it is coming from the rear diff.

Pinion Angle: The rear end was lifted a whopping 1.5" so I am struggling to accept that this is the issue.

U-Joints: The rear prop shaft is rock solid when pushed/pulled/twisted. The u-joints appear to be in good shape.

Prop shaft itself: The vibrations are not consistent (only there about 5% of the time) so its probably not bent or out of balance.

T-case: verified fluid levels and I'm running synthetic (which was refreshed 6 months ago).

I'm out of ideas... anyone?

Thanks in advance,

~Hans
What was the viscocity of the synthetic gear oil you used 6 months ago?
I made the mistake of running 75w140 synthetic gear oil in front diff and I'm 99% sure it was responsible for a front pinion bearing running hot and subsequently letting go. I changed the T-Case gear oil back to 90w before doing any damage but the output bearing on the T-case is now whining at high speed and will be replaced next week.
You did say/suggest that there was no play in the UJs or flanges, but check again before buying more components.

Would others with more experience than I agree that you should stick with straight 90w gear oil in the diffs and T-case (not fancy multi-grade Synthetics)?
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  #9  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 10:15 PM
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Just got news from the stealership that pinion bearings are shot in the rear diff and carrier bearings in the front diff. metals shavings in both.

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  #10  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 10:27 PM
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Easily remedied.
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  #11  
Old October 3rd, 2011, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Easily remedied.
Lay it on me.
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  #12  
Old October 4th, 2011, 07:02 AM
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That is, if you like changing bearings and setting up differential gears. Or, dropping the coin for new diffs...OTOH, it would be a good time to fit a locker...

Quote:
Originally Posted by o2batsea View Post
Easily remedied.
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  #13  
Old October 4th, 2011, 07:04 AM
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I've got a spare rear diff.

Call will tillery drarron or crown14 they've got a diff for you. I think a dii diff has a different casting on the lip of the diff where it bolts into the housing you maybe have to get longer studs or bolts. The hardest part on swapping a diff is getting the old one out.
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  #14  
Old October 4th, 2011, 01:00 PM
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So here's what I know... the dealer wants to replace both diffs (of course). Their argument is that since my D90 has 129k miles, it is a smart idea to replace the diff gears now instead of simply rebuilding them with the old parts.

Roversnorth wants $2750 per side for factory gears.

Atlantic British wants $1000 (Item: FTC5142)

I need to follow up on rover4X4's info as well.

Dealer wants 3 hours labor per side to do the swap.

My concern is quality - and the possibility of adding an ARB locker to the rear only.

Is the ARB locker added to the diff or does it replace the diff? What I mean is... do I need to order both or is the ARB Diff a complete replacement for my existing (worn-out diff)?

I am really at a loss and appreciate any assistance helping me understand what to do next. I owe an answer or the dealer by the end of the day.

Thanks in advance.
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  #15  
Old October 4th, 2011, 01:09 PM
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Take your truck to Pike's Peak Rovers. They will give you a completely different (friendlier) set of numbers and maybe a differnent diagnosis.
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  #16  
Old October 4th, 2011, 01:24 PM
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www.roversdownsouth.com
Genuine Land Rover
NEW 24 spline Diff
Fits front and rear
1994 and later
FTC5142 $955.00

Or see if you can get some low mile units from Will Tillery
Will Tillery Parts
434.251.9331
Danville Va 24541
Monday through Friday 8-6 Eastern


The install is not too hard, if you can do basic type stuff you should be able to do it, order some pizza and invite a few member to lend a hand

Or if you do not want to attempt the work try pikes peak rover
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  #17  
Old October 4th, 2011, 01:36 PM
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Diff rebuilding is one of those automotive jobs that I find the most zen like. Not saying that you should try doing them on your own, but it's kind of a cool thing. If you have any D-90 chums in the area that may be able to school you....

'Course if you have no time nor inclination for such bother, then maybe good used or as suggested above, new but at a less stratospheric cost.

------ Follow up post added October 4th, 2011 01:41 PM ------

Quote:
is the ARB Diff a complete replacement for my existing (worn-out diff)?
Yes, but you use your existing ring gear. If yours is no good then you'll need a new ring and pinion set, pinion bearings and seal, as well as the means to do the adjustments. I don't recall whether you get carrier bearings with the locker, but I believe not.
You have to adjust the height of the pinion and set it with shims, then adjust the carrier side to side so that the pinion and ring gear mesh properly.
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  #18  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
So here's what I know... the dealer wants to replace both diffs (of course). Their argument is that since my D90 has 129k miles, it is a smart idea to replace the diff gears now instead of simply rebuilding them with the old parts.

Roversnorth wants $2750 per side for factory gears.

Atlantic British wants $1000 (Item: FTC5142)

I need to follow up on rover4X4's info as well.

Dealer wants 3 hours labor per side to do the swap.

My concern is quality - and the possibility of adding an ARB locker to the rear only.

Is the ARB locker added to the diff or does it replace the diff? What I mean is... do I need to order both or is the ARB Diff a complete replacement for my existing (worn-out diff)?

I am really at a loss and appreciate any assistance helping me understand what to do next. I owe an answer or the dealer by the end of the day.

Thanks in advance.
Hans, if you so desire, I have a front and rear diff from my 97 Defender. They were removed at 40K miles and replaced with rebuilts diffs with 4:11 gearing and lockers. These diffs have been stored in air-tight buckets and they're in excellent condition ready to drop in. They are availalble for $250/ea. plus $100 for shipping. Phone or txt me if you are interested. 703-953-5546
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  #19  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:13 PM
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Wow, you just totally confused the heck out of me on this one. I was starting to read into this, and then had to ask myself when I bought a '97 and when did I lift it?

Turns out there are two of us on here with the same name and same simple way of finishing our posts.

-Hans
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  #20  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:14 PM
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Ok, if the diff from Rovers Down South is a genuine LR part and it is new for $955, that's a winning solution.

Is the ARB diff lock something that is added to the diff or does it replace the OEM diff?

Do I buy both (new diff gears and ARB locker)???

Also, any reason to believe adding lockers to rear only is a bad idea?
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