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  #1  
Old July 27th, 2005, 05:22 PM
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michael15
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Mike Schlueter
1995 Red D-90
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Need lots of help (several subjects)

Sorry to post this way - I could either post one message with a lot of questions or numerous single posts.
I took a shot with the first choice!

Here goes! I am sort of a new D-90 owner. I have a 1995 soft top Red. Several things puzzle me.

(1) In 5th gear at around 70+ mph I have NO power (torque? Pull? Accel?) . I am sure the D-90 ain't built for 70+ but thought maybe it is a mechanical problem and I could fix it.

(2) How many miles can I reasonably expect my engine and transmission to last? I had to replace the transfer case/box (at 90K) and wasn't happy about it.

(3) Anyone know of a way I can be SURE my d-90 won't overheat? Is there technology out there that allows me to idol my car with the AC running in the Sahara desert?

(4) The spare tire on the back of the truck seems crooked to me. I appears as though someone hit something with the bottom of the tire and bent the "rack" inward at the bottom. (Does this make sense?) Not sure if it is designed this way or if mine is bent?

(5) My blinkers don't turn off unless I turn the wheel nearly as far as it turns and then back to straight. Is this normal? Can I fix it?

(6) What kind of RPM is OK to run this motor at long distance? I assume the answer is as low as you can and still go? I get to around 3000 rmp and shift. Is it bad to run it at 3500? Like I said earlier. With no power in 5th gear I find myself on the highway shifting back into 4th with every little hill.

I KNOW I KNOW - I AM A ROOKIE. I feel like an idiot but I know I'll never get the correct answers just experimenting.

thanks a ton for all your help!

Mike
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  #2  
Old July 27th, 2005, 05:38 PM
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Bradlee Duncan
'94 White and '95 Red D's
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It's OK Mike, the way you learn is by asking questions! Here's my best shot at some of the questions:

1) Our Defenders have never had any pull above 70 mph (ours could have probs to, lol). But if you think about it, our D-90's aren't quite a sleek and aerodynamic as my audi a4 (now that pulls at 70!) so I think that is one of the main factors and it's normal in my book.

2) Very hard question to answer because there are so many variables, especially because it sounds like you are not the first owner. With good preventative maintenance, I don't see why they can't last 150,000 mi or more. Sure you'll go through clutches and that sort of thing, but our 94 is at 100,000 right now and still runs great (besides the fact that it's in pieces for the frame swap, lol) at leas the engine and transmission run great!

3) Do some searches on overheating and a lot of stuff will turn up. Some things are recoring the radiator, adding another core to it, adding a dual electric fan setup, etc. Has been discussed many times before.

4) Our stock tire rack kind of sags a little too, but not tons. Got any pics of what it looks like?

5) Never noticed that problem before, maybe I'm just used to it. Hopefully somone else will be able to answer this.

6) It has been said before that the rover V8's "like the revs." I remember reading that in some article somewhere. You should be fine running at 3000 rpm on the freeway. It's fine if you have to downshift for short periods also, no harm done.

Hope that helps you out a little bit, I'm sure others will post too and give you more info than I can give you. Oh yeah, and one more thing... welcome to the boards!
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  #3  
Old July 27th, 2005, 05:42 PM
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Phil
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1) Stay under 70 mph is my best advice. After I bought my truck, I installed a Borla exhaust, K & N air filter, changed the fuel filter, plugs, and started using premium gas. It made a noticeable difference. More pep and it ran smoother.

2) don't know.

3) good question.

4) I just replaced my stock tire carrier with an aftermarket one. If yours is damaged, I can sell you my old one. e-mail me if you're interested.

5) My blinkers turn off as soon as I turn the wheel the slightest bit, so I have the opposite problem.
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  #4  
Old July 27th, 2005, 05:47 PM
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Hans Haase
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Lets see if I can help on this one at all.

1.) Me neither, once I get to 65-70mph, it takes a while to get much faster. Not too concerned though. After all, it is a heavy brick with little consideration to aerodynamics.

2.) Why did you have to replace it? Somtimes things happen and parts break, but as long as the fluids have been kept up to level it shouldn't wear out that fast.

3.) We're working on that one, and it seems to be a stinker of a problem sometimes. General consensus is a custom 4-core radiator and a Flex-a-lite 210/220 fan set. I'm also going to be adding an upgraded oil cooler as well, though I haven't figured out a method to vent the engine compartment to my standards, it really retains a lot of heat under there.

4.) Possible that it IS bent. Best to compare against a known good one to see whats different.

5.) Mine too. The bushings might also be wearing inside the steering column. A new switch assembly runs around $100. Up to you on that one, personally I'd just flip the switch myself and save the cash.

6.) I get to around 4000-4500 sometimes if I need to catch up with traffic, but only for a few seconds until I shift. I normally run around 2500-3000rpm, 3500 is a bit higher than I'd like to go for long amounts of time, but not something that will bust the engine.

-Hans
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  #5  
Old July 27th, 2005, 10:23 PM
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1. Nothing you can do short of engine transplant of dropping it out of a plane.
2. That is odd about the t-case. Those are the only bright spot in the rover drivetrain. As to the engine, some people on this site are a little delusional about how long they last. Aside from out of the norm cases, these engines start to need significant repair around the 100 to 120k milage. Be ready.
3. No, but the cooling issues have to do with an unacceptable radiator size/design. You can get a custom 4core at NAPA for a good price. Other than that, get a water temp guage and watch it.
4. Might be bent, not sure.
5. You can fix this. Take off your steering wheel and pull the plastic ring out from your steering shaft. This is what flips your turn signals. If it is worn, replace it, if not, you can jerry-rig the back of your steering wheel to have it hit the plastic part sooner.
6. Just let the rev limiter tell you when to shift
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  #6  
Old July 27th, 2005, 11:45 PM
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evilfij
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1. It should pull at 70. Do a full tune up, check timing, make sure the vacuum advance actually works, O2s switch, check compression.
2. With good maintiance and slow shifting nothing should ever break. Head gaskets should go ~100k, which you should switch to composite and never touch again. Alternators are good for 100k, water pumps same. P/S pumps last indefinately if you do not turn while stopped. AC compressors are pretty robust. Replace all cooler lines ~10 years or when leaking.
3. Install a new radiator (this is the #1 issue, buy a new genuine stock one), make sure the WP is tight, the coupler works should be no issues.
4. probably rear ended
5. I don't know
6. I tend to run mine HARD 5k shifts, will run in 4th at 100mph 4k if I am in a hurry for cruising speed up hill. My disco I ran 3rd gear at 5k towing way too, much up and down hills. If the engine is in good shape, gets good oil (mobile One 0w40) should be no issue.
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  #7  
Old July 28th, 2005, 02:09 PM
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I drive mine allmost everyday, hard and fast !!!!!
I been going 75 and sometimes 80 mph( must be the german in me) with no proplem
other then wind resistance and watching the gasguage wander rapidley to the left..
I am a new D90 owner aswell... had it since past nov, and love it.
I you're truck is overheating, it could be anything from the temp gage/ switch, to
gasket-seal failure... (exhuast fumes in you're coolant )
How long had you had the truck....did you have it inspected before buying !?
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  #8  
Old July 28th, 2005, 02:51 PM
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Scott
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Quote:
Originally Posted by michael15
(2) How many miles can I reasonably expect my engine and transmission to last? I had to replace the transfer case/box (at 90K) and wasn't happy about it.

(3) Anyone know of a way I can be SURE my d-90 won't overheat? Is there technology out there that allows me to idol my car with the AC running in the Sahara desert?
2. depends on maintenance. Well maintained components should last a long time. Non-maintained components will wear out quickly.

3. I'll add one thing. Flush the cooling system - frequently. Manual states every year or every two years (dont remember which). And double check that the coolant you use is aluminium compatible.
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  #9  
Old July 28th, 2005, 04:16 PM
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Matt Wunderle
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I run my at 75 to 85 on the freeway with no problem. Takes some time getting there and sucks on the hills but still goes faast. I just took the 90 on a white water camping trip and had to drive 4+ hours on freeway to get there. Had no problem maintaining 75 the whole time.

Matt...
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  #10  
Old July 29th, 2005, 12:14 AM
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m j
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(1) Does it feel like it cuts out (rev limiter)? This happened to me when I changed the diff gears to 4.11s.... Put in a disco eprom and she cruises at 75-80.

(2) Keep up with regular maintenace. Should last many-a miles. Very odd about your t-case... PO probably shifted into low going 30 or soemthing...

(3) I second the four-core radiator. This dramatically helped almost solved my problem. Water pump was the other (bearing was shot). Or you could always run without the hood.... the heat build up under there is killer!!!

(5) I've got the opposite problem with one side... Let me know if you fix it!!

(6) In 5th I cruise about about 3000. when I hit a hill or mountain pass.... shifting all the time.

Better to ask now.... pretty soon you'll know your truck inside and out! Good luck!!!
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  #11  
Old July 29th, 2005, 04:26 PM
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Joe Pfeiffer
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I run my 97 at 75-80 all the time. I drove from NoCal to SoCal at 80 the entire way with no problems.

I try to stay around 3000 RPM's but on hills I will downshift to 3rd and run it up to 4000 to maintain speed. Haven't had any issues yet.
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  #12  
Old July 30th, 2005, 07:34 AM
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Michael Heffernan
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My Mechanic...an ex Land /rover tech told me the D-90's do have a fuel cut off/rev limiter..he is in Holliston, MA Alan at Cityside garage...he services rovers from all over the east coast and he is honest...my O2 snsors were bad and he came in at 5:30am to change them so I could be to work on time ....may be worth a call and possibly at trip up for piece of mind.

My motor has 135,000 and runs sounds great...so far

Mike
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  #13  
Old July 30th, 2005, 11:53 AM
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#5 Take the wheel off and rotate the plastic ring which I think is blue 180 deg... then put the wheel back on and try it. If that does not fix it, the ring might be worn out.
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  #14  
Old August 8th, 2005, 10:55 PM
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Mike Schlueter
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You guys are great - thanks a lot.

I run at 80+ plenty. I just don't have the pull on the hills. Sounds like this is normal.

I am still concerned about the miles. I am at about 95K and have nightmares about the engine or tranny going out. I don't need another $3000 bill.

QUESTION: (yes another - sorry) Any idea what it would cost to put in the "four core radiator"???


Again - Thanks!
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  #15  
Old August 9th, 2005, 10:22 AM
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You can get a nice one custom made at NAPA for around $250 and drop it in yourself.
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Old August 9th, 2005, 01:35 PM
artm
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Arthur Maravelis
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Wondering...if they can make a radiator for $250 shouldn't an equally sized intercooler cost less? I'm looking to have one made like Allard's in the UK.
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  #17  
Old August 9th, 2005, 09:51 PM
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I don't know. Similar part, but I have not had one made there. My guess is no, with how expensive intercoolers are. If you are going for a big one up front, I can help you out with one that is better than Allard for cheaper, made here. Still expensive though...
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  #18  
Old August 9th, 2005, 10:07 PM
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Arthur Maravelis
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Well, go on Dave. I'm fitting it in a 100 with AC. I've come across a couple of places but it's still over $500!
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