Need help getting roll cage OFF vehicle ;) - Defender Source
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  #1  
Old October 4th, 2015, 10:39 PM
nickybee
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Nick Bicanic
1986/D90
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Need help getting roll cage OFF vehicle ;)

Ok - so I need to transport my D90 to a mechanic's place to do the engine swap (I live in CA - hence the engine swap requirement to do registration)

unfortunately there's a height limitation on the transport vehicle so I have to remove the Wolf Roll cage that PA Blanchard had installed on my 1986 ex-MoD D90 before shipping it.

I assumed it would be fairly easy - and it was (basically just a bunch of 17mm nuts with lock nuts) - right up until the last frame component.

Check out the three images...


This shows you how far I've got - back hoop is out, the horizontal bars are out as are the diagonal support bars



I have removed the bolts from both front bases of the front hoop. (this are the standard 17mm bolts with the lock nuts at the back)

http://www.never.com/eo/defender_front_to_frame.jpg

I have also removed the 13mm bolts from that attach the top of the door frame that connects to to the front windscreen assembly

At this point I assumed I could just lift it off easily - but it won't move...as in - it won't move at all.

I've tried banging it backwards and forwards with a hammer (I hammered via a piece of wood so I didn't damage it). I tried banging it upwards from the bottom of the bases in case it was jammed "onto" something

It doesn't seem to be attached anywhere else - but I have no idea what else to try...

Any suggestions (before I tie it to a pole or giant tree...and see what happens...)

Thanks guys - instinct tells me that it's jammed onto something so I'd have to lift it off first...but I have no idea how deep it could be jammed...also...my instincts could be WAY wrong

Nick
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  #2  
Old October 4th, 2015, 11:23 PM
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Brewie212
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Brian Kandefer
1957 107 wagon, 94 arles St, 101 FC
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Check the brackets in the tub to make sure that it's not spot welded. If not, you need to go up with it not back and forth. Try kroil or PB blaster around the internal support brackets.
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  #3  
Old October 4th, 2015, 11:26 PM
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One Ten
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Sam
1994 NAS SW
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There's about 4 inches of steel tube you can't see that extends beyond the cage and slides into the tubing underneath. It's most likely rusted in place. Try to get some WD40 in the tube below and spray the heck out of it. Wait 15 min, then get a high lift jack or a floor jack and a 2x4 under it and put some upwards pressure on it while smacking it upwards with a large dead blow mallet. It will come, it just needs a lot of persuasion
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  #4  
Old October 4th, 2015, 11:37 PM
nickybee
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Nick Bicanic
1986/D90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
There's about 4 inches of steel tube you can't see that extends beyond the cage and slides into the tubing underneath. It's most likely rusted in place. Try to get some WD40 in the tube below and spray the heck out of it. Wait 15 min, then get a high lift jack or a floor jack and a 2x4 under it and put some upwards pressure on it while smacking it upwards with a large dead blow mallet. It will come, it just needs a lot of persuasion
aha. ok. I tried the 2x4 plus smacking it upwards - it didn't budge...
I did not try the high lift jack to "hold" it up while smacking...

Because I don't have a high lift jack...yet ;(

I'll keep fiddling with it

Thanks guys

------ Follow up post added October 4th, 2015 10:38 PM ------

Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
There's about 4 inches of steel tube you can't see that extends beyond the cage and slides into the tubing underneath. It's most likely rusted in place. Try to get some WD40 in the tube below and spray the heck out of it. Wait 15 min, then get a high lift jack or a floor jack and a 2x4 under it and put some upwards pressure on it while smacking it upwards with a large dead blow mallet. It will come, it just needs a lot of persuasion
Just to be clear - you mean put the jack on the ground and then put the 2x4 between the jack and the lip of the roll cage base (where the bolts where)

Won't that bend the lip? (that's what happened when I tried to pry it a little with a pry bar)
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  #5  
Old October 5th, 2015, 01:27 AM
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One Ten
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Sam
1994 NAS SW
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i would put the floor jack in the bed of the truck (on some plywood) and put upward pressure as close to the vertical part of the roll bar as possible while you bang on that side, then go to the other side. Probably have to go back and forth a few times. Get a lot of WD or PB blaster in there and let it soak. Don't skip this step, it will help with the rust in here. I've had some that seem like there was still some sort of bolt still in there somewhere and it was just the rust in the sleeve. And yes, be careful of that lip, it can bend. You may be able to get a pry bar in there and help a bit but be very careful.
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  #6  
Old October 5th, 2015, 01:30 AM
nickybee
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Nick Bicanic
1986/D90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by One Ten View Post
i would put the floor jack in the bed of the truck (on some plywood) and put upward pressure as close to the vertical part of the roll bar as possible while you bang on that side, then go to the other side. Probably have to go back and forth a few times. Get a lot of WD or PB blaster in there and let it soak. Don't skip this step, it will help with the rust in here. I've had some that seem like there was still some sort of bolt still in there somewhere and it was just the rust in the sleeve. And yes, be careful of that lip, it can bend. You may be able to get a pry bar in there and help a bit but be very careful.
ok so basically - just keep pulling it upwards...

I got it. Super lo-tech - yet super annoying
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  #7  
Old October 5th, 2015, 05:27 PM
nickybee
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Nick Bicanic
1986/D90
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Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Venice, CA, USA
Posts: 28
it's OUT !!!! thanks everyone for the help

Turns out there was no spot weld.
It was just jammed in there pretty solid - but lots (and lots - and then MORE) WD-40 and copious quantities of hammering with a large rubber mallet - got it to move.

Once it started moving it was just a question of hammering one end and then the other until it popped out. (interestingly it was ever so slightly harder to hammer on the driver's side - mine is a RHD - because of the diagonal support strut) but overall worked well...

Defender is now on its way to engine swap
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