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  #1  
Old February 26th, 2010, 02:49 PM
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New D-90 NAS owner Help

Hey all,

I have been in love with the defender since childhood and finally got my D90 SW last December, and as much as I'm sure it will make everyone here cringe, it is my daily driver and shares duties with my motorcycle, although I really don't have a commute.
I bought it with 70,000 miles on my 95' NAS sation wagon, and from the 2nd owner, I have all the maintenance records etc.

I wanted to know, as a Newbie to the Defender, what rec's and reminders anyone here has for me.

Thank you!
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  #2  
Old February 26th, 2010, 02:53 PM
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Check your oil cooler lines. Here read this. Do a quick search and you will find a lot of important info on this subject. Hopefully yours has been removed or upgraded. Hate to lose another Defender to something so simple. And welcome to Land Rover ownership, and we need pictures. Some of the guys on here may know or recognize your truck.

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...l+cooler+lines

http://www.defendersource.com/forum/...ead.php?t=9138
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  #3  
Old February 26th, 2010, 03:31 PM
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Change your transmission fluid to Redline MTL.

Do a full service (30k/60k/90k) and keep all the used ignition components in the truck as spares.

Lube all the hinges and especially the hood release mechanism on the slam panel.

Clean out your PCV system.

Buy two spare silver relays and keep it in your.

Buy a spare used ECU and keep it in your truck.

Buy a new ignition module and keep it in your truck.

Buy a new set of coolant hoses and keep them in your truck.

Buy a fire extinguisher and keep it in your truck.

Treat and abate any rust and spray waxoyl in the door frame and rear crossmember.

Replace the cross seals if they are leaking and clean out the oil pickup while you are in there (leak between oil pan and transmission).

Check and replace the ball joints (Tie Rod Ends or TREs in american).

Rebuild the hinges on the rear door.

Pull the sill plate off the rear tub and address corrosion and replace the screws with aluminium pop rivets.

Replace the frame with a galvanized one and replace the motor with a 300tdi.
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  #4  
Old February 26th, 2010, 03:41 PM
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Don't worry about using it as a daily driver. Around here we appreciate the trucks for what they are.... and that's a work truck designed to be used and driven. They aren't show trucks, so drive it and enjoy it.

But we really can't push it enough to do the oil line fix. Most other problems are annoying, burst oil lines can be serious. The good thing is that the fix is easy, with a lot of options of which direction to take, and you'll never have to worry about it again.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old February 26th, 2010, 06:59 PM
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Charles Galpin
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Welcome!

Yup driving it's a good thing. Change the oil lines if you haven't, check your fluids and do regular maintenance and in general just pay attention to it and you'll be fine. Search/ask here of course if you have any specific questions.
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  #6  
Old February 26th, 2010, 07:15 PM
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Michael Steil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilfij View Post
Change your transmission fluid to Redline MTL.

Do a full service (30k/60k/90k) and keep all the used ignition components in the truck as spares.

Lube all the hinges and especially the hood release mechanism on the slam panel.

Clean out your PCV system.

Buy two spare silver relays and keep it in your.

Buy a spare used ECU and keep it in your truck.

Buy a new ignition module and keep it in your truck.

Buy a new set of coolant hoses and keep them in your truck.

Buy a fire extinguisher and keep it in your truck.

Treat and abate any rust and spray waxoyl in the door frame and rear crossmember.

Replace the cross seals if they are leaking and clean out the oil pickup while you are in there (leak between oil pan and transmission).

Check and replace the ball joints (Tie Rod Ends or TREs in american).

Rebuild the hinges on the rear door.

Pull the sill plate off the rear tub and address corrosion and replace the screws with aluminium pop rivets.

Replace the frame with a galvanized one and replace the motor with a 300tdi.
Or just send it to ECR
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  #7  
Old February 26th, 2010, 08:09 PM
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BTW you are really close to the parts source

www.roversdownsouth.com
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  #8  
Old February 26th, 2010, 09:19 PM
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Don't feel bad about daily driving it. I bought mine at the end of last year with 60k miles to use as a daily driver. I drive it 70 miles a day except when it is bitter cold or the roads are extra salty.

Go through Ron's list and you should be good. Start with the oil cooler lines - mine are on order from ECR and I'll put them on the second they get here.
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  #9  
Old February 27th, 2010, 02:04 AM
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Adam Hairston
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Drive it and smile. Life is short.
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  #10  
Old February 27th, 2010, 12:00 PM
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Ron's got a great list there to start with. Driving it is great thing. The trucks don't age well if not driven regularly.
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  #11  
Old March 1st, 2010, 10:55 AM
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I it in to the local LR dealership today, and had them check out a leak of what looked like powersteering fluid and they quoted me $750 to replace the power steering lines. Is this ballpark and is it worth doing if the leak is still small?

------ Follow up post added March 1st, 2010 09:57 AM ------

Sorry. They also reccomended an alignmet because I have a small pull to the left and wanted 250. Can I have these things done somewhere other than the dealer or should I trust the dealership for all repairs?
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  #12  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:00 AM
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trust and LR dealers cannot be generally said in the same sentence
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  #13  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:05 AM
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They also want me to replace the clutch master cylinder. I'm in the showroom now BTW. They wanted 450. Roversdownsouth has them for 89. Can a good euro mechanic put this in? Or again do I have to leave it to them. It is indeed leaking down into the cab and clutch pedal.
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  #14  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:14 AM
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Clutch Master: A good mechanic/ independent shop should be able to do this just fine. There are plenty of threads on this board describing the whole procedure. Honestly, do it yourself if you've got a long evening to do it. Many people here say that it's a terrible job but it's honestly not that bad. The most time consuming thing is making sure that it is bleed correctly and adjusted to the right specs- not impossible for the amateur mechanic... i mean... i even did this on my own.

As far as dealers. Don't. At least, I wouldn't take my truck to most dealerships. 450 is a little high for something I would do on my own, but for dealer prices doesn't sound too bad to me.
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  #15  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:15 AM
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I'd take their recommendations and get a second opinion ...
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  #16  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:30 AM
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Thanks everyone. I think I will def get the clutch master cylinder done by someone else.
Any thoughts on if I should only let the dealer mess with the power steering lines?

------ Follow up post added March 1st, 2010 10:31 AM ------

Southern rovers doesn't have the PS lines for the NAS
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  #17  
Old March 1st, 2010, 11:31 AM
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Charles Galpin
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I don't think there is anything special about the power steering lines other than getting the right parts. The alignment can be done cheaper by anyone.
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  #18  
Old March 1st, 2010, 01:53 PM
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Mines a Daily Driver (been so for over a year now) - Enjoy and take the items on Evil's List in turn but do the oil lines at your first oppritunity.
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  #19  
Old March 1st, 2010, 02:57 PM
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you can order parts from loads of suppliers ... the one that seems to be currently taking most of my income is lrseries.com
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  #20  
Old March 1st, 2010, 03:29 PM
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I would not let the dealer touch it..... You or anyone with a wrench can change the power steering lines. Take it to the local tire/alignment shop. They will prob charge you about $85 for an alignment.

You never said.... are you mechanically inclined or declined????????
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