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  #21  
Old October 14th, 2009, 07:00 PM
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barry f
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I think the shop on jefferson wont let you bring your own parts
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  #22  
Old October 14th, 2009, 11:38 PM
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OK finally got home. Tried to start the car again, no luck. The ignition is turning, Dash lights are coming on, the check engine light comes on but doesnt go off, and I can smell fuel. Im guessing from everyones advice its the silver relays? These are located behind the A/C unit correct (I have a 94)?

It stopped raining and supposed to be 90 degrees out tomorrow. What are the chances I can leave the truck outside and it will naturally dry and restart?
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  #23  
Old October 15th, 2009, 07:28 AM
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Tom
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disconnect battery for a few minutes to reset ECU and try again.
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  #24  
Old October 15th, 2009, 09:43 AM
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Chris Snyder
1994 D90 #614 | '07 L322 SC
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If you smell fuel, it's an ignition problem. Check your cap and rotor. Pull the plug wire off the coil and hear if you get a loud ZAP ZAP when you crank the motor.

Follow-up Post:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Abeer
It stopped raining and supposed to be 90 degrees out tomorrow. What are the chances I can leave the truck outside and it will naturally dry and restart?
It'll probably start... But wouldn't it be nice to find the problem so it won't happen again?
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  #25  
Old October 15th, 2009, 10:11 AM
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Mike Doligalski
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I am still putting my money on the cap and rotors too. I've had this same problem with the truck not starting when it's wet outside (not even necessarily raining, just damp outside)...

Do you hear the fuel pump come on for a few seconds when you turn the key? It should be a high-pitched noise coming from the rear passenger side. I would imagine it's working fine since you smell fuel.
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  #26  
Old October 15th, 2009, 11:25 AM
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Since you smell fuel, it is probably ignition. Pull off the cap and look for cracks and spray the inside with WD 40 and try starting again. When you try to start the car, put your foot on the gas pedal all the way to clean out the flooding of the motor.
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  #27  
Old October 15th, 2009, 01:22 PM
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Is the fuel pump a kind of high pitched almost electronic sound coming from the rear of the car? If so its definitely coming on.

So if we assume it is the cap and rotors. Will I have to replace these or will just cleaning and drying them do the trick?
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  #28  
Old October 15th, 2009, 02:30 PM
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Mike Doligalski
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Cleaning and drying may get it going now, but if the cap is cracked you'll run into the problem again until you replace. Just remember to buy genuine parts for this system. You may even be able to pick the parts up at a local dealership... just a little more expensive that way.

And yes, that sound is correct for the fuel pump.
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  #29  
Old October 15th, 2009, 02:34 PM
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If the cap and rotor do not work, next is the coil wire[s] (or connections at the coil) and then the ignition module.
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  #30  
Old October 15th, 2009, 04:16 PM
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Chris Snyder
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Do you have spark at the coil? If you do, you've narrowed it down to the cap or rotor causing the problem. Easy one person check if you just take the wire off the coil and crank the motor. You can't miss the arcs!
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  #31  
Old October 15th, 2009, 04:42 PM
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john
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How doe the cap and coil get wet from a strong drizzle? Wouldnt it be an ECU issue or is that only if the fuel pump doesnt work?
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  #32  
Old October 15th, 2009, 04:53 PM
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Condensation in the cap.
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  #33  
Old October 15th, 2009, 05:09 PM
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Will look into replacing everything today. Thanks for the help guys, I'll let you know what solves the issue.

On another note, you guys have been talking about different repair shops around LA but there hasn't been mention of names. Can you guys recommend / advise against using any shop? You can PM me if you don't want to tarnish anyone's name publicly.

Again, thanks for the help!
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  #34  
Old October 15th, 2009, 05:20 PM
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john
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Some names were mentioned but it didnt seem like there was a consensus. Ive always had good luck with 4 oaks garage in santa monica but some other members who shall remain nameless have not.
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  #35  
Old October 15th, 2009, 09:17 PM
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Quick update:

80 degrees in LA today so I left my car in the sun to see what happens. Just got home from work and it started first try with the gas pedal depressed and plume of black smoke from the exhaust. Everything seems to be fine now.

What do you guys do as a preventive measure to stop this from happening again? It seems the cap and rotor are pretty exposed in their location, what can I do to prevent them from getting moisture again?
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  #36  
Old October 15th, 2009, 09:21 PM
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Chris Snyder
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When they're in good working order it shouldn't happen at all...
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  #37  
Old October 16th, 2009, 09:35 AM
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Weldon Pundt
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It's just as Ron stated. Condensation... I would not just think it's cap only. This may seem nuts but get a spry bottle and fill it with water. Spry the hell out of the engine bay, mostly in the area of cap/wires/coil. My bet it will not start. Then use a hairdryer to dry the engine bay, bet it will start once it's dry. I've had this issue for many years. When living in Philly had the truck towed numerous times until the repair shop did just as I listed. Cap/wire were cracked! But before they did this it would show up and start with out an issue? Then it did it when moved to Charleston SC. At this time had to pay for new ECU. They also updated my coil/cap/wires. No problems since then. I'm still not sure if I really needed the new ECU?

The good news it's running again. When you replace the parts make sure you get OEM for CAP/Button. The cheap stuff will just fail again. GOOD LUCK...
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  #38  
Old October 16th, 2009, 10:49 AM
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The way to test if the wires are bad is, when it is running at night, go out there with a spray bottle of water and spray the wires, if you see blue arcs near the wires when you sprary, they are bad. I recommend the "booted coil wire" genuine ($50) and a set of magnecor 7mm wires ($60). A spare ignition module and silver relays and used ECU are good things to keep in the truck.
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  #39  
Old October 16th, 2009, 10:51 AM
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Andrew Najarian
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You guys keep saying genuine, but I thought I heard that LR had a problem with a batch or more of rotors and they were failing. I could have sworn that everyone was saying to stay away from Genuine ones a couple years ago.
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  #40  
Old October 16th, 2009, 11:00 AM
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Genuine CAP good. Aftermarket CAP bad. There were a batch of bad genuine rotors but I am 99% sure they have gone through the system.
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