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  #21  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:21 PM
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Bill Adams
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Quote:
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Is the ARB diff lock something that is added to the diff or does it replace the OEM diff?
Replaces OEM diff

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Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
Do I buy both (new diff gears and ARB locker)???

Also, any reason to believe adding lockers to rear only is a bad idea?
No, and no.
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  #22  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:28 PM
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$1000 for a two-pinion differential, I just can't see that being a good use of money. Going with having your existing unit rebuilt, with an ARB in there, will either run around the same or possibly cheaper (as you still need that $1000 stock differential unit to be installed). And the ARB is a much stronger unit all around, plus far more capable.

Since an ARB is a selectable locker, meaning you only activate it when you need it, means there will be no negative effects when driving on the road but will get you the most ability when off-road.Just make sure to have a good gear shop install it, ring and pinions have some pretty precise requirements for mesh. Get it wrong, and you're doing it again in 5k to 10k miles.

If you're going to stick with a stock style differential, I'd snag those used ones listed up a couple of posts. They'll drop right in, the gears are already dialed in and ready to go.

-Hans
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  #23  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:29 PM
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Oh man... a two Hans thread!

Let me consume that - struggling to understand... sorry.
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  #24  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:37 PM
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No problem.

Simple version is that I feel an ARB, properly installed, is a FAR better unit than stock with no drawbacks. It will also probably cost less than the $1000 differential from Rovers Down South will after factoring shipping and installation.

-Hans
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  #25  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:39 PM
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I am inclined to do this with ARB Lockers. Let me call the stealership and see how this changes their estimate.
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  #26  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:42 PM
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I am inclined to do this with ARB Lockers. Let me call the stealership and see how this changes their estimate.
Dealership? Nah, for an ARB install you want a GOOD 4x4 shop. LR dealerships are notorious for over the top prices on their work. Plus, they normally don't do this kind of work.

-Hans
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  #27  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:46 PM
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Dealership? Nah, for an ARB install you want a GOOD 4x4 shop. LR dealerships are notorious for over the top prices on their work. Plus, they normally don't do this kind of work.

-Hans
Ok. Will call a friend (former co-owner of Pikes Peak Rovers) and see when he's available to help.

Any special tools required to ensure proper mesh or is it reasonable to believe that part of the task can be completed properly in my garage?
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  #28  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:53 PM
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Ok. Will call a friend (former co-owner of Pikes Peak Rovers) and see when he's available to help.

Any special tools required to ensure proper mesh or is it reasonable to believe that part of the task can be completed properly in my garage?
I normally advocate doing work yourself if possible, but for installing a ring and pinion it's best to defer to the experts. Need some fairly precise measuring tools more akin to what a machine shop would have on hand.

-Hans
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  #29  
Old October 4th, 2011, 02:55 PM
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Another good source to talk to is Great Basin Rovers in SLC. They do this for a living. Depending on how you intend on using your truck they'll provide a couple solutions to choose from. ARB isn't you only choice. Bill is the owner and will deal with you directly.
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  #30  
Old October 4th, 2011, 03:13 PM
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Another good source to talk to is Great Basin Rovers in SLC. They do this for a living. Depending on how you intend on using your truck they'll provide a couple solutions to choose from. ARB isn't you only choice. Bill is the owner and will deal with you directly.
Great Basic Rovers sells a rebuilt unit, fully assembled, ready install. That takes the mesh discussion out of the equation.

Let me call those guys and see what they charge for a rebuilt unit with ARB Locker.

From reading the back-pages, looks like I should seriously consider upgrading my rear axles too?
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  #31  
Old October 4th, 2011, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ]-[ @ n $ View Post
Great Basic Rovers sells a rebuilt unit, fully assembled, ready install. That takes the mesh discussion out of the equation.

Let me call those guys and see what they charge for a rebuilt unit with ARB Locker.

From reading the back-pages, looks like I should seriously consider upgrading my rear axles too?
Worth considering. If you do the axles at the same time as the differential, you can go with a beefier unit with a higher spline count.

Great Basin Rovers is a great place to deal with, really know their stuff when it comes to these kind of questions.

-Hans
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  #32  
Old October 4th, 2011, 10:01 PM
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Ok... spent 30 minutes chatting with the very helpful Mr. Bill Davis. He's convinced it's the front drive shaft.

Then I went to the stealership to spend some quality time with the LR Service Manager (awesome guy) named John Z. Very straight shooter! I like that - refreshing. He showed me metal flakes in the oil from the rear diff. We also drove it and confirmed the noise (rear end) caused by the drive shaft. But which shaft????

Again, Bill Davis said even though the noise was coming from the rear his money ($100 to be exact) was on the front.

Decision: I am getting Bill to send me a new 3rd member with stock gear ratio and Limited Slip (Detroit/TT). Also, we will be exchanging BOTH stock drive shafts with new double cardon shafts from Great Basin Rovers.

I love my D90. Even my wife is jealous of that truck. I want it to be around as long as I am around. No shortcuts. No compromises.

THANKS for all of the advice, gents. Pics to be posted when I get it back.
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  #33  
Old October 5th, 2011, 06:11 AM
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DC shafts for that amount of lkift is rediculos ill bet a case of natty light those issues with a pair of adjustable rear links.
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  #34  
Old October 5th, 2011, 05:22 PM
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http://www.rovertym.com/components/c...9073c49c7d.png

(Rear A-arm extension)

Is this what you guys were talking about?

I just did a OME 2" lift on my 110, and have the same vibration problem.
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  #35  
Old October 5th, 2011, 05:48 PM
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No. Rear trailing arms.
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  #36  
Old October 5th, 2011, 05:52 PM
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Hans, if it helps, you are going the same route I took 6 years ago. You won't find a lot of fans of Detroits/TT on the fourm but they've been a great choice for me and Bill's work is great. He's also well known in the non-rover community too for his customer service and skills. I've sent 2 friends his way and I've yet to hear any disapointment. It may sound like overkill to some to go DC for a 2 inch lift but with an auto trans the vibes are more noticable and nothing sucks more than having a great truck that drives like shit.

Clay
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  #37  
Old October 6th, 2011, 03:31 AM
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Gents, I do appreciate all of the feedback.

Latest update:
Now doing 4:11 gears front and rear from GBR.

The decision to do DC drive-shafts was a tough call. Now I'm doubting again...

What's the objection to Detroit TT Limited slip diffs? I'm not going to "wheel" my D-90 beyond moderate trails so lockers offer very little benefit to me. After rolling a Rover a few years ago (with my family inside), I've lost my stomach for it.
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  #38  
Old October 6th, 2011, 05:55 AM
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Maybe you don't need gears and Trutracs.
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  #39  
Old October 6th, 2011, 07:08 AM
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Just buy a unit out of a Disco and swap it out, Roverbones has them cheap. We were at MAR this past weekend and my other half blew her diff on the trail. Randy from Roverbones had one, Me and another guy pull both axles the drive shaft took the old one out and put it all pack together in an hour and a half. for under a 100.00. Easy to to just do it.
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  #40  
Old October 6th, 2011, 11:28 AM
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Maybe you don't need gears and Trutracs.
With all the moaning coming from my gears and metal shavings in the oil (which I saw myself), I am confident the gears are on their way out the door. Bill Davis talked me into the 4:11 gearing over stock. As far as the Detroit TT's go, I definitely wanted more traction than I currently get in the loose gravel around here. It has been an issue on many occasions offroad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hammertime View Post
Just buy a unit out of a Disco and swap it out, Roverbones has them cheap. We were at MAR this past weekend and my other half blew her diff on the trail. Randy from Roverbones had one, Me and another guy pull both axles the drive shaft took the old one out and put it all pack together in an hour and a half. for under a 100.00. Easy to to just do it.
WRT a used diff from a disco, I agree... I 'could' do this a lot cheaper but I am about to put a lot more highway (and winter road) miles on my D90. I would like some confidence this isn't going to be a problem I have to deal (or at least not likely) with for another 130k miles.

I do agree that the grunt I'm hearing from the rear is a direct result of the pinion angle. I'll drop the plan (for now) to add a DC shaft to the rear and add RoverTym adjusting trailing arms.

Any other input?

Again, I sincerely appreciate any and all feedback. It has helped tremendously already.
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