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  #41  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:16 PM
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Hans, if you want to talk through this on the phone give me a call. It will probably make more sense if you hear it said. If you are not planning to do any significant off roading or advanced trails I think you are buying more than you'll ever need. You'll also not likely to get any of this investment back on resell. In this Defender community people who know they need lockers and 4:11 gearing and DC shafts tend to do it themselves or only willing to pay a small fraction of what it's worth. Take a look at what stock trucks fetch vs. trail ready rigs with $10K invested in them. 703-953-5546 (Cell)

Clay
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  #42  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:27 PM
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What size tires are you running
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  #43  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Seems odd to me that you would need a dc shaft or adjustable links with an OME lift.... Maybe a ujoint??

Also question the 4.11 gears unless you are running A 34" tire or something larger
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  #44  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1of40 View Post
Hans, if you want to talk through this on the phone give me a call. It will probably make more sense if you hear it said. If you are not planning to do any significant off roading or advanced trails I think you are buying more than you'll ever need. You'll also not likely to get any of this investment back on resell. In this Defender community people who know they need lockers and 4:11 gearing and DC shafts tend to do it themselves or only willing to pay a small fraction of what it's worth. Take a look at what stock trucks fetch vs. trail ready rigs with $10K invested in them. 703-953-5546 (Cell)

Clay
This is good advice, Clay. That said, I will never (not ever) sell my D90. When I die, it goes to my daughter. If she sells it, so be it.

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Originally Posted by rover4x4 View Post
What size tires are you running
Stock BFG 31" All terrain.

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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Seems odd to me that you would need a dc shaft or adjustable links with an OME lift.... Maybe a ujoint??

Also question the 4.11 gears unless you are running A 34" tire or something larger
I had the U-joints verified by Driveline Solutions. Going to SKIP the rear DC drive shaft originally planned and do the Rovertym or RockWare trailing arms to try to correct pinion angle.

As far as the gears go, Bill Davis suggested that my D90 (especially at my altitude) will perform better since the stock gearing was designed for 29" tires (not 31" as seen on the NAS D90).
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  #45  
Old October 6th, 2011, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
This is good advice, Clay. That said, I will never (not ever) sell my D90. When I die, it goes to my daughter. If she sells it, so be it.



Stock BFG 31" All terrain.



I had the U-joints verified by Driveline Solutions. Going to SKIP the rear DC drive shaft originally planned and do the Rovertym or RockWare trailing arms to try to correct pinion angle.

As far as the gears go, Bill Davis suggested that my D90 (especially at my altitude) will perform better since the stock gearing was designed for 29" tires (not 31" as seen on the NAS D90).
Good Luck Hans. I went through the same process by starting with a OME ift which lead to vibes and started by adding front DC, then rear arms, then rear DC and I still have vibes at times. I think its the SWB auto trans and 4:11 gears that magnify things a bit.
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  #46  
Old October 6th, 2011, 01:47 PM
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Good Luck Hans. I went through the same process by starting with a OME ift which lead to vibes and started by adding front DC, then rear arms, then rear DC and I still have vibes at times. I think its the SWB auto trans and 4:11 gears that magnify things a bit.
Damn...
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  #47  
Old October 6th, 2011, 02:50 PM
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Do what Dana said.
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  #48  
Old October 6th, 2011, 02:59 PM
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Do what Dana said.
I agree. For what you plan to use the truck for you don't need lockers or 4:11 gearing. My original suggestion was to buy my diffs with only 40K miles on them. $500, plus shipping and I'll give you a 12 month/12,000 mile guarantee. If anything goes wrong with them I'll buy them back from you.
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  #49  
Old October 6th, 2011, 03:17 PM
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I agree. For what you plan to use the truck for you don't need lockers or 4:11 gearing. My original suggestion was to buy my diffs with only 40K miles on them. $500, plus shipping and I'll give you a 12 month/12,000 mile guarantee. If anything goes wrong with them I'll buy them back from you.
Clay, I owe you an apology. I JUST saw your original post (back a few pages) with pics of your old diffs. I did not intend to blow past that offer without the courtesy of a response. Please accept my apology.

I made a commitment to GBR/Bill Davis (yesterday morning) for the 4:11 detroit TT diffs.

Just left you a voicemail...
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  #50  
Old October 7th, 2011, 12:11 AM
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So... I just installed a set of RockWare trailing arms that compensate for the pinion angle issue created by the 1.5" lift. No luck. I still get the same grunt (distinctly from the rear end) at 70MPH when I get on or come off the throttle.

The fun continues.

Still think DC shafts are overkill?

On a brighter note, you guys will be delighted to learn that I've decided to "man up" and do the diff swap in my own garage (ok, ok, with a great deal of assistance from my pal).

I'm honestly quite excited to get into it.
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  #51  
Old October 7th, 2011, 12:39 AM
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I doubt the angle of the diff changed enough due to the lift to cause an issue that needs corrected. An OME lift is mild and many people are running them without issue or the need to add longer tailing arms or other things.

It is possible that there was already something wrong and the lift simply amplified it or any number of other issues that are unrated to the lift.

For example a bad u joint, unbalanced drive shaft, bad slip yoke...

Did you add new tires? Are you sure they are balanced properly?

Maybe there was a bearing that was going bad in the diff?

Adding the 4.10s might even make things worse as I have seen in several cases.

Does it do it when you let off the gas? When you accelerate? At a certain speed?
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  #52  
Old October 7th, 2011, 01:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
I doubt the angle of the diff changed enough due to the lift to cause an issue that needs corrected. An OME lift is mild and many people are running them without issue or the need to add longer tailing arms or other things.

It is possible that there was already something wrong and the lift simply amplified it or any number of other issues that are unrated to the lift.

For example a bad u joint, unbalanced drive shaft, bad slip yoke...
Perhaps - though u-joints were checked by a driveline shop

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Did you add new tires?
No

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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Are you sure they are balanced properly?
Yes - just rechecked

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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Maybe there was a bearing that was going bad in the diff?
I think that is certain in the rear

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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Adding the 4.10s might even make things worse as I have seen in several cases.
Uh oh...

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Originally Posted by dave_lucas View Post
Does it do it when you let off the gas?
Yes

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When you accelerate?
Only when power is first applied (or power removed)

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At a certain speed?
No, but especially notable over 60
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  #53  
Old October 7th, 2011, 06:02 AM
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I had vibrations with a mild lift (RR rear springs in front and OME med rear). Changing out to a front DC driveshaft cured my vibrations when getting on/off the gas at highway speeds. I think your doing the right things Hans, good luck!
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  #54  
Old October 7th, 2011, 08:56 AM
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Hans, if you suspect either of the driveshafts, simply remove them one at a time. You can engage the center diff lock and run with one and see if it changes the situation, then put the other shaft back in and remove the one you started with. Free and doesn't take that long.

hth
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  #55  
Old October 7th, 2011, 11:38 AM
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I had vibrations with a mild lift (RR rear springs in front and OME med rear). Changing out to a front DC driveshaft cured my vibrations when getting on/off the gas at highway speeds. I think your doing the right things Hans, good luck!
Bill Davis (GBR) believes this to be the cure as well.

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Originally Posted by cgalpin View Post
Hans, if you suspect either of the driveshafts, simply remove them one at a time. You can engage the center diff lock and run with one and see if it changes the situation, then put the other shaft back in and remove the one you started with. Free and doesn't take that long.

hth
charles
Timely post! After putting pinion angle adjusting trailing arms on the D90 (last night) without correcting the problem, we've collectively decided (this morning) that this is our next step. I was advised by Tom (at GBR) to secure the heck out of the parking break drum when doing this.
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  #56  
Old October 8th, 2011, 01:05 AM
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Hans,

I live here in the Springs and I can help you if you need it. Pulling diffs and driveshafts is simple. I recommend dual cardan shafts for at least the front. I am pulling my rear diff this weekend to get my Detroit rebuilt and I'm also pulling the GBR front DS to replace with a Tom Woods. I do most of my work at home down by the Broadmoor but for some stuff, I take my truck to the Fort Carson auto crafts shop where I can put it on a lift.
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  #57  
Old October 8th, 2011, 11:23 AM
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Hey Chris! Thanks for the offer, brother. We've met - but it's been 4 or 5 years.

Why Tom Woods for the DC shaft instead of GBR?
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  #58  
Old October 8th, 2011, 05:07 PM
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My GBR driveshaft is the old style with the adapter plate, which sucks.

Where did we meet?
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  #59  
Old October 8th, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chris snell View Post
My GBR driveshaft is the old style with the adapter plate, which sucks.
Interesting... do know if the latest GBR shafts use the adapter plate?

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Where did we meet?
If you're the gent I'm thinking of, we met roughly 4 years ago at a British car rally at Colorado Springs Land rover.

Does your D90 have a 3-link suspension in the front?
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  #60  
Old October 8th, 2011, 11:45 PM
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That wasn't me. I've only been here a little over a year.

I live down on Cheyenne Mountain and I'm usually driving my truck to downtown for lunch or whatever. No three-link, it looks like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/defende...57625240335210

Is yours the green SW with the South African flag that I've seen around?
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