Need help with heater blower motor! - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 10th, 2007, 04:21 PM
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jason
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Need help with heater blower motor!

Hey guys,

First I did a search and was able to use that info to find some things to check but none fit my problem.

Now here is my problem. The blower only works on low. when i set it to high it NOTHING.

I have checked all the fuses associated with heater and none are blown.

I checked power to the conector over by the heater box

I have power on the purple/green wire

I have power on the green/yellow wire when it is on high

I have power to the other side of the connector going out.

I heard there is a resistor that could be bad, but its my understanding that the resistor makes the blower work on slow, and if it was bad, I would have the high setting.

I looked at the switch in the cab and all the connectors are connected to the switch. How would I check to see if the switch is bad? or judging by info is it definetly the switch ?

Could the blower motor be fubar? I would think that if it works on low, then high should work since it means it is getting power just not an adjusted amount for high.


Please help! I live in NH and its getting cold!, and my wife is losing fatih in me and my 34k truck.

Jason
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  #2  
Old October 10th, 2007, 04:27 PM
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heater lever not going down far enough to make a connection
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  #3  
Old October 10th, 2007, 04:29 PM
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jason
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I though of that to. I pulled the switch out and pushedit all the way down. It use to work up until yesterday, now its a no go !
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  #4  
Old October 11th, 2007, 08:05 AM
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jason
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jeff could you tell me how to do that. i have no idea how.


also, since the switch sends power to the connector when it is in high, does that still seem like a bad switch ?




Jason
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  #5  
Old October 11th, 2007, 05:11 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefighter2904
jeff could you tell me how to do that. i have no idea how.


also, since the switch sends power to the connector when it is in high, does that still seem like a bad switch ?




Jason
Unplug the switch, use an ohmmeter and see if you have continuity (i.e. the needle is not stuck on infinite or a digital display shows " --- ") between input and output terminals.
Repeat for each position.
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  #6  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:14 PM
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so if i pull the switch out, i should just stick the test light to the 3 wires that the switch attached too? and make sure they all light up ?


I dont have a multimeter, so a test light will have to be what i use.


I know when i move the switch to the different positions with wires attached, it sends power to the connectorthat plugs into the blower motor. in both positions it send power to the connector.

I stuck the test light on the other side of the connector and power is flowing through.

As soon as I hear back from you on how to test the switch, I will report back.


Jason
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  #7  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:40 PM
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Andrew Najarian
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Well, if you have power at the motor from the low speed setting and the high speed setting then the switch must be functioning correctly right?

The question then becomes where does that power go, ie. how does the wiring/motor function after this point. Unfortunately I don't have a wiring schematic for the system in front of me, but it seems to me that testing the switch is a waste of time if you already know you have power downstream of the switch in both positions.

How many wires are going directly to the blower motor? 3? 4?
Let us know and hopefully we can figure this out.

Does anyone have the wiring schematics in front of them or know first hand what wires there are and what readings he should be finding?
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  #8  
Old October 11th, 2007, 06:59 PM
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how far from methuen are you Jason, maybe bring it down sat and see if you have it wired the same as mine
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  #9  
Old October 11th, 2007, 07:22 PM
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hey jimmy,


I am about 30 35 minutes from methuen. I have to play soldier this weekend so that is out! but maybe soon.

Id love to get a look at your bar! its exactly what I am doing down stairs at my house


Now back on subject. I have power to the connector that plugs into the resistor. from there it goes directly into the motor. everything lights up.

This all worked until I fixed some wiring in the harness that was burnt. But I never touched any of this wiring.

when I wiggled the connector the motor came on, then it just stopped never to run high speed again.


Jason
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  #10  
Old October 11th, 2007, 07:30 PM
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Tell me something...do you have voltage to the low and high setting wires all the time? I just read somewhere that defenders use a switched earth setup. If that is correct, you should always have voltage at two wires, and my guess is that there are two grounds that are switched. It may be a two stage motor and you aren't receiving the ground for the second stage.

I'm kind of shooting from the hip here, isn't there anyone out here who has worked on these blower motors at all?
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  #11  
Old October 11th, 2007, 07:41 PM
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when the switch is on the off position there is no power to the connector,


when i set it to low, one of the pins lights up, when i set it to high , 2 of the pins light up.


I thought for sure someone must have had this problem before.


Jason
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  #12  
Old October 11th, 2007, 07:55 PM
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Ok, then the info I found online must have been wrong and it is in fact the +switched. I think we can say that your switch is working and if there is only one ground wire it must be good b/c it operates in low. Also, the resistor must be good b/c a)the low setting is the one that would most likely fail and b)you have power from both wires.

So...didn't you say it worked once when you wiggled it or touched it? Maybe we are just dealing with a poor connection either inside the motor or at the connector itself. Try pulling the connector apart and seeing if the terminal is loose. Also, I would take some electrical contact cleaner and wire brush to the terminals and even put a little dielectric grease on before reinstalling and see if that helps.
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  #13  
Old October 11th, 2007, 08:27 PM
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i though maybe where the 2 connectors were might need to be cleaned or something. can you use white lithium grease in place of dielectric? I have not been ablt to find it.

the connectors do appear to be clean, with no corossion. I wonder if taking them apart to fix wiring may have screwed them up.

I wish I could get at the wiring where it goes into the blower motor, but that entail pullling the whole thing out. and I dont have a place to do that

not to mention, Im not sure that would even help.


Jason
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  #14  
Old October 11th, 2007, 10:43 PM
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Pull it apart where you can see the connector. You don't need the grease, it just helps prevent future corrosion really. If you can't find it I wouldn't substitute white lithium I would just put it back together without it and try to find some later. I put a little dab on every connection I take apart just for the added peace of mind.
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  #15  
Old October 12th, 2007, 03:15 PM
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just been reading somewhere that on a series the dash switch switches the live, on a defender it switches the earth, if thats the case you would be getting live at the terminals. take another look at your switch to make sure you getting contact when lever is fully down
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  #16  
Old October 12th, 2007, 03:58 PM
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jimmy the dash is all apart and i was able to really push the switch down and still nothing.



jasin
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  #17  
Old October 12th, 2007, 04:04 PM
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try pushing the copper connections together when its down
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Old October 12th, 2007, 04:06 PM
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i pulled all the wire off, cleaned the copper parts on the switch with some emery cloth and pushed them back on, still no luck.


It dosnt make any sense. I can spin the motor by hand so I know its not bound up.


Jason
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  #19  
Old October 12th, 2007, 04:53 PM
MonLand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firefighter2904
i pulled all the wire off, cleaned the copper parts on the switch with some emery cloth and pushed them back on, still no luck.

It dosnt make any sense. I can spin the motor by hand so I know its not bound up.
Jason

Is your truck a '97 as your info shows? If so, I'll check the wiring diagram.
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it is not hoarding it is selective collecting
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  #20  
Old October 12th, 2007, 05:11 PM
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yes it is a 1997
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