New Defender 110 Pickup - Few questions... - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old January 6th, 2017, 10:32 PM
Logic2
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Michael Nelson
1989 Defender 110 Pickup
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New Defender 110 Pickup - Few questions...

Hello,
New to the forum - I made an intro in the welcome section but thought I'd post up a couple of photos of the truck recently acquired. I'm new to Land Rovers but not necessarily new to off-road vehicles. I've restored a few Toyota FJ40s and currently have an old FJ55 (Iron Pig) but this is my first Land Rover and also first British Truck.

I'd appreciate any information you guys can give me on my truck.

I just ordered an owners manual as well as a service manual and I'm going through every inch of the truck, a little but every day.

Details:
1989 Land Rover Defender 110
Diesel (size / displacement is unknown at this time)
5 Speed
Right-Hand Drive
Just imported -

Mechanics:
Starts Easy
Runs Great
Drives & Brakes Great
---No "known" mechanical issues...

Minor issues that I am currently working on:

1.) Left Hand (Passenger Side) Tail Light (AND) Parking Light do not work.
I checked the fuses and they all check to be good.
Head Lights both work
Right-Hand (Driver Side) Lights all work.

2.) Heater and blower motor work, blower works great, just does not seem to blow very HOT.
----> Update<----
I just found a thread that suggests this is a common problem with several suggested fixes. I may go ahead and upgrade the blower motor with a GM blower motor which apparently a drop in (fit).


3.) It currently has a (single-cab) hard top but I'd like to know if it's possible to convert it to a full hardtop that covers the entire cab and bed area. If that's not possible, then I'd consider a soft top.

4.) I'm not familiar with the wheels on this rig, they may be OEM / Original but I may consider upgrading them to something nicer.

5.) I'll probably be adding a Radio.

6.) I'd like to add a larger rear bumper and upgraded receiver hitch and a larger front bumper that supports a winch.

7.) I'll be upgrading the fender flares.

8.) The Driver's side window does not roll all the way up. Rolls up and down ok without much resistance, but it stops about 1" from the top and it's at the point of breaking the roller handle if I put too much pressure on it. Seems to be a little crooked when near the top. I may have to remove the door panel and check out the track.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions or feedback on the topics above.
I'll be researching them on this forum as well as other places and working on them one by one.

Cheers

Mike
Denison, Tx
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  #2  
Old January 7th, 2017, 12:20 AM
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Luis Constantin
98 Disvovery 1 LE
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I'm not much into yellow and never been a fan of LR pickups but that is one sharp looking truck.

Welcome


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  #3  
Old January 7th, 2017, 12:49 AM
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KGH
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#1-'13 110SW,#2-'87 127,#3-'12 LR4
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Welcome to LR ownership.

Probably a lot more greasy and leaky than your prev. Toyotas!

Trigger warning! The below is opinion, and personal preferences.

Best advice I was given is to get the truck running full and all basic maintenance done first thing, then live with it and see what you like or don't like.

Seats look nice, get a console, you will like cup holders and storage.
Brush bar looks good too.
Does it have a spare? I think hood mount on RHD driving in LHD countries takes up too much vis. But you have the base bracket.

-Find a wiring diagram and chase down where the issue is.
-Flush/Bleed coolant system, heater may work better. You can also rebuilt heater box and port match the heater to firewall. The heaters pretty much suck anyway.
-Yes, add a van top. If/when you do this is a good time to do a "bulkhead removal bar", and to replace seal between windshield and bulkhead. Adding the door in back is easy. I have a 2 door utility, and recommend windows for visibility of surroundings. You can even order a kit to add safari windows to a hardtop if you desire.
-Wolf wheels. In white would look good.
-The factory cheap plastic dash radio mount is $100. Or get a console that fits a radio. Rear speakers can fit in panels that cover tail lamp wiring, or get MUDUK upgraded panels. DynaMat or otherwise soundproof the floors, inside doors, seatbox, etc and you may actually hear the radio.
-Rear bumper with reciever and a swing away spare tire carrier is good idea. Ensure it bolts to frame with brackets, not just crossmember.
-Larger eyebrows - one could easily fuck up here and end up looking like a Jeep or a 1986 Chevy 1500. Look at a lot of Defenders and see what looks good. For factory and factory-like, not a ton of options.
- Window diagrams can be helpful.

Have a look:
https://www.landroverworkshop.com/di...y-chassis/body

Also see AULRO and DEFENDER2 websites.
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  #4  
Old January 7th, 2017, 01:09 AM
Logic2
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Michael Nelson
1989 Defender 110 Pickup
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Denison, Tx
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Thank You Very Much ! Good feedback.

Yes I have what appears to be an original spare. White steel wheel.
Previous owner painted the truck a while back and didn't want to damage the paint so he put it in the bed.
I also have a set of brackets that look like it holds down the spare.

I'll start the look for a van top, radio & console.

Thanks Again ~
Mike
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  #5  
Old January 7th, 2017, 01:27 AM
gwmckee
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George
1994 NAS D90 #1919
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Hey Mike - welcome to Land Rover ownership! FWIW, I'd start with easy fixes first. Your light issue might be corrosion in the sockets or bad bulbs. I'd pull the bulbs and check the contacts. If they look good, I'd swap in the working bulbs and see if they work. Loose connections and bad grounds are often the cause of issues like these.

As for the blower motor, I just went through the same thing. Fan was blowing strong, just not hot (which really sucked as I drove five hours in 15 degree weather). I thought maybe I'd need to clean or replace the heater core but decided to check the flap on the heater box. Turns out is wasn't closing all the way when the lever on the dash was indicating closed. Essentially, the system was blowing mostly cold air from the intake on the wing (kind of like leaving your windows open while the furnace is running). I adjusted the cable and voila! Now I have more than enough heat If your fan is blowing strong, I'm not sure it's the problem. The fan simply moves the air. The air being hot or cold is another issue.
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  #6  
Old January 7th, 2017, 08:59 AM
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Mike & Carrie Wendt
1986 90 2.5NA
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Welcome to Defenders, our special brand of insanity.

If it's an original Rover diesel, it's 2.5L.

If the rocker arm cover has cast aluminum ribs on top, it's a turbocharged 200Tdi (still a 2.5L.). A very desirable engine.

If the rocker arm cover has no ribs, and no turbocharger, it's a 2.5NA. Not considered 'desirable' (and has many haters) but under powered (68 hp) can be reliable and fun. I've put over 40,000 miles on mine.

If the no rib rocker arm cover and a turbocharger, it's a 2.5L known as a 19J. Same basic engine as the 2.5NA but the turbo really doesn't add much power.

Several engine swap options but I say if it runs, drive it. Drive it enough to see if YOU enjoy it. If YOU enjoy it, keep it. Don't listen to the 2.5NA haters, judge for yourself.

Mike & Carrie
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  #7  
Old January 7th, 2017, 09:50 AM
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Zane
85/D90
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Hi Mike,

I own a 90 which I currently keep a cab top on. You will find options, especially soft tops to extend the cabin area but I would make sure you figure out heating and window first. The big advantage of the single cab top is that they are much easier to keep warm on cool days as there isn't much space inside.

That said, I would suggest holding off on the speaker until you feel confident about which top you plan on using on your 110. There's a lot of creative options out there, depending space available. I plan on just putting a small speaker (size of a jambox) in the dash cubby, but I doubt that'd fill a space any larger than the cab.

For window, and many other parts, I would recommend picking up The Land Rover 90 & 110 Defender Restoration Manual (I think author is Lindsay Porter). It may not always solve your problem but it can often steer you away from creating any bigger ones too. Certainly has for me.

I look forward to hearing/seeing what you decide to do with top and sound system.

Zane
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  #8  
Old January 7th, 2017, 06:33 PM
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Craig
Diesel
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Tire

You should have a round piece with a middle section bent away from round outside piece with two + holes to hold down the spare tire. On my 90 I have no problem seeing over that with seats not raised.
My PU came with speaker holes already in the back of the cab not recommended as they are holes to outside.
You will have to take the panel off the inside of the door to fix that window.
A good defender shop manual really helps all the important details are there.
My doors are on the list to be done also.
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  #9  
Old January 7th, 2017, 07:36 PM
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Andy
1999 D2, 1985 D100 Truggy & 1951 S1
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Lots of great feed back so far, another option you might want to consider is a king cab conversion, like this :

Land Rover Defender 110 Td5 King Cab : Churchill 4x4

But first, fix the little things & go enjoy it until you know 100% what you want...
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  #10  
Old January 8th, 2017, 12:26 PM
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Neill Thornton
1984 D90 300 Tdi / 1965 Series IIA
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As far as your rear lamps, checking the contacts for rust is a good start, the spring loaded soft plastic design is typical Lucas quality.

All of your rear lamps ground via the same ground lug (C813) but there should be a large multi-connector that joins all of the grounds from the lamps together. I would double check that everything looks good there.

If you have a test lamp or multimeter, remove the bulbs and put the positive probe on the spring loaded tab in the back of the socket, and then ground the black negative probe on the chassis somewhere. You should get around 12v. If you don't, then something more sinister is going on.

I would also highly recommend looking at the drop in replacement sealed LED lamps that are around. No more crappy contacts, and much brighter than stock.
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  #11  
Old January 8th, 2017, 09:24 PM
Logic2
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Michael Nelson
1989 Defender 110 Pickup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navydevildoc View Post
As far as your rear lamps, checking the contacts for rust is a good start, the spring loaded soft plastic design is typical Lucas quality.

All of your rear lamps ground via the same ground lug (C813) but there should be a large multi-connector that joins all of the grounds from the lamps together. I would double check that everything looks good there.

If you have a test lamp or multimeter, remove the bulbs and put the positive probe on the spring loaded tab in the back of the socket, and then ground the black negative probe on the chassis somewhere. You should get around 12v. If you don't, then something more sinister is going on.

I would also highly recommend looking at the drop in replacement sealed LED lamps that are around. No more crappy contacts, and much brighter than stock.

Thanks for your reply !

I tested the bulbs & voltage and found a problem at the fuse panel.

I just posted a separate thread detailing my finds with pics.

Summary: I found an issue with the +12v circuit for the Left Hand lights (not getting +12v)

THanks
Mike
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