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  #101  
Old December 2nd, 2013, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sonoronos View Post
OK, this is good.



The only reason the ignition switch would spark is if there was a high current draw. Based on the size of the spark, you can tell what that connection is. If it was a big spark, then it was +12V hot to ground. If the white/black or white wires are shorted, then you will get a huge spark. If the red/brown (glow plugs?) are connected without use of a glow plug relay, you will get a huge spark. The red/white (starter relay) wires should never spark. The black mystery wire we will just ignore for now.


The best thing to do is to completely isolate the engine start/run components from the rest of the vehicle wiring.

My next step for you would be to disconnect the white/black, white, and red/brown wires from the ignition switch and see if it sparks again. Just completely disconnect everything but the fuel solenoid, 12V Hot, and the starter relay from the ignition switch.
The spark was on the brown wire which is on the #1 connector. It wasn't too big of a spark but there are scorch marks on the female spade- also it should be noted the spark happened after I switched the truck off then tried to start it quickly after.

I will have to try isolating the starting components tomorrow but thanks for all the help. I need to drive the truck from Ohio to MD next weekend and wanted to make sure I won't get stranded along the way
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  #102  
Old December 2nd, 2013, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
I need to drive the truck from Ohio to MD next weekend and wanted to make sure I won't get stranded along the way
You'll be wanting it fully sorted then!
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  #103  
Old December 2nd, 2013, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
You'll be wanting it fully sorted then!
It made it here fine aside from the lt77 acting up a bit in the heat (over 100 degrees on the drive). Fingers crossed I don't break down in West Virginia in the mountains...I don't think they'll find me until the spring thaw
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  #104  
Old December 3rd, 2013, 06:23 PM
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I couldn't replicate the problem today and it was starting fine. Fixed for now I guess
And thanks again everyone
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  #105  
Old December 4th, 2013, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
I couldn't replicate the problem today and it was starting fine. Fixed for now I guess
And thanks again everyone
It's not fixed, it's just not going wrong at the moment, there's a difference.
Fixed is when you find the errant part and throw it out or repair it properly.
It'll be back to cause trouble when you
a) most need the truck,
b) have least time to fix it.
That is the way with Land Rover gremlins.
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  #106  
Old December 4th, 2013, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeslandrover View Post
It's not fixed, it's just not going wrong at the moment, there's a difference.
Fixed is when you find the errant part and throw it out or repair it properly.
It'll be back to cause trouble when you
a) most need the truck,
b) have least time to fix it.
That is the way with Land Rover gremlins.
Completely agree. Should be an interesting trip to say the least...
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  #107  
Old December 4th, 2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by byrnecc View Post
Completely agree. Should be an interesting trip to say the least...
Good luck, keep us updated.
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  #108  
Old September 8th, 2015, 04:22 PM
Nitram
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Stupid question, but what is 4 on the picture? Is this some idle valve, can it be unscrewed and cleaned ?
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  #109  
Old September 8th, 2015, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitram View Post
Stupid question, but what is 4 on the picture? Is this some idle valve, can it be unscrewed and cleaned ?
Fuel cut off switch?
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  #110  
Old September 9th, 2015, 02:08 AM
Greg S
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Sorry, but 4 is not the fuel shut off valve. For that you have to look at number 9.
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  #111  
Old September 9th, 2015, 02:36 AM
Nitram
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Thanks for your thoughts / suggestions. I read somewhere that is has to do with idling and that it can collect dirt. My idling was very high, removed it, cleaned it, and idle was after that / is fine (very much lower). But now, as it is fine and I give gas, the throttle response is uneven - it is almost dangerous in second gear as there is response, but at a certain point a sudden increase in response. Maybe dirt has moved somewhere else in the pump / system, or maybe I need to adjust the bolt somewhat (the bolt is hollow with a small hole so that either air or fuel can pass through it), or maybe the idling has been high for so long that some valve somewhere has accumulated dirt at this "higher" point preventing it from responding smoothly.

There is no schematic in the service manual identifying itfor some reason, and I cannot find it on the web...
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  #112  
Old September 9th, 2015, 07:44 AM
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I didn't read all 6 pages, but have you checked the accelerator linkage to insure the cable is not binding at a point and then letting resistance go and moving a "far sweep".
Do you get full movement?
Get a proper length piece of wood to hold the petal all the way down and then check to see it the pump lever will move or is hard against the stop.

The only think I do with old 2.5 12 and 19J engines is attach an engine crane to them and put a different diesel in it's place that has more power.
The reason I am mentioning this is it will cost you a substantial investment to get your IP rebuilt if in fact the springs inside are binding and then letting go and that investment may be better spent getting your powerless lump replaced with something more powerful.
It will transform the vehicle into something fun and useful.

As far as dirt is concerned, I am always perplexed why owners don't invest in a sedimenter that will trap 99% of the water and particulate before it gets to the fuel filter.
Some of it will get through the old style sandwich filter and ruin the IP and injectors.

No name mentioned:
I sold a set 300TDI injectors to a board member who claimed they failed.
No problem, sent him a second set, they failed.
Sent both sets to Blue Ridge Diesel.
They found the injectors were clogged with trash in the fuel and commented, it's a wonder the IP isn't ruined.
I asked the member do you have a sedimenter.
The answer was yes I do, but I haven't installed it yet.
My reply: "how long have you had it?".
A year or so was the answer.
A sedimenter, 12V fuel pump and OEM spin-on filter will solve most fuel system problems before they happen for about $250.
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  #113  
Old September 9th, 2015, 10:54 AM
Nitram
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Thank you. I moved the arm on the pump by hand slowly - it responds, then at a specific point there is the surge in response. So it can't be the linkage..

This problem appeared after I removed and cleaned bolt nr. 4.. (please see pic above) as I read somewhere that has to do with the idle and that it may need cleaning. Now I cannot find the page and for some reason no schematic explaining the function of 4. Is it the idle jet ? (that needs cleaning + is it the to be adjusted when refitted..?).

Any input is greatly appreciated. Any mechanic in the UK probably knows. But I am not in the UK..
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  #114  
Old September 9th, 2015, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitram View Post
Thank you. I moved the arm on the pump by hand slowly - it responds, then at a specific point there is the surge in response. So it can't be the linkage..

This problem appeared after I removed and cleaned bolt nr. 4.. (please see pic above) as I read somewhere that has to do with the idle and that it may need cleaning. Now I cannot find the page and for some reason no schematic explaining the function of 4. Is it the idle jet ? (that needs cleaning + is it the to be adjusted when refitted..?).

Any input is greatly appreciated. Any mechanic in the UK probably knows. But I am not in the UK..
I am no expert on the 2.5 N/A pump, but bolt #4 looks like it is adjustable regarding how much it will screw in and when in a position can be locked in place.
It would be trial and error, but perhaps you can gradually turn it one way and then the other to determine the overall effect.
Then once you learn the "lay of the adjustment land" you will then be able to tune the bolt with your adjustments.
Someone with more experience adjusting this IP may provide better advice...
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RDavisinVA

Uncle "Richard" Douglas has a Land Rover with big wheels that never gets stuck... until he breaks something so it won't go. Uncle Douglas always breaks something. - Anna Crowther at the Conclave 2012 (AKA Carburetor Neck)

"What's with this death wobble, Uncle Douglas, I can't keep it in 1 lane?"
UD: "Just Power through it man!"
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  #115  
Old September 9th, 2015, 01:20 PM
Nitram
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Thanks. I agree, it looks adjustable, but as I recall the whole thing came out and the upper part seemed fixed. I am tempted to turn it like you suggest, but I would like to find out a bit more before I fiddle with it further...

I will post when I find a solution. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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  #116  
Old September 14th, 2015, 10:43 AM
Nitram
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I fixed the problem.

It appears that 4 takes care of the feed-pressure and influences the piston that decides the idle/throttle. The bolt (4) is made up by two sections. I unscrewed the whole bolt again. Then I locked the bolt with a spanner and carefully loosened and unscrewed the top section of the bolt. Then turn it (the whole bolt) upside down and a small spring will fall out. Once cleaned, I noticed that there is a steel marble inside the bolt (the spring puts pressure on the marble depending on the adjustable top top section). I now understand that this marble must move freely inside (if it is stuck you will not hear it move at all)

After cleaning and blowing with air (simply putting my mouth to it -- mm..the taste of diesel in the morning) while covering the small holes on the bolt in an alternating order, I put back the spring, screwed back the top section, and put the whole bolt back on the pump. It was a bit sticky first (the throttle) but now once air was removed (I assume), it works like new. When I bought this defender years ago, the marble must have been stuck in a "high" position. The first time I unscrewed and cleaned it, it must have stuck in a low position. Now it moves / is really clean. This saved me some cash and all the trouble of removing the pump and have it sent somewhere.

I think this could be pretty useful information for anyone with the n a 2.5 experiencing a sticky throttle / low / high idling. Maybe cleaning 4 and making sure that the marble is moving freely is a good idea before adjusting the idling with the screws on top of the pump.

Btw. With the whole bolt removed I also turned the engine for a sec at the time a few times (with the key but turning off before it showed any sign of starting) with the hope of removing any dirt stuck in the hole where the bolt sits.
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